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Old May 26, 2014 | 08:02 PM
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Default NPP Help!

I have the actuator's wired with the power to pin 4 ground to pin 1 and 2. Got it to spin so I installed and now it doesn't seem to want work!

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Old May 26, 2014 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Rock'n Blue 08
I have the actuator's wired with the power to pin 4 ground to pin 1 and 2. Got it to spin so I installed and now it doesn't seem to want work!

Check your connections again? Maybe something got loose??
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Old May 26, 2014 | 10:24 PM
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Exactly. If you have confirmation of it working (which you saw), it's time to check the connections.

You didn't burn anything out, so it's probably something as simple as a loose connector.
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Old May 26, 2014 | 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Theta
Exactly. If you have confirmation of it working (which you saw), it's time to check the connections.

You didn't burn anything out, so it's probably something as simple as a loose connector.
nope I took it out and tested something else is missing!
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Old May 26, 2014 | 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Rock'n Blue 08
nope I took it out and tested something else is missing!

Have you modified the mild to wild that lea customs originally built to work differently for what you are trying to do?? That is provide a - (ground) to pin 2 to close the valves. I will assume you have a + 12 v to pin 4 & - 12 (ground) to pin 1?....Also it appears from Sean's schematic provided that there is a factory jumper on each NPP valve at pins 3&5,being your car was not originally equipped with NPP and I will assume that the harness is not there at each valve by mufflers check and make sure u have that jumper shorting back pins 3& 5 at each valve.


Ron

Last edited by vetehead; May 27, 2014 at 12:07 AM.
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Old May 26, 2014 | 11:29 PM
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If I remember correctly Ed had them built plug and play to the c6 fuse box & a ground ring....he made them to switch the NPP fuse on & off at the c6 inside fuse box???
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Old May 26, 2014 | 11:50 PM
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is it possible to put them on where they can get jammed or indexed wrong?

Do both actuators only have 4 pins and are you 100% sure all the actuators are the same part number? Wiring diagram shows 5 pins on the rear actuators, that may be an early revision though.

Are they turning in the right direction to close the valve when you apply power?
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Old May 26, 2014 | 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by kp
is it possible to put them on where they can get jammed or indexed wrong?

Do both actuators only have 4 pins and are you 100% sure all the actuators are the same part number? Wiring diagram shows 5 pins on the rear actuators, that may be an early revision though.

Are they turning in the right direction to close the valve when you apply power?
Pins 3 & 5 not used on the NPP valves...
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Old May 27, 2014 | 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by vetehead
Pins 3 & 5 not used on the NPP valves...
If you look at the wiring diagram pin 3 and 5 have a jumper on the NPP valves.

The pictures that were posted in an earlier thread only had 4 pins which are what the front valves show in the wiring diagram.

Just making sure that all the valves are the same like posted earlier, possible the front and rear valves may turn in a different direction.
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Old May 27, 2014 | 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by kp
If you look at the wiring diagram pin 3 and 5 have a jumper on the NPP valves.

The pictures that were posted in an earlier thread only had 4 pins which are what the front valves show in the wiring diagram.

Just making sure that all the valves are the same like posted earlier, possible the front and rear valves may turn in a different direction.
I'm not the OP just trying to help,as I know the maker/creator of the original Mild to Wild device.....I believe the new NPP valves by design are spring loaded in the open position. The CCM on an original equipped c7 with NPP provides a PWM signal to pin 2 to adjust the level of open position. The OP is just trying to use the mild to wild device to simply open & close the NPP valves on a c7 that did not have the OEM option that he has since then added.
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Old May 27, 2014 | 12:37 AM
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That's good to know - I knew the M2W ran more than a simple relay, but it's nice to have confirmation.

My 'design' on this was a simple wireless on/off relay, which while it worked, was less reliable than just a simple (fused) wired switch solution. Not rocket science since these are either open or closed.

