LMR Breather Can Unboxing / Install Notes Thread
#62
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St. Jude Donor '14-'15
All done (along with everything else)!
I spent a lot of time making the perfect mounting setup for it, so I'll explain more in detail tomorrow with some pretty cool pics.
I spent a lot of time making the perfect mounting setup for it, so I'll explain more in detail tomorrow with some pretty cool pics.
#63
Le Mans Master
I cannot stand the smell of the crankcase oil especially on a brand new car. That would be my only issue with this setup if that were to be the case.
#64
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St. Jude Donor '14-'15
I know exactly what you're talking about though.
#65
Drifting
On the LMR unit, if the PCV system is eliminated, where does the suction come from to pull all of the contaminated particles, gases, etc out of the crankcase?
I pulled my hose off of my catch can today to check my system and there is quite a bit of suction going on there.
I pulled my hose off of my catch can today to check my system and there is quite a bit of suction going on there.
#68
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St. Jude Donor '14-'15
Actually, I'm also interested in knowing now!
I talked to Doug about it before buying it, and he had some interesting insight back from his aviation days. Air and fluid dynamics is far from my field, though. I'm more comfortable with circuits and mechanical engineering.
I talked to Doug about it before buying it, and he had some interesting insight back from his aviation days. Air and fluid dynamics is far from my field, though. I'm more comfortable with circuits and mechanical engineering.
#69
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St. Jude Donor '14-'15
Just got off the phone with Reid @ LMR - It's what I thought. On a FI car, you're using the enhanced positive pressure as opposed to vacuum. I can't imagine anyone using these on N/A cars, but that's just me.
On a side note, he said they're going to start offering these in a black finish as well! Sounds like a lot more people liked it than I even thought would!
On a side note, he said they're going to start offering these in a black finish as well! Sounds like a lot more people liked it than I even thought would!
#72
Drifting
But what happens when you are
not running boost? The car is only producing boost under high loads.
Btw I'm not trying to be an *** I'm just trying to understand how their system works.
not running boost? The car is only producing boost under high loads.
Btw I'm not trying to be an *** I'm just trying to understand how their system works.
#73
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St. Jude Donor '14-'15
No worries - I just don't have a lot of answers. I think LMR would be much better suited to answer the question(s) as otherwise I'm just guessing and relaying info.
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St. Jude Donor '14-'15
There isn't any way to install it without welding.
LMR sells the valley covers pre-welded now. You can order a set to ship with your breather.
LMR sells the valley covers pre-welded now. You can order a set to ship with your breather.
#77
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St. Jude Donor '14-'15
The welding was the hardest part - I had to go to a very skilled welder to get it done correctly.
I would absolutely buy them pre-done - MUCH easier. Just swap them over - no leaks (gasket prevents that) reported by anyone.
I would absolutely buy them pre-done - MUCH easier. Just swap them over - no leaks (gasket prevents that) reported by anyone.
#78
Thanks,i just emailed them to ask about the valve covers welded.
I just ordered the lmr catch can today.
Maybe tomorrow i will go see the vette,he started working on it today morning.a&a supercharger
I just ordered the lmr catch can today.
Maybe tomorrow i will go see the vette,he started working on it today morning.a&a supercharger
#79
The front bolt is easy to install there is a lip you can tighten the nut,but how can you install the rear bolt?a mechanic said there are screws that dont need a nut.is there a easy way to install it with a bolt & nut
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St. Jude Donor '14-'15
The flange closest to the driver is easy - there's a lip right there to drill into and put a bolt/nut onto.
The front is a little more difficult. It requires you to either remove the front wheel well and really squeeze your hand in a tight space, or drill (I used a diamond-tipped 1/2" hole cutter) a small hole adjacent to where the bolt will go. That way, you can slide a nut onto the bolt and tighten it.
The issue with using screws on poly-carbonate is the cracking factor. Drilled holed can be covered or grommet'ed - cracks will always show or at least weaken the area you're working with.
The front is a little more difficult. It requires you to either remove the front wheel well and really squeeze your hand in a tight space, or drill (I used a diamond-tipped 1/2" hole cutter) a small hole adjacent to where the bolt will go. That way, you can slide a nut onto the bolt and tighten it.
The issue with using screws on poly-carbonate is the cracking factor. Drilled holed can be covered or grommet'ed - cracks will always show or at least weaken the area you're working with.