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Lowering bolts replacement

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Old Dec 11, 2016 | 06:59 PM
  #21  
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Bump.

My lowering bolts are fused (FUSED). I've tried soaking with PB overnight repeatedly, hand tools, and even an electric impact with no luck.

How can I remove them without damaging the spring? My though was I could cut them off.

I appreciate any ideas here.

-GK
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Old Dec 11, 2016 | 07:23 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Ghost Knight
Bump.

My lowering bolts are fused (FUSED). I've tried soaking with PB overnight repeatedly, hand tools, and even an electric impact with no luck.

How can I remove them without damaging the spring? My though was I could cut them off.

I appreciate any ideas here.

-GK
Don't know the answer, but I would not cut them off. If you do, only the threaded part will be stuck in the spring and then you red really screwed.
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Old Dec 11, 2016 | 07:43 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by timd38
Don't know the answer, but I would not cut them off. If you do, only the threaded part will be stuck in the spring and then you red really screwed.
You're right, I forgot they are threaded into the spring. I'd like to avoid buying new springs (you'd be halfway to the cost of coilovers at that point).
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Old Dec 11, 2016 | 07:55 PM
  #24  
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The lowering bolts from ZIP are supposed to be good quality
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Old Dec 11, 2016 | 09:29 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Ghost Knight
Bump.

My lowering bolts are fused (FUSED). I've tried soaking with PB overnight repeatedly, hand tools, and even an electric impact with no luck.

How can I remove them without damaging the spring? My though was I could cut them off.

I appreciate any ideas here.

-GK
Are you unloading the bolts first by lifting the spring?
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Old Dec 12, 2016 | 01:28 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Ghost Knight
Bump.

My lowering bolts are fused (FUSED). I've tried soaking with PB overnight repeatedly, hand tools, and even an electric impact with no luck.

How can I remove them without damaging the spring? My though was I could cut them off.

I appreciate any ideas here.

-GK
Where are you located?
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Old Dec 12, 2016 | 02:16 PM
  #27  
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Default Raising the height on c6 GS question

Originally Posted by torquetube
I installed the Corvette Central OEM reproduction bolts to replace my OEM ones whose bushings were half gone by 130K miles.

Installation is easy but time-consuming - provided that your bolts aren't seized. Mine were easy to turn, but a few people have reported frozen bolts. In that case, try applying penetrating oil and letting it work overnight.

To change out the bolts, you need to jack up the car to remove the wheel, put the car on stands, and then jack up the spring itself (use a block of wood to avoid damaging the spring). This will unload the adjuster bolt so you can remove the old one and install the new one.

Be smart, don't put your fingers someplace where they could get squished if the jack releases.

Working one corner at a time, the anti-roll bar will be fighting you. So I recommend disconnecting one end link first (doesn't matter which side).

Leave the links undone until you get the ride height adjusted. This may take several cycles of turning the bolts, driving around to settle the suspension, measuring the height at the fenders, rinse, repeat.
If I jack up the car and remove the tire, will it be necessary to use another jack on the spring in order for me to raise the height by turning the bolts clockwise.

Any input will be appreciated. I want to get a new alignment once I make the adjustment.

JB
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Old Dec 12, 2016 | 02:31 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Detroit1
If I jack up the car and remove the tire, will it be necessary to use another jack on the spring in order for me to raise the height by turning the bolts clockwise.

Any input will be appreciated. I want to get a new alignment once I make the adjustment.

JB
You would jack up the car, insert jack stands, lower the car onto the stands, remove the wheel, and use your jack and a suitable block of wood to lift the spring and unload the adjuster bolt.

It's a little crowded in there for a floor jack, though. A bottle jack is ideal for lifting the spring.
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Old Dec 12, 2016 | 03:50 PM
  #29  
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Cliff note version is that you have to have a gap between the bolt and the spring. If you don't have any, you won't be able to turn the bolt.

When I did it, I removed the spring.
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Old Dec 12, 2016 | 05:26 PM
  #30  
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Default Thanks for your input

Originally Posted by timd38
Cliff note version is that you have to have a gap between the bolt and the spring. If you don't have any, you won't be able to turn the bolt.

When I did it, I removed the spring.
Okay that does make sense. Will borrow a bottle jack from a friend in lieu of using my floor jack. Will be easier to position and will use a small block of wood to spread the load on the spring area.

Had a guy tell me that all you had to do was leave wheels on and turn them enough to get access to the bolt. That certainly was an over statement.

Thanks,
Jim
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Old Dec 12, 2016 | 06:34 PM
  #31  
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Here ya go

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Old Dec 12, 2016 | 09:04 PM
  #32  
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Thinking about lowering the rear as I want to narrow the gap a little more to match my front. Thanks for reminding me of that vid.
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Old Dec 16, 2016 | 12:41 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by torquetube
Are you unloading the bolts first by lifting the spring?
Yes, I did. I lowered a friend's Z06 years ago. Mine is a no-go.
Originally Posted by Curt D
Where are you located?
I'm in San Antonio.
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