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LMR Breather Can Unboxing / Install Notes Thread

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Old 04-02-2014, 10:35 PM
  #61  
Theta
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St. Jude Donor '14-'15
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On it right now!
Old 04-03-2014, 04:40 AM
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All done (along with everything else)!

I spent a lot of time making the perfect mounting setup for it, so I'll explain more in detail tomorrow with some pretty cool pics.
Old 04-03-2014, 08:16 AM
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NICK YOSKIN
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I cannot stand the smell of the crankcase oil especially on a brand new car. That would be my only issue with this setup if that were to be the case.
Old 04-03-2014, 12:19 PM
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St. Jude Donor '14-'15
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Originally Posted by NICK YOSKIN
I cannot stand the smell of the crankcase oil especially on a brand new car. That would be my only issue with this setup if that were to be the case.
I'm hoping that's not the case, either. From those I've spoken to that have the breather, there doesn't seem to be an issue.

I know exactly what you're talking about though.
Old 04-03-2014, 02:41 PM
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On the LMR unit, if the PCV system is eliminated, where does the suction come from to pull all of the contaminated particles, gases, etc out of the crankcase?

I pulled my hose off of my catch can today to check my system and there is quite a bit of suction going on there.
Old 04-03-2014, 02:42 PM
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I would think positive pressure, but I'm no expert. That's something Reid or anyone else should jump in on.
Old 04-03-2014, 03:01 PM
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I would think actual suction going to force more flow than just positive pressure? I'm curious to know.
Old 04-03-2014, 03:22 PM
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Actually, I'm also interested in knowing now!

I talked to Doug about it before buying it, and he had some interesting insight back from his aviation days. Air and fluid dynamics is far from my field, though. I'm more comfortable with circuits and mechanical engineering.
Old 04-03-2014, 03:40 PM
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Just got off the phone with Reid @ LMR - It's what I thought. On a FI car, you're using the enhanced positive pressure as opposed to vacuum. I can't imagine anyone using these on N/A cars, but that's just me.

On a side note, he said they're going to start offering these in a black finish as well! Sounds like a lot more people liked it than I even thought would!
Old 04-03-2014, 05:15 PM
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What is "enhanced positive pressure" and how does it work, any idea?
Old 04-03-2014, 05:18 PM
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Just the greater pressure from the FI vs N/A from my understanding.

You're forcing more air through at a rate that scales with PSI.
Old 04-03-2014, 05:28 PM
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But what happens when you are
not running boost? The car is only producing boost under high loads.

Btw I'm not trying to be an *** I'm just trying to understand how their system works.
Old 04-03-2014, 05:34 PM
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No worries - I just don't have a lot of answers. I think LMR would be much better suited to answer the question(s) as otherwise I'm just guessing and relaying info.
Old 07-09-2014, 08:43 PM
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I Just ordered the lmr catch can.
How can i install it without the welding part you did?
Is there a new version of it now?if not
Whats the easiest to bolt it without welding?
Old 07-09-2014, 08:44 PM
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There isn't any way to install it without welding.

LMR sells the valley covers pre-welded now. You can order a set to ship with your breather.
Old 07-09-2014, 09:01 PM
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It is easy to remove the covers to weld them,no problems later with oil leaks?

LMR sells the valley covers pre-welded now----price?
Old 07-09-2014, 09:08 PM
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The welding was the hardest part - I had to go to a very skilled welder to get it done correctly.

I would absolutely buy them pre-done - MUCH easier. Just swap them over - no leaks (gasket prevents that) reported by anyone.

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Old 07-09-2014, 09:11 PM
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Thanks,i just emailed them to ask about the valve covers welded.
I just ordered the lmr catch can today.
Maybe tomorrow i will go see the vette,he started working on it today morning.a&a supercharger
Old 07-13-2014, 10:47 PM
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The front bolt is easy to install there is a lip you can tighten the nut,but how can you install the rear bolt?a mechanic said there are screws that dont need a nut.is there a easy way to install it with a bolt & nut
Old 07-14-2014, 12:02 AM
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The flange closest to the driver is easy - there's a lip right there to drill into and put a bolt/nut onto.

The front is a little more difficult. It requires you to either remove the front wheel well and really squeeze your hand in a tight space, or drill (I used a diamond-tipped 1/2" hole cutter) a small hole adjacent to where the bolt will go. That way, you can slide a nut onto the bolt and tighten it.

The issue with using screws on poly-carbonate is the cracking factor. Drilled holed can be covered or grommet'ed - cracks will always show or at least weaken the area you're working with.


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