250mph

First post here after being a long term guest of the forum.

Car Details: 2009 Coupe (Very early build with VIN under 100 built in 2008) Auto. Car is used only on occasion and has under 10,000 miles. Original owner

Additional background: 1) Spark plug wires are securely attached. 2) TPS all read pressure.

Problem: First trip in 2019 and the Active handling would engage during left turns followed by a message that Active Handling active (NOT "service active handling)". This would happen at very low speeds when it shouldn't be activated, Taking the same turn in the opposite direction (right turn) and everything is ok even at much higher speeds. Tried this A vs B test several times to confirm it is only left hand turns. After several trips under 20 miles each the Active Handling continued to engage during left hand turns while RH turns are ok, but recently the Service Active Handling occasionally comes on.

Question 1: Any suggestions on a likely root cause? I've read about the problem with earlier models and the TSB with the comb fix, but have yet to find one specific to a turn direction.

Question 2: Are there any code readers under $600 that will read the chassis codes? I prefer one that will work out of the box.

I realize having the chassis codes and the ability to read the steering wheel sensor and other outputs would be a tremendous help and that is why I asked Question 2. Just want to rule out some basics before resorting to having to take it to my local dealership.

Thanks in advance for any advice/help.

Ahrmike

very likely steering wheel sensor is loose at the base of the steering column. That or a Yaw sensor broken (but I have yet to come across a thread of that one failing)

dr_gallup

Did you recently replace one tire? I had something similar on my 350Z when I got a flat and had to replace one rear tire. Going around corners in on direction only would activate the system.

250mph

Thank you for the replies and here is some additional information.

Just returned from having PA annual inspection performed and the independent (not GM dealer) mechanic scanned for codes. The only code present was C0710-5A, Steering Position Signal Plausibility Failure

They didn't seem to interested in repairing as they didn't know what special equipment would be needed.

Post #2:
How is the sensor held in place that it would become loose? Once loose can it be tightened or secured in place?

Answer to post 3:
Tire replacement: No, I did not have any of the tires replaced.

Thanks for the help and appreciate the suggestions.

250mph

Based on the suggestion of Post #2 the plastic panel was removed to gain access to the steering column and sensor. Below is what I found.

It definitely looks loose to me. When activating the telescopic function the white collar and angle sensor move. I'm speculating that it should not move and should be positioned more towards the left against the column assembly.

Any ideas on why this occurred? Car has never been modified and only back to dealer for recalls (catalytic convertor and headlight)

So the question becomes how to fix. Yes, I'd rather do my own repairs if possible. Any guidance or link to where I could find the repair details would be appreciated.

Carvone

I had this exact same problem a couple months ago, here is a post I made with some links to others who posted about it in the past. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1599264082

In my case nothing was broken, it just came apart and was dangling like yours seems to be. You could probably fix it while in place but it's very hard to see what your doing with your head shoved up under there and it is easy enough to just remove the steering column.

Remove the driver seat and then remove the steering column, there's about 5 bolts and 3-4 connections that need to be taken apart. You are messing with airbag connections so disconnect the battery and let de energize. This is also important, make sure the steering wheel does not turn while removed, tie or tape it in place, I used some twine. You will understand how the steering sensor goes back together once you get it out and are looking at it, pretty simple actually with some plastic clips that snap back together.

I had to take mine back out again cause after putting it back together it was an inch or so short of connecting to the steering shaft going through the firewall and I thought something compressed within the column, but after looking at it a second time determined that was impossible. Instead look at the shaft going through the firewall, that is what moved toward the front of the car. I put a large philips head screwdriver though the bolt hole and yanked it back toward me about an inch then everything married up just fine.

My car was a garage queen all it's life also and I had just recently used the telescopic function. I think the shafts just dried out and got stuck. I lubed everything that I thought could rotate or move from the steering wheel to the steering rack, everything is fine now.

250mph

Carvone,

Thanks for the reply, link and the photos. My car is also a garage queen, but I feel there is no excuse for the lube drying out or lack of lubrication or any other root cause when parked in a climate controlled environment.

It looks like I'll be removing the seat and having fun under the dash for a while.

If any helpful hints, suggestions or videos concerning this repair are appreciate. With any luck I'll only have to do this once.

Carvone

Guess you could do it without removing the seat but my back is a mess and it made it easier to lie flat on all those towels you see with my feet in the back of the bus. Like any car related project, the first time takes hours whereas the second time is done in minutes. I could easily do this under an hour now that I know what to look for. Most of my time was spent concentrating on why the column was short an inch instead of looking elsewhere for the problem. Sometimes you get fixated and need to take a break.

I agree on the 'no excuse' for dry shafts but things tend to dry out when they are not used enough. Would hate to think what a dealer would charge for this....and how many parts they would throw at it? I attributed mine to the PO having an Edelbrock Supercharger and/or LT headers installed, I'm sure they had to remove the steering rack to pin the crank or they messed with it on the header install and then it sat for years until he sold it.

Let me know if you need any help. I think you will be fine once you get in there and see it. You can see the 4 bolt holes (in my pics) that hold the column in, then there is the bolt at the end of the shaft that connects to the U-joint. Then just some connections to undo and it slides right out. Just don't allow the steering wheel or the steering sensor to rotate, it can move but make sure it reassembles as it sits when you take it out.

250mph

Started the repair process and need some help.

Battery is disconnected (more than 10 minutes), steering wheel is straight and seat is out. Still need to fix wheel to column to prevent spinning or clock spring issues.

How does the trim detail below the steering wheel (padded piece) come out? I have the two torx screws removed and the hatch fuel door switches. I'm guessing it is held in by friction pins and just need a good tug, but not certain where to pull/push. Video link would be great!!!

