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Fast Idle Problem Continues

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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 08:09 AM
  #61  
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I think trying the stock intake air/filter setup is a good idea as well
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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 07:44 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by Joe_G
If your pcv fresh air supply is leaking, yes that's a problem. You should seal it up somehow, perhaps remove that swivel fitting and plug that hole and drill a new one, or maybe epoxy that one in place (though I would be afraid the epoxy would eventually crack).

You can't just unhook it and plug the hole, the intake manifold sucks air from the port behind the throttle body through the valley pan, and the hose you're looking at is the fresh air supply for the engine. If you leave that fresh air supply unhooked, the engine will be drawing air into itself that is unmetered by the MAF, thus throwing off your fueling and potentially your idle. You must provide metered fresh air to the engine for the system to work properly.

Perhaps you could buy a new fitting from Vararam.

It's possible this air leak right by the MAF is causing your problem. I'm a little dubious but it shouldn't leak, that is for sure.

You could test all of this by installing your stock air cleaner again and see if you still have the problem.
That fitting is a stock C6 part that I removed from the stock air cleaner and used on the vararam maf body. I have not been able to identify the part on any of the GM on-line parts suppliers, as I do not know what they call this part. I understand what you are saying about leaving it unplugged causing a problem. If it leaks metered air, then wouldn't that also cause a problem with the engine operation? I can try to seal around the swiveling stem of that part, which is where the leak is coming from. It does not leak around the threads.

How does the PCV system control air flow? I am used to a pcv valve that modulates air flow based on vacuum. How does corvette do this?
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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 07:48 PM
  #63  
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The port on the valley pan has a restriction in it to limit flow. There is no conventional PCV valve.
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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 07:52 PM
  #64  
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The valley cover pipe has an orifice that limits airflow and a baffle underneath that is supposed to limit oil getting into the intake. But it doesn't work that well so many people install a catch can online with the valley to intake port.

Why don't you just get a vacuum port and screw it into the vararam maf mount (they must sell one or perhaps a standard brass nipple will work). Then use a regular pcv hose to connect to the valve cover? That will eliminate the leak.
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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 07:53 PM
  #65  
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I say duct tape
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Old Nov 11, 2015 | 12:43 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by schpenxel
I say duct tape
I will try to tape it up to seal it off and see what that does. If that does not work, I will disconnect the maf and see what that does.
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Old Nov 15, 2015 | 01:28 PM
  #67  
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Stopped the air leak on the pcv fitting by installing an o-ring. Did not change anything, still hanging idle. I just did a pressure test again by plugging the entrance to the maf body and pressurizing through the brake booster line. This time no leak at that pcv fitting. I sprayed soapy water over the areas I can see and no sign of leak. However, I can hear the sound of air moving through the intake manifold if I hold my ear near it. This would indicate that air is escaping somewhere, right? Only other explanations would be overlap in valves or leaking rings. The system is pressurizing because when I uncouple the compressor a considerable amount of air bleeds out from the line connected to the brake booster. I know someone with a smoke machine and that is my next step, since I cannot find any leak with my tools and I hear what sounds like air moving through the intake manifold.
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Old Nov 15, 2015 | 01:35 PM
  #68  
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A valve is always open when the engine is off.

You don't have a vacuum leak, it's not your problem.

Do you have any codes?
Can you borrow your buddy's MAF to test?
If not, can you read codes then unhook your battery and see what happens?
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Old Nov 15, 2015 | 01:44 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Joe_G
A valve is always open when the engine is off.

You don't have a vacuum leak, it's not your problem.

Do you have any codes?
Can you borrow your buddy's MAF to test?
If not, can you read codes then unhook your battery and see what happens?
There are no pending codes or set codes. The car runs fine, no loss of power, no hesitation.

I understand that some valve or valves are going to be open, but if you have no overlap, you either have a intake valve open with exhaust closed or an exhaust valve open with intake closed. Either way, you don't get leak out the engine if the valve is seating properly.

I tried disconnecting the battery, then redoing the idle relearn procedure. Made no difference. Since the person with the smoke machine is the same one with the z06, I might be able to swap maf sensor with him if I go to his house.

I may try disconnecting the maf by removing the one wire, as described earlier in this thread.
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Old Nov 15, 2015 | 01:53 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by stoessjc
There are no pending codes or set codes. The car runs fine, no loss of power, no hesitation.

I understand that some valve or valves are going to be open, but if you have no overlap, you either have a intake valve open with exhaust closed or an exhaust valve open with intake closed. Either way, you don't get leak out the engine if the valve is seating properly.

