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I have a 2008 base 6M. Went for inspection yesterday and the check engine light came on during inspection (of course it was off before that!), with code P0336 - research here says that's "Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Performance ECM" - so I assume this is just replace the sensor. Or at least inspect it for any loose connections and such. So is replacement an easy job, a moderate job, or more than that? I did my research here and saw some answers with "5 minutes, one bolt" and others saying the starter needs to be removed or loosened and dropped, some saying exhaust is in the way of that, perhaps. I can see that headers might cause trouble, but I have stock exhaust.
This was the most useful thread, specific to Z models, but the question would be if the base model is easier or harder because of exhaust differences. Or if there is any difference. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...sor-diy-2.html
There are plenty more threads on your very same issue - take a look at some of these threads they may be helpful to you - at least they will offer some insight and some have great pictures to assist you -
I went through those threads provided my madmatt9471 and some other threads, still looking for an answer from anyone who has actually done the crank position sensor replacement - is this a little job, maybe more? I guess I'll just get the sensor, lift the car, and take a look.
You have to remove the starter to replace the crank sensor don't forget to disconnect your battery it's not that bad to replace it if you have the stock exhaust
I have a 2008 base 6M. Went for inspection yesterday and the check engine light came on during inspection (of course it was off before that!), with code P0336 - research here says that's "Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Performance ECM" - so I assume this is just replace the sensor. Or at least inspect it for any loose connections and such. So is replacement an easy job, a moderate job, or more than that? I did my research here and saw some answers with "5 minutes, one bolt" and others saying the starter needs to be removed or loosened and dropped, some saying exhaust is in the way of that, perhaps. I can see that headers might cause trouble, but I have stock exhaust.
This was the most useful thread, specific to Z models, but the question would be if the base model is easier or harder because of exhaust differences. Or if there is any difference. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...sor-diy-2.html
NO !!…getting a P0336 doesn’t just mean replace the CKP…one must still check the wiring before “assuming” the sensor is bad…and always buy an OEM sensor !!
It's an easy enough job. Drop the starter and there it is. One bolt holds it on. Take out the one bottle, unplug the wire, swap in the new one, put the starter back. Getting the starter in and out on the other hand, might be hard, might be difficult depending on your exhaust and starter combination.
However, and this is a big one, as very well noted above, it rarely ever is the Crank Position Sensor gone bad. I know with my car any time the starter got hot and cranked over the engine very very slowly - boom, Crank Position Sensor code. It was never the Crank Position Sensor. Check the wires for heat damage, check the starter and most importantly the starter solenoid, check the battery. Make sure all of this is good before you put in a CPS.
It definitely cranks slowly and very much so when hot. I thought it was the battery since that slow crank has come and gone, and been gone after giving the battery a charge. I know the C6 has issue with draining batteries. Maybe that "fix" from charging is just because it's morning and everything is nice and cool. I checked the battery and it's got plenty of juice. Alternator puts out enough when it's running. I put it up on ramps and inspected the starter and CPS wiring, and can't see or feel anything wrong. Everything is connected, wires are not cracked or crusty. I saw some other threads say the CPS could be the cause of the slow cranking, and not the code thrown as a symptom of slow cranking when hot. So at this point I don't think I have anything to lose by replacing the sensor with a new AC Delco unit. It's not likely to do any harm, and it will probably crank fast and start just fine since it will be cold. And then of course when I run it out to get inspected it will be hot, crank slow, throw the code and I will fail again!
I changed the sensor last night. It was a little more difficult than anticipated since the starter would not come all the way out between the cat and the bottom of the engine without a lot of wiggling, turning, and pulling. I spent about 45 minutes just getting the starter out of the way. Changing the sensor itself was of course a 5 minute job or less. The one that came out was a gray no-name part, so it had probably been replaced before. The one I put in was a black AC Delco, supposedly the best one available. The end result is it started right up, did not show any slow cranking, and the check engine light was gone. Hopefully I will not get a repeat of lighting that up in the inspection bay when I go later today or tomorrow!
Hey, passed inspection! So the new sensor has not failed yet, nor did anything else fail anew, given my usual luck with anything even remotely related to the DMV.
Hey, passed inspection! So the new sensor has not failed yet, nor did anything else fail anew, given my usual luck with anything even remotely related to the DMV.