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Can some one please tell me if a 2008 Z06 torque tube assembly will fit/work on a 2011 GS. If not why? And if not can parts be swapped to make it work? And I mean like the pinions. I recently destroyed my driveshaft and found a nice 08 assembly but after doing some reading I'm concerned its a no go and really wanted some confirmation. Yes its a 6 speed. Thank you so much!
Last edited by captain trash; Dec 25, 2019 at 10:46 PM.
Reason: Adding info
I found this that only mentions different lengths for different years, not the different models. I would bet z06 vs non-z06 are the same length. Hopefully someone else knows for sure
In my honest opinion, when you remove the drive train, its easier to remove the cradle, then separate the transmission/differential from the TT and then remove the TT from the engine bell housing. Reinstall in reverse order. Getting that TT input shaft into the clutch disk and Pilot Brg can be a real pain in the *** and when you have to try to get an entire Trans/diff and TT (as an assembly) in the air and into the bell housing. Getting it to line up properly and fully inserted can be a real headache. That light TT is MUCH easier to work with when its a single unit. I did mine on jack stands and didn't have an issue doing it that way.
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Dec 4, 2020 at 06:37 PM.
DAMN IT,, I hate when I do that... schpenxel Thank You for the back up. I will remove the C5 related info...
Just giving you a hard time. Do you have the same info for C6's by chance on the different torque tube versions? I've been asked several times about if there are different bearing sizes and torque tube lengths, etc. for different models and years but I don't really know.
In my honest opinion, when you remove the drive train, its easier to remove the cradle, then separate the transmission/differential from the TT and then remove the TT from the engine bell housing. Reinstall in reverse order. Getting that TT input shaft into the clutch disk and Pilot Brg can be a real pain in the *** and when you have to try to get an entire Trans/diff and TT (as an assembly) in the air and into the bell housing. Getting it to line up properly and fully inserted can be a real headache. That light TT is MUCH easier to work with when its a single unit. I did mine on jack stands and didn't have an issue doing it that way.
^^^^^ Best advice I've ever read, based on the three times I've done this job (all on jack stands).
I found that by spending some extra time on alignment when installing the friction disc, it makes it much easier to get the torque tube on as an assembly. I do the whole torque tube/transmission/rear/axles/cradle all as one assembly. Use a metal clutch install tool if you can. Don't just shove whatever plastic alignment tool in there and tighten everything down and call it done. You need to really make some effort to make sure the friction disc is actually centered--if using the plastic tool it will have some slack and flop around when you're done, if done correctly. If you just tightened it down and had to force the plastic tool out then you're going to have a hell of a time getting the input shaft to go in there..
There will be some slack between the plastic tools and slots in the friction disc center, so I've found it works best if you kind of pull the disc up some so that after everything is tightened, the alignment tool is left centered and will have some play equally in all directions. You'll find there is a LOT of slack with those tools once you do this one.. the metal ones are a lot more precise. I've never had an issue getting them to go right together as long as I've spent time getting that friction disc on just right.
I also use a cheap rolling transmission jack to support the front of the torque tube and a floor jack "cross beam" on the rear cradle to keep it stable. This makes it possible to roll everything forward and backwards, up and down, to get alignment just right. I've also found rotating things slightly if you're having issues is all it usually takes. I saw a video at the corvette factory where they have a long tool with a fitting on the end that will turn the torque tube. They stick that between the engine and torque tube while they're coming together and use it to get the alignment on the splines right, then they slide right together
Torque tube question