I tried disconnecting the battery, then redoing the idle relearn procedure. Made no difference. Since the person with the smoke machine is the same one with the z06, I might be able to swap maf sensor with him if I go to his house.

I may try disconnecting the maf by removing the one wire, as described earlier in this thread.
360 degrees divided by 8 = 45 degrees so the chances are one of the intake valves is open at least a little bit so I'm sure that's the air sound you hear.

Does your cruise control work?
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Old Nov 15, 2015 | 02:26 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by Joe_G
360 degrees divided by 8 = 45 degrees so the chances are one of the intake valves is open at least a little bit so I'm sure that's the air sound you hear.

Does your cruise control work?
Yes, cruise control works.

But wouldn't that just pressurize the cylinder if the exhaust valve is closed?

I can log air flow rate from MAF and intake manifold absolute pressure with Dash Command. Can this data be used to determine proper operation of MAF?
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Old Nov 15, 2015 | 02:55 PM
  #72  
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I was wondering if your clutch switch went bad making the car think the clutch is partially depressed.

If you can log maf HZ while idling normally, then while moving slowly while the clutch is pushed in, it should read higher while the engine is idling higher as more air is going by. So if that's what you get that's what I would expect to get, hz goes up as the engine rpm goes up and flows more air.
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Old Nov 15, 2015 | 08:23 PM
  #73  
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Another datalogging effort. This time I had engine idling, car stopped in neutral with brake on. Let off brake and car coasts downhill. Allowed car to accelerate to 12 km/hr then starts slowing down without braking till car stops. Logged engine rpm, control module voltage, maf frequency, and speed. Here is what I got:

rpm module V MAF Hz VSS km/h
660 13.945 1971 0
1036 14.019 2647 4
1109 13.969 2668 6
1251 13.969 2735 7
1276 14.044 2754 8
1308 13.969 2784 10
1462 14.069 2872 12
1514 14.069 2864 12
1543 14.044 2867 12
1550 14.044 2905 12
1453 14.044 2872 9
1457 14.069 2862 5
781 14.094 2580 0
680 13.87 2074 0
663 13.945 2012 0

What I see is that maf frequency increases with increasing engine speed, which is what it should do. Anything else?
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Old Nov 15, 2015 | 08:51 PM
  #74  
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I agree with Joe.. doesn't sound like that is your problem. You'll always get a little bit of leakage through the engine, at the very least from the cylinders where the intake valves are open (rings will leak some). Totally normal.
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Old Nov 15, 2015 | 09:07 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by schpenxel
I agree with Joe.. doesn't sound like that is your problem. You'll always get a little bit of leakage through the engine, at the very least from the cylinders where the intake valves are open (rings will leak some). Totally normal.
So now where do I turn? I doubt those maf readings help any.
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Old Nov 15, 2015 | 09:31 PM
  #76  
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Did you log throttle position one time before? I can't remember? Can you get a log with that? Not sure it will help but can't hurt
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Old Nov 15, 2015 | 10:00 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by schpenxel
Did you log throttle position one time before? I can't remember? Can you get a log with that? Not sure it will help but can't hurt
Time RPM Speed Throttle % Pedal %
0 615 0 14.9 22
0.2s 630 0 16.1 22
0.6 848 6 18.4 22
0.7 1093 4 18.4 22
0.8 1093 3 18.4 22
1.0 980 2 18.8 22
1.1 788 0 18.4 22
2.7s 659 0 14.5 22

What I notice is that the throttle plate is moving without any pedal input.

Also measured fuel trims:

RPM STFT1 LTFT1 STFT2 LTFT2
637 -1.6% -4.7% -7% -6.2%
695 -2.3 -4.7 1.6 -6.2
1768 -0.8 -4.7 -0.8 -6.2
1993 -1.6 -4.7 -3.1 -6.2
2405 -0.8 -5.5 0.8 -8.6
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To Fast Idle Problem Continues

Old Nov 16, 2015 | 10:05 AM
  #78  
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The throttle moving around without any input to the pedal is normal...

The computer controls it (among other things) to control idle RPM.

Idle RPM can be different for different speeds, gears, neutral vs. in gear, etc. so without seeing the tune I can't say what's normal or not. I was hoping I'd see something obvious but don't.. That TPS value at idle is a little lower than mine ever was if memory serves, but I don't know if it's enough to matter
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Old Nov 16, 2015 | 10:18 AM
  #79  
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This is perplexing. With a stock tune this shouldn't be happening. With an aftermarket tune, it's common and easy to fix.

It started with the throttle body. Now you have a new one and it still does it.

If it was me, I'd put the stock air cleaner back on and see what happens.
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Old Nov 16, 2015 | 10:34 AM
  #80  
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I would too. Can't hurt.
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