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On edit: I don't remember needing to remove the starter to get the Kooks installed, so you should be good too. Mine is a 2015 Z51.
I did mine using race ramps in the front and some wooden blocks to keep the rear off the ground along with multiple jack stands to keep things safe. It was still low enough in the front to access components in the engine compartment:
are you saying or showing us you gained 30 hp ? is this with or without a tune, i don t want to tune yet. if it is not tuned what would you predict, 15hp maybe ?
Nope, I've never said/claimed to gain 30 HP. I never dyno'd it stock and haven't dyno'd it after the header install so I have no data to claim a net gain. Additionally, I'm running the stock tune still. I believe that I have read instances on the forum where guys have claimed a 15 or so HP gain with just the addition of the headers with stock tune. Even if you gained 15 HP, that's a little over a 3 % gain. Quarter mile times and dyno measurements might measure the increase, but I don't think the butt dyno is sensitive enough to feel it. I know that I can't feel it. I only added my headers to make it sound better.
Right on. I didn't mean to insinuate that you made 30 horse I read too many threads on this song I was just asking more or less but to spend that kind of money for 15 horse I don't know if it's worth that
You really need a tune to get the most out of a header install. Since the dealer will flag your car anyway if you have any drive train Warrenty claims you should just pull the trigger and do a tune.
Right on. I didn't mean to insinuate that you made 30 horse I read too many threads on this song I was just asking more or less but to spend that kind of money for 15 horse I don't know if it's worth that
I gotcha...I was hoping that I hadn't misstated something on here.
The cost is definitely not worth it for 15 HP, but for me it was worth it for the beautiful exhaust sound. It puts a smile on my face every time I mash the throttle...
You really need a tune to get the most out of a header install. Since the dealer will flag your car anyway if you have any drive train Warrenty claims you should just pull the trigger and do a tune.
You are spot on with respect to getting the most HP increase with the tune. From the various hearsay on the forums, I've gathered that if you have a tune, there's pretty much a 100 % guarantee that they will flag your warranty. If you have mods but no tune, I've gathered that there is still a chance they will honor your warranty. For me, it isn't worth tuning it at this point for the HP increase and 100 % chance of warranty denial.
I agree somewhat, i have 20k km on it in a year, and am thinking if i have had no problems with km in a year, i think i am good to go. But would like to see 30 or so + to.make it worthwhile to me
I agree somewhat, i have 20k km on it in a year, and am thinking if i have had no problems with km in a year, i think i am good to go. But would like to see 30 or so + to.make it worthwhile to me
Ok so got everything in place but I have a small gap on the drivers side between the header and mid pipe which is enough to cause a small leak. Doesn't seem like there is much more room to move the pipe any. Does anyone have an ideas or maybe I am missing something. If someone could possibly post a pic of there install under the car might help out as well. I am gonna fool around with it when I get off to see if I can figure it out.
It took me several tries of putting the mid pipe on and taking it off to get it right. I ended up pulling the joint at the x-pipe apart slightly to move the entire mid-pipe closer to the header. I then adjusted the left and right cat pipes individually to get them to line up with the header. My driver's side had a great connection and my passenger side had a good fit, but it wasn't perfect. I had an exhaust leak at that joint so I ended up buying RTV gasket maker to help seal up the connection. Been good to go ever since. I ended up using the RTV gasket maker on several connection points to seal exhaust leaks.
It took me several tries of putting the mid pipe on and taking it off to get it right. I ended up pulling the joint at the x-pipe apart slightly to move the entire mid-pipe closer to the header. I then adjusted the left and right cat pipes individually to get them to line up with the header. My driver's side had a great connection and my passenger side had a good fit, but it wasn't perfect. I had an exhaust leak at that joint so I ended up buying RTV gasket maker to help seal up the connection. Been good to go ever since. I ended up using the RTV gasket maker on several connection points to seal exhaust leaks.
Thanks for the tip, do you have any pics of how you actual and where you applied the gasket?
Ok so got everything in place but I have a small gap on the drivers side between the header and mid pipe which is enough to cause a small leak. Doesn't seem like there is much more room to move the pipe any. Does anyone have an ideas or maybe I am missing something. If someone could possibly post a pic of there install under the car might help out as well. I am gonna fool around with it when I get off to see if I can figure it out.
How big is the gap? When you put the ball type clamp on does it pull it tight?
Mine did the same thing and I had to pull the mid pipe and tighten the header clamp would have been nice to have a helper.
One of the biggest reasons I love kooks as that ball and socket connection is much better than a slip fit imho...
Last edited by brettmess24; Oct 12, 2017 at 10:21 PM.
i would like to know how you get the damn O2 sensors disconnected. impossible to reach from the top and too tight to in from the bottom, you take the cat off first and lower it down ?
i would like to know how you get the damn O2 sensors disconnected. impossible to reach from the top and too tight to in from the bottom, you take the cat off first and lower it down ?
I lowered the cats to get them out. I put the cat in a vice and used a breaker bar. There is a special socket you can use to remove the O2 sensors.
i would like to know how you get the damn O2 sensors disconnected. impossible to reach from the top and too tight to in from the bottom, you take the cat off first and lower it down ?
It is tight there if you can get your hands up by the O2s. They are attached to a plastic clip. If you can get that clip off that will drop the wires some. Then push up on the grey plastic clip, then disconnect the wires. Once they are disconnected you can drop the headers. Just be patient and not rush it so you don’t damage the wires.
Wow hopefully everything works out and I can get them on fairly quickly. I am so ready to hear the difference.
