My third brake light was staying on, so I looked at the possibility of a corroded connector, that wasn't it. I decided to buy a new brake light switch and replace the old (2005) switch. I looked at the procedure in the service manual, but I'm confused. It looks like the rotating arm of the switch is the wrong way round. Before giving myself another herniated disc I wanted to hear of any tips or photos of an actual replacement.

Thanks

Fred

 

Here,
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...on-sensor.html

And remember that once you have the switch in, you have to use a Tech II to do a brake pedal position relearn.

Hence each switch has slightly different Ohm readings in their over all movements, so the BPP relearn allows the car to learn that switches Ohm reading in the different positions of the pedal. Hence old switch may have been fine, and just needed to do a tech II BPP relearn of it instead.

 

Thank you for the link, I searched for "brake pedal switch", and didn't find the posting you are referring to. I will ask my girlfriend who is considerably more flexible end smaller to perform the install

 

No worries, but remember to use some Lithuma grease on the pedal stud so it does slows the wear to the inside of the U fork piece on the sensor as it slipped on the pedal stud, that you hold the sensor in place as you are tightening the bolt so the spring loaded U piece has the pedal stud still in it, and that you do the Tech II BPP relearn so the BCM learns the sensor Ohm readings with the pedal at rest, and pedal pushed down.

Now, when you are doing the Relearn, don't go hog wild trying to push the pedal down too far. Just push the pedal time you get the normal amount of pedal resistance, then release the pedal to get the second at home position reading. Hence some guys tend to push the pedal way down too much with way more pressure that need, to program a Ohm reading into the BCM that is never going to see isntead.

Also to point out, since the inner U part of the sensor plastic arm that rides the pedals metal stud does wear, and sounds like you where not getting codes, just the brake lights on full time, the old sensor may have been fine, and only need to do the BPP relearn to accommodate for that normal wear of the sensor.

To test the old sensor, just put a ohm meter on the sensor connector pins, and move the arm full stroke. If the sensor is bad, then at some point in the arms movement, your going to loose the Ohm reading isntead.

 

Thank you Dano,

Getting a Tech II to do a brake pedal position relearn procedure will probably be the hardest part of the story.
I live in the Netherlands, finding a qualified mechanic who knows his way around a Corvette, and owns a Tech II, not an easy job.

I thought about buying a Chinese knock off Tech II just for occasions like this, but I'm reluctant because of the Chinese reputation for quality control

You seem to know your way around the C6, do you have experiences with the Chinese Tech II clones ?

Fred

 

I live in the UK and have a cloned TECH2 and had it for a few years. I haven't used it lots but I have no issues

 

Have both a Tech II clone, as well as a VX GM Nano.

The down side on the Tech II clones is the cheap DC to DC converters on them go out, and you end up having to replace it with a real/better DC to DC converter instead. Short of that, it works just like a real Bosch Tech II.
Note, since you are abroad, when you go to program a Fob in, your going to needed SPS from TIS2000, so will need to have a laptop running Tis2000 as well. So if the laptop you have does not have a Rs232 port on it, will need to buy a USB cable for the laptop to Tech II, and then then download the needed XP drivers for the cable.


On the VX GM Nano, its a clone of a the newer MDI, so it comes with both Tech2win to work as a Tech II, as well as works with GDS2 for newer cars as well.
The glitch here, sometimes Tech2win will not run in windows 10, and need win7 on a mulit core processor machine isntead. Hence GDS2 runs in VM, and a single core processor can not run VM player software. On the postive note for something like Fob programming, you just use TIS2000 to start with with the nano, and save the step of the Tech II clone asking you to connect to SPS for the end of fob programming.
Hence export corvettes do not allow you use the key in the cylinder above the plate to put the car into Fob relearn mode (either short of long) and it take SPS in the end to program a fob in (and still get hit with a 10 minute wait before you can program in the fobs).

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ternative.html

 

I know this thread is old but I am having an issue and was wondering if this could be my issue. Brakes WERE working fine except for the 3rd brake light staying on. I tried several fixes in other threads including the connector in the bumper. Connector was clean with no corrosion and ALL lights were working properly in the rear bumper except for the 3rd light staying on. Have had to pull fuse to keep from getting a dead battery. BUT, I have been trying to trace another issue with the front driver turn signal and the horn intermittently working. So from another thread, I have tried pulling the fuse box and checking the copper leads on the undersides of the fuse box. Found an issue for the low lamp circuit and replaced the copper wire.

I should note that the fuse box has been removed and replaced several times due to other issues. For starters, I drilled the lip off the metal sleeves that hold it together. So what happened was metal shavings shorted a connection or 2 and I believe this may have been the 3rd brake light issue. So after resolving the metal shavings removal, (so stupid to have done that), and resolving the copper wire underneath, all is good, it seems, but the brake lights. Only time will tell if I resolved the light and horn issue with the copper fix but for now they seem to be working.

Only now, I have no brake lights. Backups, parking lights, hazard lights all work. They flash on and off while arming and disarming, parking lights are on when car is running, but no brake light activation with the pedal.

So Now that you have my back story, the question is this...Could this have caused an issue with the brake switch needing to be relearned or replaced? I am not sure how to check the switch for proper activation. But for 12 dollars I have a replacement coming from Amazon. Can anyone help me understand this issue or have any other ideas what I can check that may have gone wrong?

 

As stated, each brake pedal sensor will have a slightly different ohm reading at rest, so you need to do the relearn so the BCM knows that value when not touching the pedal, then you give the pedal light pressure until you just start to get pedal resistance,and the BCM knows to turn the brake lights on one that value has been reached/exceed.

If the pedal sensor has wear to its U from the last relearn, it just confuses the hell out of the BCM instead.

So would start with new pedal sensor and relearn. While you have the tech II connected to the car, go into BCM data to make sure that the BCM is activating the brake lights when you press the brake pedal afterwards. If that shows good, and the brake lights are not coming on, then you know that you have a problem in the brake light wiring after the BCM.