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Guess I was a bit premature. The replacement throttle body I borrowed was a gold one. Mine has a silver one (2008). Therefore, gold will not work 100% of the time. At least the gold one confirmed that the throttle body was my problem. Now I just need to buy a silver one.
Replaced the throttle body with a new one and still have the hanging idle at 1100 rpm when the car begins moving. Idle only comes back to 600 when the car is completely stopped.
Some of the adaptive idle stuff doesn't get enabled until you're stopped.
What tune is it running now? Factory original or something else. Lowering the min airflow table would fix it.
My first though exactly when this popped back up, I looked, he says the stock tune.
stoessjc, can you give us more details about when this started again? Had the car been fine for a long time after the new TB, then all of a sudden this happened? Any reason you had unhooked the battery before it started happening again? Looking for something that changed between when you said it was fine on 9/25/15 and today 11/3/15.
My first though exactly when this popped back up, I looked, he says the stock tune.
stoessjc, can you give us more details about when this started again? Had the car been fine for a long time after the new TB, then all of a sudden this happened? Any reason you had unhooked the battery before it started happening again? Looking for something that changed between when you said it was fine on 9/25/15 and today 11/3/15.
Stock tune. I have had a vararam intake on this car for about 100,000 miles without any issues. I got a TPS code back in May and took the throttle body off and cleaned it and the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner. Put the throttle body back on and immediately had the hanging idle problem. I was able to borrow a new throttle body and try it. When I installed it, the idle dropped down to 850 rpm without doing the idle relearn procedure. That was 9/25/15. I then found out that the gold throttle body will not work on my 2008, so I removed it and ordered a new silver throttle body. Put the new silver throttle body on, went through the idle relearn procedure, and then droved the car. Idle hang still there. Only time idle is normal is when the car stops moving.
I have not disconnected the battery since I removed the gold throttle body. I did not disconnect the battery when I installed the new silver throttle body.
This is very frustrating. Some have said a vacuum leak is the cause. Without any throttle pedal input, just easing the clutch out to start moving, as soon as the car moves the engine jumps up to 1100 rpm.
I don't see it being a vacuum leak as that would set a p0174 code. I had a MASSIVE vacuum leak when the graft on the back of my FAST came loose and the car still idled perfectly. It did set the lean code pretty quickly though.
I'm looking at your MAF sensor. I'd suggest you remove, inspect and clean it again but be super gentle with it, the heated wires in them are very sensitive by design.
Do you have a buddy you could swap MAF sensors with to see if that changes anything?
I would personally eliminate the MAF sensor as a possibility by unplugging it.. the problem is the IAT sensor is integrated into the MAF, so you'd have to only remove one of the wires that makes the MAF sensor itself work, while leaving the IAT sensor wiring alone.
If you're interested in trying this let me know and I'll find the wiring diagram for which wire you'd need to pull out of the MAF connector.
I would personally eliminate the MAF sensor as a possibility by unplugging it.. the problem is the IAT sensor is integrated into the MAF, so you'd have to only remove one of the wires that makes the MAF sensor itself work, while leaving the IAT sensor wiring alone.
If you're interested in trying this let me know and I'll find the wiring diagram for which wire you'd need to pull out of the MAF connector.
What about just unplugging the MAF? Since they are integral, if one or the other (MAF or IAT) is bad, you replace both with a new sensor.
If you just unplug the MAF the IAT will be unplugged too and will read like -40*F, which will screw fueling all up. Without the MAF the car will revert to speed density mode, which needs an accurate intake air temp in order to be able to calculate air flow
If you just unplug the MAF the IAT will be unplugged too and will read like -40*F, which will screw fueling all up. Without the MAF the car will revert to speed density mode, which needs an accurate intake air temp in order to be able to calculate air flow
I'll be surprised if it runs like that honestly
OK. Is it easy to remove the maf control wire from the connector? How do you do this and can you tell me which wire it is?
You have to pop the purple thing off the bottom of the connector and insert a very skinny tool into the smaller opening near the pin(s) you want to remove. The purple thing comes off by prying it gently from both ends.. it will pop off without too much trouble
There's also a cover on the opposite end of the connector that you may or may not have to pop off (I've seen it missing on a lot of cars for whatever reason). It's already removed in this picture
The wires in the picture are from a 2005, so the colors may be different on yours, but the locations should be the same. The two on the left are the same color and are for the IAT sensor. The other three are for the MAF sensor. Pulling any of the three should do the trick (power/ground/signal)
Last edited by schpenxel; Nov 4, 2015 at 11:13 AM.
