Looking to install headers on a dry sump LS3 soon (if you guys know of any good deals let me know... getting rough quotes of 1K-1.5K total so far).

My question is: How many lines are near the headers?

So far i have:

AC line

Dry sump lines(maybe not necessary)

Trans cooler lines

O2 sensor lines

Clutch reservoir line

Starter motor/line

spark plug wires

Wires running along driver side frame rail (in plastic loom)

The reason I ask is because Im picking up all the heat shielding required for it... yes, you can coat the headers - but i suspect it won't be nearly as good as wrapping the headers + heat shielding everything

I plan to order a starter blanket, 1/2" and 1" diameter wire heat shielding, and the lava rock header wrap (200 ft - I plan to wrap the X pipe too).

Any other things I should worry about/wrap?


-edit- updating lines as i get info in case someone else needs to get info about what is near the headers...

 

Coating is a far better option.

Good fitting/working headers will have near zero heat issues, even uncoated, and the only thing that really helps is a starter one for the solenoid, but even then its a stretch.

Save your money. Get a good set of headers, that fit properly, and install them correctly and you will have no issues. Seen way too many cars burn down from wrap to ever recommend it.

 

I see everybody wrapping everything and have to laugh .... good headers produce no more heat that the stock cast iron manifolds and the CAT that is stuck up there next to the starter .......

Dave

 

Isn't the idea to make it better than OEM, tranny cooler lines are very close to headers, it should help with heat soaking between runs

 

I'm 99% sure if you buy a quality header, like Kooks, ARH, etc, you'll have 0 issues and 0 need for extra shielding.

I just installed Kooks 1 7/8 long tubes on my `13 dry sump LS3 and there was exactly 1 starter wire close to the inner primary on the passenger side (and I'm 99% sure that was just production tolerances of the car showing). Loosen nut, move wire over, tighten and use a metal zip tie for peace of mind and there was tons of room. Since all of the starter wires sit close to the cat stock, they already have foil shielding; and I'm sure a SS long tube is going to produce less heat than a cat.

The extra wire from the rear O2s is easy to tie and tuck, though I saw a member here use a metal cable holder and a self tapping screw to secure these wire to the tunnel plate. I'll probably do the same next time the car is in the air for something just for peace of mind. Front O2 extension drop straight off the back of the head and are nowhere near the primaries, I just tied them to the existing wiring harnesses and lines so everything was "clean."

The clutch line had tons of room with Kooks. I've read of others burning and/or melting theirs, I'm not sure what brand header they were running.

Stock plug wires have plenty of space. Those little heat shield "socks" aren't needed, but they do look cool so...

Dry sump lines are no where near the headers, you just have to disconnect them to make room for the install. I think the rear line has a foil wrap already as again the factory cat probably puts out a ton more heat. Cooler lines are metal and appear to have plenty of room when using the little bracket Kooks provides.

In short I wasted a good bit of money on heat shielding (2 - 1 inch tubes, 3 ft long and 8 spark plug socks) that were totally unnecessary. Also after thinking about it, those silicone coated fiberglass tubes probably hold a good bit of moisture, maybe not a good idea to go too crazy with it...

 

Thanks, I'll insulate those as well.

 

I thought about the header wrap + fire issue. However, I am planning on using the lava rock DEI knockoff version which should cut down on that risk. In any case, ANY oil spilled on headers/exhaust mani can cause a fire as long as the oil fumes ignite. Im sure the wrap does act as a wick - but I am extremely cautious about oil-burning smells. I also do plan on coating it before wrapping.


I would disagree - The cast iron mani's heat conduction + thickness means it insulates better (heat continues backwards, slow amount of heat loss through the manifold itself). The cat does heat up though so good point.



Im really looking for peace of mind more than anything else. I dont mind "wasting" a couple hundred for peace of mind. What does worry me is as was mentioned, the wick effect of header wraps + oil, or header failure due to heat soak...


I plan on keeping the car for a while and really want the plastic crap under the hood to not take too much heat. Im planning on BB headers so I can reuse the factory X; fitment on those are supposed to be one of the best (on par with, if not better than, the big three)

 

purchased a ton of heat shielding material.

Starter shield (non-conductive heat shield), wire loom wraps in 1/2, 1", 1-3/4", 200ft of "lava wrap" as well as clatter can ceramic spray.

Will update thread with quantity required, size, header wrap required,etc after I finish. Will also update if header wrap wrecks my headers... or causes a fire...

 

I PM'd Kooks to get their input. I'll take their word at the header wrap.

 

I understand that header wrap will "hurt" the headers. I'd rather abuse the headers than the electronics/plastics. 1K expense vs redoing all the wiring...

 

$1k expense to lighten your wallet and make you feel warm and fuzzy, vs not doing anything with never having to worry about redoing the wiring.

 

Coating the headers would have been good enough. You probably went overboard with all the other shielding, but if it makes you think things will be "cooler" or "safer" then more power to you.

 

true. I ask myself this all the time... BUT in the search for more power, these things must be done... Eventually I want more power but this is a necessary mod, especially as the car gets older and the cats start to fail.

 

Hmm, my car makes 1200+rwhp and doesn't have all that, so not sure why you consider it a necessary mod.

 

Kooks called me back today, awesome customer service, straight answer from Kooks, DO NOT WRAP. If you plan on tracking the car get ceramic coating. Wrapping will violate Kooks life time warranty, it impacts heat dissipation from the stainless and can have impact the qualities of the metal.

 

will they warranty my electronics/plastics in the engine compartment if excess heat damages it?

I understand header wraps may have a detrimental effect on the header itself. How bad the effect, I cant seem to find any trustworthy information. Just a lot of "i heard someone say that someones headers rusted out..." with no info on if it was mild, stainless, etc.
Looking at the properties of 304SS, I have read that it doesnt like cooling slowly due to carbide precipitation (grain structure change). I can see how having a wrap on it may allow these carbide crystals to form, ultimately causing failure. However, Annealing temps are at ~1900F so i think that is unlikely to occur if I am not running the car hard on a track. If I gain access to an IR thermometer I will check the temp after driving it hard.

I have found a few posts about header wrap soaking with oil and causing a fire.
I am not sure if that not having the header wrap would have helped it in any way - enough oil on hot headers will flash. Still, I CAN see the is possible that the wrap would act like a wick in oil lamps, feeding a fire. Again, oil wicks do need to be SOAKED in oil though, and that is going to cause a fire regardless of whether that wrap was there or not. I guess its possible the wrap will remain ablaze longer since the oil cant be evaporated/flashed off as quickly as a naked header.


Again, I was looking mainly at lines that could possibly use shielding from radiant heat... I do appreciate concerns from people saying "just get it coated."


I will update the thread if i burn the car down due to the header wrap. I will update the thread if my headers fall apart due to corrosion/??.

And I will update with what lines I insulated while doing the swap for anyone who may want to insulate them as well (whether they wrap the headers or not).

 

You must be FI'd. Turbo or supercharger? If turbo, you can't have headers... if supercharged, why no headers?

 

Subscribed, I am waiting for my coated Kooks headers to arrive.

I'd like to know the sizes of wrap that you will use to do each line.

 

Same here Kooks said street use they will be fine / Track car coat them,

 

I'm just going to wrap the trans oil lines next the headers and blanket the starter.