Neat that the C6 actually was able to control relative position of the blade (like a QTP cutout, etc).
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Old May 27, 2014 | 12:43 AM
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Originally Posted by vetehead
I'm not the OP just trying to help,as I know the maker/creator of the original Mild to Wild device.....I believe the new NPP valves by design are spring loaded in the open position. The CCM on an original equipped c7 with NPP provides a PWM signal to pin 2 to adjust the level of open position. The OP is just trying to use the mild to wild device to simply open & close the NPP valves on a c7 that did not have the OEM option that he has since then added.
I know what he is doing from an earlier post, just making sure all the actuators are the same. The OP posted pics of a 4 pin actuator earlier, and the wiring diagram shows 4 and 5 pin, like I said that may have changed in production and all actuators are 4 pin.

If the actuator moves you would think it would close the valve..
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Old May 27, 2014 | 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by vetehead
Have you modified the mild to wild that lea customs originally built to work differently for what you are trying to do?? That is provide a - (ground) to pin 2 to close the valves. I will assume you have a + 12 v to pin 4 & - 12 (ground) to pin 1?....Also it appears from Sean's schematic provided that there is a factory jumper on each NPP valve at pins 3&5,being your car was not originally equipped with NPP and I will assume that the harness is not there at each valve by mufflers check and make sure u have that jumper shorting back pins 3& 5 at each valve.


Ron
I used a fuse link tapping power to the pin 4. Then pin 1 to ground
and it moves. But like it has short. I got both to move testing but when they on the car they won't.
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Old May 27, 2014 | 12:49 AM
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Bad ground on the car?
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Old May 27, 2014 | 12:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Theta
That's good to know - I knew the M2W ran more than a simple relay, but it's nice to have confirmation.

My 'design' on this was a simple wireless on/off relay, which while it worked, was less reliable than just a simple (fused) wired switch solution. Not rocket science since these are either open or closed.

Neat that the C6 actually was able to control relative position of the blade (like a QTP cutout, etc).
Sean,I had one on my 08 I believe it just plugged into the npp fuse slot the npp fuse plugged right back into the harness from the mild to wild (piggy back) and there was a ground ring that connected right to the nearest ground by fuse box. There was a 0 draw version that was optional wiring with instructions included with the unit also!! So obviously the op would have had to modify the original build of the unit to be switching the negative to close the electric valves.
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Old May 27, 2014 | 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Rock'n Blue 08
I used a fuse link tapping power to the pin 4. Then pin 1 to ground
and it moves. But like it has short. I got both to move testing but when they on the car they won't.
What are you doing with pins 2,3,5 at each valve?
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Old May 27, 2014 | 01:01 AM
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I wish I wasn't working on a critical case right now or I'd go yank one off and start testing for you.
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Old May 27, 2014 | 01:43 AM
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Originally Posted by vetehead
What are you doing with pins 2,3,5 at each valve?
I can get it to turn by tapping the ground to pin 1.
2,3, 5 are unhooked Tried to get it with pin 2 with power and ground neither helped!
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Old May 27, 2014 | 01:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Rock'n Blue 08
I can get it to turn by tapping the ground to pin 1.
2,3, 5 are unhooked Tried to get it with pin 2 with power and ground neither helped!
Pin 4 needs to have 12 + constant pin 1 needs to have 12 - constant,3& 5 should be jumped together as per schematic and theN apply 12- to pin 2 to close valve. This is how the valve is designed to work electrically as per the schematic.

Hope this gets you working!
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Old May 27, 2014 | 02:32 AM
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Originally Posted by vetehead
Pin 4 needs to have 12 + constant pin 1 needs to have 12 - constant,3& 5 should be jumped together as per schematic and theN apply 12- to pin 2 to close valve. This is how the valve is designed to work electrically as per the schematic.

Hope this gets you working!
Mine just have 1-4 pins on the actuators. I tried all combo's!
Looks like it takes a pulse modulation to number 2. With 12v to 4
and ground to 1. By playing with it will turn but not with just 12v.
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