LMR Breather Can Unboxing / Install Notes Thread

Let's try that again:
Catch can sits in line with the normal PCV system and catches blow-by gases. Depending on the quality of the construction and element, they can range from performing very poor (eBay crap) to taking care of all oil/blow-by issues entirely (and range everywhere in between).
What catch cans can't do is relieve the crank case pressure, which is already proving to be an issue on some FI cars. There's no pattern yet, but there have been several that have blown out seals. This was an expensive (there's no arguing that) option, but I think in the long term it will be worth the expense.
I have no idea if it works, but I'm willing to bet LMR knows what they're doing.

Let's try that again:
Catch can sits in line with the normal PCV system and catches blow-by gases. Depending on the quality of the construction and element, they can range from performing very poor (eBay crap) to taking care of all oil/blow-by issues entirely (and range everywhere in between).
What catch cans can't do is relieve the crank case pressure, which is already proving to be an issue on some FI cars. There's no pattern yet, but there have been several that have blown out seals. This was an expensive (there's no arguing that) option, but I think in the long term it will be worth the expense.
I have no idea if it works, but I'm willing to bet LMR knows what they're doing.

You'd also want to vent or bypass the other lines if you went that route.
You'd also want to vent or bypass the other lines if you went that route.
As beautiful as the LMR box is, it's too rich for my blood!
I don't want to stray too far off topic from the LMR box, though.

VNAMVET has an excellent thread put together on a N/A catch can install. I think the difference with FI is the need for check valves.
I don't want to stray too far off topic from the LMR box, though.

VNAMVET has an excellent thread put together on a N/A catch can install. I think the difference with FI is the need for check valves.
I wouldn’t powder coat an intercooler as it will inhibit thermal transfer. On the other hand, anodizing microscopically etches surface, which some believe increases thermal transfer due to additional surface area and turbulence – this was my reasoning along with corrosion resistance. Also quality core manufacturers like Bell do a mild natural anodize after oven brazing.
Oh, I’d ask for a semi-gloss lightly textured finish, hides imperfections if powder coating.

The check valves on a catch can exist (I believe, anyway) to prevent boost from going to the wrong place and increasing the pressure (causing seals to blow, etc).
Reid can explain it far better than I can.
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You can see that the kit comes with Pro 350 braided -10AN hose, but only includes standard Gates rubber hose for the -6AN connections. As LMR posted earlier, the 45-degree -10AN hose ends are now standard, so they have been left off of this list.
On the other end, you will need a T or Y adapter to split between the oil reservoir and the passenger-side rocker PCV fitting - you could use a cheap 3/8" T adapter and use clamps, etc. - I did that at first, but I wanted it to be dressier, as it's a nice showpiece.
For reference, this is for a supercharged C7, not turbocharged. These are all Jegs part numbers:
555-110312 | -6AN Flare Cap | $4.69 | Qty: 1

361-AT982406 | -6AN AnoTuff T Fitting | $13.99 | Qty: 1

555-110001 | -6AN Straight Hose End | $5.99 | Qty: 3

555-103301 | #6 Hose Finisher | $5.99 | Qty: 2

555-110011 | -6AN 45-Degree Hose End | $15.99 | Qty: 1

555-110911 | ProFlo 350 Braided Hose -6AN 6-Foot | $31.99 | Qty: 1

Total part cost is $96.61 shipped from Jegs. Up to you on the value side of things, but the improvement in looks, alone, was enough to spend the extra money.
Keep in mind that even if you don't go this route, you will need to source a T-line and hose or fuel clamps.

And finally, a diagrammed look at these parts...

On another note, I dropped my breather off a few hours ago to have it powder coated in a semi-gloss wrinkle black (same as the Paxton black). Cost me $75 and will be done in two days (so Tuesday).
Seemed like a fair price since they had to mask off some of the barbs and plug the holes. Probably a little high, but what do I know? Anybody think that I got screwed on that, or is that pretty normal?
...
Last edited by Theta; Mar 29, 2014 at 05:00 AM.
The 'blank' areas were taped for threading, and solid sealing of the filters if the powder had a problem with the silicone seal. All on-purpose and covered as you see!



Attachment 48373079

The 'blank' areas were taped for threading, and solid sealing of the filters if the powder had a problem with the silicone seal. All on-purpose and covered as you see!






Last edited by slief; Apr 2, 2014 at 10:55 PM.












