Lowering bolts replacement






Sometimes you can get lucky and buy the bolts from someone who replaced his springs.
Last edited by Curt D; Mar 22, 2018 at 12:58 PM.






Reproductions, but if done right they could be what some people desperately need.

Installation is easy but time-consuming - provided that your bolts aren't seized. Mine were easy to turn, but a few people have reported frozen bolts. In that case, try applying penetrating oil and letting it work overnight.
To change out the bolts, you need to jack up the car to remove the wheel, put the car on stands, and then jack up the spring itself (use a block of wood to avoid damaging the spring). This will unload the adjuster bolt so you can remove the old one and install the new one.
Be smart, don't put your fingers someplace where they could get squished if the jack releases.
Working one corner at a time, the anti-roll bar will be fighting you. So I recommend disconnecting one end link first (doesn't matter which side).
Leave the links undone until you get the ride height adjusted. This may take several cycles of turning the bolts, driving around to settle the suspension, measuring the height at the fenders, rinse, repeat.
To change out the bolts, you need to jack up the car to remove the wheel, put the car on stands, and then jack up the spring itself (use a block of wood to avoid damaging the spring). This will unload the adjuster bolt so you can remove the old one and install the new one.
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OP...give it a try and let us know.
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However, just how much will depend on how gone his bolts are. The more trashed they are, the less clearance is required to remove them. The aftermarket ones he bought have hardly any bushing at all, so they won't require as much clearance to install.
Too much right? Or a fair price?
Too much right? Or a fair price?
Last edited by timd38; Nov 22, 2016 at 10:39 AM.
If possible I would do the OEM repros. The VMS bolts drop the car atleast an inch or more. I have them cranked up all the way and they are still pretty damn low.






At first, it will look like a jacked-up monster truck. Drive it and be patient.
Ours was not fully settled after 50 miles, looked closer by 100, and had stopped settling at 200.
At that point, you can measure and start the process all over again if needed.
Here's some factory specs whether you use the GM tool underneath (I have one but don't use it any more) or measure at the fender lips (more convenient and probably just as accurate).
If possible I would do the OEM repros. The VMS bolts drop the car atleast an inch or more. I have them cranked up all the way and they are still pretty damn low.
Keep in mind the $1,000 includes a brake upgrade. So, at $125 an hour, it would cost you $370, to replace the bolts, still a tad high, but not real bad. That leaves $600 for the brakes and the rear brake lines can be a challenge.
Last edited by timd38; Nov 22, 2016 at 12:10 PM.
Keep in mind the $1,000 includes a brake upgrade. So, at $125 an hour, it would cost you $370, to replace the bolts, still a tad high, but not real bad. That leaves $600 for the brakes and the rear brake lines can be a challenge.
http://www.parts123.com/corvettecent...50V&ukey=51206
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