If any other trim pieces have to be removed please advice along with any instructions/tricks.

Carvone

There are 4 clips, here is a link to a pic of where they are. A good tug is all it takes

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ing-wheel.html

Try this also
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...l-see-pic.html

250mph

Thanks Carvone!!! Two torx screws and pulled starting from the left. Just need to watch the cabin temperature sensor as it is fastened to the panel.

The panel is off and moving forward.

Disconnected the airbag circuit (yellow connector), but having difficulty getting the cam lock electrical connector separated. The cam is unlocked and the two halves start to separate, but the side closest to firewall feels like something is holding it from releasing completely. I'll need to get out the inspection mirrors.

I'm trying to limit the number of times I need to be lying on the floor looking up as it is hard on the back!!!

I've been taking pictures as I go and with any luck will be able to post the details when successfully completed.

Carvone

IIRC it came apart with some wiggly force, I don't remember if there were any other tabs to depress but I don't think there was.

You're talking about this big one here right? Maybe you are trying to separate it at the wrong joint, look at whats left in the car after separation.

250mph

Cam lock steering wiring connector: It just took a bit of force/wiggling for it to remove 100%. It felt like something was restricting movement, but it just might have been the wiring mass.

Bolt for steering shaft is removed after marking it's position. [13mm bolt and 15mm nut wrench sizes]

Steering wheel tied in place.

Of the four bolts that hold the steering column in place the back (closest to engine) are remove and the two towards the front are removed.

I've read that some folks removed the electric motor which looks simple enough but not certain about how the cable is attached. Any special tricks here? Remove motor completely or leave hanging?

Thanks for all your support!

Carvone

No need to remove that little side motor, the whole thing should drop down and slide out now. Just go slow and work it out of there, pretty straight forward.

Leaving work now but will check on ya later. Good Luck.

250mph

Intermediate success! I was able to extract the steering wheel assembly.

Now the question is A) does the bearing need to be repositioned on the shaft? or.B) Does the metal shaft have to be moved somehow? ie: Is the bearing and sensor are in the correct position along the shaft but the shaft needs to move so the bearing is located in its holder? or C) Something else?

There looks to be a snap ring between the sensor and bearing. I'm not certain if it's retraining groove is in the white plastic or on the shaft itself.

I'm hesitant to remove the SAS at this point.

Any suggestions on how to proceed?

Hopefully the following pictures will help articulate what I'm up against.

Carvone

No, the bearing assembly does not move on the shaft, it is set in place. This is what needs to be lubed, when you use the telescopic function it should push the wheel toward the driver but since this is dried up and stuck in place it pushed the column out of the bottom and dislodged the sensor, giving you the AH codes. IIRC I used a dry lithium lube or a dry gun lube if you have it handy. It's hard to get it in there but you have no choice. If it won't move freely after lube then you can always reattach the power wire for that little side motor and use the telescopic button to move it in and out as you spray lube down there (will have to reconnect power obviously). Once it's working correctly then reassemble and reinstall the column.

This is exactly what mine did and when I went to reinstall it the holes were off by an inch or so, and I'll bet yours will look the same when you go to reinstall.

250mph

Last update before calling it a night...

Many thanks to Carvone for his help and the nice phone conversation. His guidance really helped me progress to this point.

The shaft the bearing and SAS (Steering Angle Sensor) are attached to must move freely and mine certainly does not. Looking down the inside of the shaft there is evidence of grease and it was not dry or hard.

Spent 2 hours working on moving the shaft in and out. At first it was very difficult to move as in near impossible. Used a 6 volt battery to power the motor to make it easier move the shaft while applying lube. After what seemed like a 300 cycles moving the shaft in and out I could barely push and pull it out by hand. Some success, but no where close to what is needed for it to work reliably. There is still too much force for the retainer to hold the bearing in, but decided to call it a night. (lube included PB blaster, gun oil with Teflon and conventional oil - I was getting no where, hence the different lubricants)

I'm baffled as to why this is so stiff and need to free it up before feeling comfortable the problem is resolved.

At this point I'd like to remove the bearing/SAS shaft completely from the inner shaft located in the square extruded aluminum housing, but not certain how it is retained or how to gain access.

Does anyone know how to remove the shaft completely for a thorough inspection, fix and lubrication? Perhaps a writeup, link or video would be ideal.

I've seen the sketches provided in the GM parts catalog, but there is not enough detail to understand how it might come apart.

250mph

To support post 17 I thought I'd include a few pictures.

I've also found AzMotorhead's post with a few details where the design differs from what I have and I believe they are the same 2009 model year. For one there are three tabs that hold the bearing directly and his shaft appears to retract much further into the bearing support (attached to aluminum extruded housing) than what mine is capable. Here's the link to his pictures in Post #4: AzMotorhead's Pictures

I'm speculating the only way to fix my unit is to gain access to the sliding shafts, but how?

Pictures of my 2009 Steering column:




On AzMotorhead's steering column there are locking tabs in this location. Three tabs located 120 degrees apart.

VETFEVER

Great guys on here sharing their knowledge - Thanks All!

vetfever

Carvone

Think about it for a minute.......If the steering column shaft were to move freely out of the car, then it would be the same way when installed in the car and you would be able to move your steering wheel forward and back with ease? It might be a Jet but it doesn't have ailerons.
The telescoping feature is still attached to that shaft which would prevent the free movement. I think you are over thinking this way too much, clean it, lube it, reassemble and reinstall and try it in the car. Like I said before, it's really easy to remove the second time if you need to do something else to it.