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That's... way beyond the scope of this. Good luck with making that work, buy you're deep into DIY territory there. B&B would need to make you a custom system that is made to C7 specs with the valves from a C6 (or better yet, just use cutouts)...
You would be better off doing cutouts with a wireless remote if you're going to try to re-fab a C7 system with C6 valves. Makes more sense from a financial and fabrication aspect.
I don't know if you made any additional progress on the relay setup, or just decided on a switch.
I was wondering if the fuse box cover is orderable as a separate part, and its cost. I was thinking about some relay experiments, or just mounting a SPST switch right on the cover. Figured if I bought a second cover, I could make (grometted, watertight) holes, etc. and still have the original for service dept visits.
Thanks,
Ed
Ed, finally got around to this - the cover is a whopping $14.24 retail with a $10.69 counter price.
Part number: 22844452
So feel free to hack away at it without fear of breaking the bank. I love cheap, replaceable parts. It's the tiny parts that cost hundreds that I hate modding!
Ed, finally got around to this - the cover is a whopping $14.24 retail with a $10.69 counter price.
Part number: 22844452
So feel free to hack away at it without fear of breaking the bank. I love cheap, replaceable parts. It's the tiny parts that cost hundreds that I hate modding!
Thanks!
Time to start experimenting with an on-cover switch. I'm not crazy about routing wires to the interior so a switch under the hood should be good for me. Results to be posted!
Time to start experimenting with an on-cover switch. I'm not crazy about routing wires to the interior so a switch under the hood should be good for me. Results to be posted!
Ed
Ed, it's not too bad to get them into the cabin. The wireless idea I had petered out because of interference. I don't know what is causing it, but two different modules (good ones, mind you) can't get the remote signal from inside the cockpit unless an antenna wire is fished through, defeating the purpose.
I do have to ask, though... if you're going to put a switch on the cover, it will save your nails from pulling it out, but you still have the get out and pop the ole' hood to do so. Not the most convenient setup. Also, take note to use a switch (SPST) on the side of the box - the top nearly contacts the hood.
Ed, it's not too bad to get them into the cabin. The wireless idea I had petered out because of interference. I don't know what is causing it, but two different modules (good ones, mind you) can't get the remote signal from inside the cockpit unless an antenna wire is fished through, defeating the purpose.
I do have to ask, though... if you're going to put a switch on the cover, it will save your nails from pulling it out, but you still have the get out and pop the ole' hood to do so. Not the most convenient setup. Also, take note to use a switch (SPST) on the side of the box - the top nearly contacts the hood.
Theta,
I appreciate your thoughts!
I was thinking of putting a grommetted wire out the side with a connector (like a trailer hitch connector or something. Then, I could make a small box to experiment for the switch, relay or remote relay, if I can find one to work.
You'd think a retired guy like me would have the time to get this done quickly, but....
I've got NPP and what I really need is the ability to force the valves closed while in track mode as I've had issues passing sound control (90 db) at one of my local race tracks, Laguna Seca. Sounds like pulling the fuse is the opposite of what I need. Hopefully there is a M2W type solution for the C7 soon.
I tried an experiment a while ago where I pulled fuse 41 and let my daughter drive the car while I followed behind her. All I can say is regardless of how the active sound management is set and the mode (Eco, touring, sport,...), the car sounds like a broken down farm tractor from behind. Maybe there is some drone and loudness inside but outside on the road the car sounds like complete crap. So the fuse went back in. Pulling that fuse ruins the cars sound for a car behind the vette. Don't believe me, try it and listen.
I tried an experiment a while ago where I pulled fuse 41 and let my daughter drive the car while I followed behind her. All I can say is regardless of how the active sound management is set and the mode (Eco, touring, sport,...), the car sounds like a broken down farm tractor from behind. Maybe there is some drone and loudness inside but outside on the road the car sounds like complete crap. So the fuse went back in. Pulling that fuse ruins the cars sound for a car behind the vette. Don't believe me, try it and listen.
Is yours an automatic where AFM is kicking in? That would result in the less than stellar sound you speak of. With the fuse pulled and in Track on the M7 it sounds great ALL the time.
Is yours an automatic where AFM is kicking in? That would result in the less than stellar sound you speak of. With the fuse pulled and in Track on the M7 it sounds great ALL the time.
Yes mine is an automatic. It's strange because my C6 grand sport which has the mild to wild actually sounds good, but the C7 sounds horrible. I am guessing that there is no way to bypass the AFM?
Yes mine is an automatic. It's strange because my C6 grand sport which has the mild to wild actually sounds good, but the C7 sounds horrible. I am guessing that there is no way to bypass the AFM?
My brother experienced the same thing as you in his automatic after pulling the fuse and I completely agree with you. When following behind the car it sounds horrible.
The only way to bypass would be turning it off with a handheld tuner such as Diablo or getting a real tune done on the vehicle. If concerned about voiding warranty the Diablo is the better solution. And besides being able to tune that out you'll notice dramatic improvements in the shifting and feel driving the car.
I just acquired a Z51 MN7.
I LOVE loud sound... I had Corsa Extremes on my C6.
So, I have set the Sound Management to "off".
I was under the impression from reading all the posts here, that the valves will ALWAYS stay open, in this mode.
I just acquired a Z51 MN7.
I LOVE loud sound... I had Corsa Extremes on my C6.
So, I have set the Sound Management to "off".
I was under the impression from reading all the posts here, that the valves will ALWAYS stay open, in this mode.
If this is the case, then why pull fuse 41 ?
This question continues to come up again and again, so I'll reply with the same answer as always:
Even with Sound Management set to 'off', the valves will still actuate in a few different scenarios (by design).
The fuse-pull eliminates the tip-in/1800rpm opening in Track, and removes the 2800rpm tip-in delay in Sport allowing the valves to truly remain open at all times.
It's a quick test to hear the difference, as well. Some don't like the low drone, others want max sound.
This question continues to come up again and again, so I'll reply with the same answer as always:
Even with Sound Management set to 'off', the valves will still actuate in a few different scenarios (by design).
The fuse-pull eliminates the tip-in/1800rpm opening in Track, and removes the 2800rpm tip-in delay in Sport allowing the valves to truly remain open at all times.
It's a quick test to hear the difference, as well. Some don't like the low drone, others want max sound.
Thank you Theta....
A short, concise, understandable answer.
I updated my OP with a list I compiled for another thread. Please comment on the list so I can update as needed. Long info threads like this end up being too hard to parse out the important stuff.
lol just saw this thread. Why not just hook this up to fuse 41 and switch it on and off when you want? There are a couple of other products like this when I was into car pc's, but it's all the same concept. Switchable fuse.
I'm looking for a way to have the valves always closed in track mode.
This track has a nose restriction i keep going over
Interesting. That would require powering them at all times. This is the exact issue that has remained unresolved to my knowledge. You will see this discussed earlier in this thread as well, but in the context of manual control. The switching is on the low side, so you can't override the switching by pulling switched power from another circuit.
On a simpler solution, is there a reason inserting plugs in the outer tips wouldn't work? There's no flow through them with the valves closed; all the flow is through the inner tips. Not sure if the additional back pressure would do anything other than reduce power a small amount. It may take some doing to keep them in place in race conditions.