Yes I never they say didn't Kevin. As we discussed at the very beginning, you should not have to pry the pads out as you did. Also cleaning the pins up and making sure that everything moves easily is key for your pads to clamp down evenly. I have no experience with those modified version of your pads you purchased, but that design might be part of the issue. I myself would have never went that route. I was planning to go with the hawk pads I showed you earlier when the time comes. They are proven to be quiet and create very little dust. If you cleaned up everything and the pads can move freely, that should fix the uneven wear. Unless you have a caliper problem that is. I suggested that you compress your pistons 1 by one and see if any have resistance. You hadn't mentioned anything about that so I am assuming it was all good.

 

I just removed every pads, compressed the pistons, and swapped pad sides

 

love hawk products!

 

So the metallic sound is going, but the squeal when braking while the car is rolling backwards is present again

 

I just took all the pads off, cleaned the surfaces that touch, and greased the pins. Hopefully this fixes it.

 

if not it's likely a pad material (compound) is the issue. make sure you clean up the discs as well. you need the mating surfaces to be free of rust or imperfections

 

Tracked cars use single pads over the padlets quite often and without issue.

The pins should be greased, but also the collars should be free to rotate. The collars help reduce pad squeal.

The 'shims' you keep referring to are anti-rattle clips, also designed to reduce pad noises and should have a small spot of grease where the pad contacts the clip.

The pad itself should have some 'play' in it, i.e., not fit tight or snug with the pins installed and the puck compressed into the caliper. If they don't, they are probably binding somewhere. I had this issue with a single padlet from one of the aftermarket manufacturers and couldn't tell if it was the pad itself or a fault with the caliper. I tried a different padlet in the same spot which fit fine so I filed the offending padlet to fit. No issues since. This was on a set of race pads which get very hot during track events and squeal terribly when driven on the street.

 

The pads are quite snug when the anti rattle clips are installed.

 

I sanded the pads to get that uneven wear off as well, yet the noise is prevalent, usually when the car is cold

 

They're making even more noise than before now...ugh lol

 

Was the pad material really shinny and smooth when you took them off to sand?

 

I suspect the pads may be dragging on the rotor. My padlets, with the puck(s) pushed back into the calipers, fit just a little loose, ie, you can wiggle them a bit which means they are free to ride on the pins without binding.

Try removing the two center pins (there are 4 the pad rides on, correct?) and push the pucks back to see if the pad will "float" on the pins. Seems to me there should be a little play such that the pad can easily slide on the pins.

You may also want to try your old padlets for fit and duplicate that fit with the single pad.

 

Most of the of was smooth when I sanded them. But if you look in the pictures, near the top was rough and dull, so I sanded them.

 

Where you driving hard on these pads? If so your problem may be you glazed them over IE over heated them that's why you may have the noise issue.

 

Nope, haven't driven them hard at all. The car hasn't even seen over 60 MPH since they were put on. It's only street driven.

 

Honestly at this point, rather than doing it another 5 times (poor you) get a shop to take off the absolute minimum off the docs to give them a clean surface and get a set of hawk pads and call it a day. Stick with the original "padlets" design. That's what I'd do. I'm a mechanic and despise working on my cars, I do it enough, I'd want to break it buy now lolol.

 

Haha tell me about it! I was thinking of sanding the rotors with Emory cloth to get off what I can.

 

i just figure on a brake lathe they will come out perfect and you can get rid of your Tylenol/Advil subscription lol.

 

I do that if I'm changing pads from different manufacturers. The rotors are actually pretty soft. Use 80 grit aluminum oxide paper and used compressed air to get the sand in dust off. The cross hatch pattern will help set the pads. Really though, you should first make sure the pads move freely otherwise you'll be wasting your time withe sanding.

 

I just don't really have the time to put the car on stands and remove the rotors to have a shop do it right now.

I've taken the pads out and greased the pins (which has led to more noise surprisingly). I'm not sure what else I could do to make sure the pads can move.