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Looking for suggestions on best catch can for a NA C7. Guessing I do not have to spend $700-800 to do it right on a non-boosted engine? Thanks in advance!
Thanks, I went ahead and ordered one from E2. I did open up my air box to check for oil. No signs of oily residue yet, but I only had 500 miles on it. I suppose this is somewhat cheap insurance and I can feel a little safer running the RPM's up now.
has anyone with a wet sump had an oily intake yet? the stock Pcv system is way better than previous models. it has two fresh air lines and I don't see oil pushing out the fresh air lines like in the past when it only has half the pressure now per line.
an overfilled dry sump will of course just take the path of least resistance, like we have seen....almost like a cooling system with the reservoir.....only in this case the reservoir is the intake tube.
if you have a na application I think you will be wasting your money on a catch can on an LTx.
Don't bet on it! When my stock intake came off it had a 1/4 cup of oil in. I run my oil at 9.5 quarts now!
like I said, overfilled dry sump.
has anyone with a wet sump that isn't susceptible to puking oil had oil collect in their intake tube? this means oil pushing out the fresh air tubes.....
From: I live my life by 2 rules. 1) Never share everything you know. 2)
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13, '16-'17-'18
Originally Posted by Higgs Boson
like I said, overfilled dry sump.
has anyone with a wet sump that isn't susceptible to puking oil had oil collect in their intake tube? this means oil pushing out the fresh air tubes.....
what I am saying is that the dry sump clearly has puke issues and the wet sump does not. so the catch can is not going to matter in that regard. a catch can "catches" crankcase vapors which is a totally separate issue. I don't see the wet sump cars having an actual pcv issue so I don't see a catch can as necessary. rocknblue's point is moot as the dry sump puke is not a catch can vs pcv issue.
I thought catch cans are irrelevant to dry sump clean side oil puking which I think is what Higgs Boson is saying. On the clean side, some people seem to be running an oil separator on the air bridge at the dry sump tank, although RX is the only brand I've seen for the C7. Not sure it's necessary - I pulled my air intake from the throttle body at 800 km after break in and it was dry as a bone. But haven't pulled it since (after several WOT runs). I'm careful with oil level.
On the dirty side (intake manifold to intake), should a catch can be run? I know people in the Audi world with DI have been doing it for years to try to address the intake valve coking issue, but I don't think you would see any difference if you pulled your intake and just looked inside. So how do people know if this is an issue with the LT1?
On the dirty side (intake manifold to intake), should a catch can be run? how do people know if this is an issue with the LT1?
This is what remains to be seen. Not a lot of collective miles on the LTx yet.... I pull the U tube and check the best I can and it seems to always be clean/dry....so far.
I din't know what the general concensus is about a NA Z51, but I've poured about 12 oz. of oil outta the intake plastics that are in front of the throttle body. I believe it comes to a point with the startup logic, cold start logic, & the ECM's commanded idle rpm. When the vehicle is started, the dry sump starts pumping the oil outta the pan & throwing back up into the reservoir it's passing right beside the PCV plumbing ports located at the top of the reservoir. Unfortunately a high idle (such as a cold start) is gonna give some of your highest vacuum pressure inbetween the air filter & throttle body. once the oil get on the air filter this exacerbates the problem & you suck more oil.
I can't see GM redesigning the oil reservoir top to relocate the PCV ports, but they might be able to minimize the issue by lowering startup & cold start rpm's. the best answer (I think....) is to bypass the PCV system altogether, this being a solution GM can not suggest in the slightest.
I don't about anyone else, but I got rid of my diesel's because I was tired of paying through the nose $1000's for EPA driven systems that are thrown together, very delicate, have poor durability, & only after the customer has purchased do they release the maintenance schedule for these systems. It's a lot like those stupid gas cans at wally world, I've never wasted so much gas in my life as I have in the past 3-4 years because of those new gas cans. I can spend my money elsewhere on the environment & be a whole lot more effective than this PCV system would ever be over the life of the vehicle.
What a load of (crap) or misinformation, whichever suits you.
nice C6 you have there. catch cans work on the ls motors for sure......the C7 does not have an LS motor. things change. the pcv system is night and day different now.
has anyone with a wet sump had an oily intake yet? the stock Pcv system is way better than previous models. it has two fresh air lines and I don't see oil pushing out the fresh air lines like in the past when it only has half the pressure now per line.
an overfilled dry sump will of course just take the path of least resistance, like we have seen....almost like a cooling system with the reservoir.....only in this case the reservoir is the intake tube.
if you have a na application I think you will be wasting your money on a catch can on an LTx.
Not really! There is an oil problem even on stock dry sumps!
Not really! There is an oil problem even on stock dry sumps!
The dry sump problem is due to overfilling and puking. Not PCV, which pulls air out of the crankcase. Makes me glad I have a wet sump. My intake manifold and intake tube are dry as dinosaur bones.
But I guess as George Costanza once said, "They're all tubes, Jerry!"