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Old Apr 30, 2018 | 10:41 PM
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Default Need to fix body roll

stock c7 with z51 pack. rear bar removed for grip with Z06 areo. with 18x10.5 square with 285 re71 square. (these tires are class rules cant be changed) grinding the sides of my car away. was thinking front sway bar afe?. maybe zo7 leaf springs. i need someone that really gets these cars.
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Old Apr 30, 2018 | 11:42 PM
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Stock c7 as in base suspension? If so, yeah the rear has no swaybar at all and the front bar could use an upgrade with the stiffer bushings.

I upgraded to the Z51 swaybars and it made a big difference. You can swap the shocks as well to the Z51 version and should stiffen the whole setup fairly well for track use.

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Old May 1, 2018 | 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by falcon5619
Stock c7 as in base suspension? If so, yeah the rear has no swaybar at all and the front bar could use an upgrade with the stiffer bushings.

I upgraded to the Z51 swaybars and it made a big difference. You can swap the shocks as well to the Z51 version and should stiffen the whole setup fairly well for track use.
thank you for the input forgot to list it was a z51. thanks for that catch
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Old May 1, 2018 | 12:20 AM
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Originally Posted by joshuagtp56
stock c7 with z51 pack. rear bar removed for grip with Z06 areo. with 18x10.5 square with 285 re71 square. (these tires are class rules cant be changed) grinding the sides of my car away. was thinking front sway bar afe?. maybe zo7 leaf springs. i need someone that really gets these cars.
I would ping LG Motorsports they offer different options for your issue.
They also have mucho experience on setting up track/race cars...
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Old May 1, 2018 | 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by joshuagtp56
thank you for the input forgot to list it was a z51. thanks for that catch
Your car is a Z51? Are you in tour mode? If it is a Z51, and not in tour, I’d get your shocks checked. Did you buy the car New or used?
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Old May 1, 2018 | 05:29 AM
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My (non-MRC) Z51 was pretty soft before I switched to much stiffer coilovers and sway bars. It was ok up to 275/305 tires, but turned into a boat with 315/325 tire combo.

Anyhow, I don't know what you are allowed to change, but I'd definitely put back the sway bar, and even change both of them with a much stiffer one. Compared to how much you're currently losing with the transitions, you will give up miniscule amounts of traction.

Here is a great article about how sway bars can help you to get to a winning combination:
https://www.windingroad.com/articles...-or-bad-thing/

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Old May 1, 2018 | 06:53 AM
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Why did you remove the rear sway bar after adding the Z06 aero. Are you having serious oversteer issues? It appears that you have at least a stage 2 spoiler with a stage 1 splitter, which means you already have more rear traction than front. Removing the rear sway bar would only serve to increase the rear traction further.

Am I missing something?
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Old May 1, 2018 | 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by irvbulldogs72
Why did you remove the rear sway bar after adding the Z06 aero. Are you having serious oversteer issues? It appears that you have at least a stage 2 spoiler with a stage 1 splitter, which means you already have more rear traction than front. Removing the rear sway bar would only serve to increase the rear traction further.

Am I missing something?
Probably talking about lower speed grip. The factory aero won't due much under 100 mph.

Last edited by subieworx; May 1, 2018 at 08:41 AM.
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Old May 1, 2018 | 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by X25
My (non-MRC) Z51 was pretty soft before I switched to much stiffer coilovers and sway bars. It was ok up to 275/305 tires, but turned into a boat with 315/325 tire combo.

Anyhow, I don't know what you are allowed to change, but I'd definitely put back the sway bar, and even change both of them with a much stiffer one. Compared to how much you're currently losing with the transitions, you will give up miniscule amounts of traction.

Here is a great article about how sway bars can help you to get to a winning combination:
https://www.windingroad.com/articles...-or-bad-thing/
which coilover & swaybar setup did you go with?
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Old May 1, 2018 | 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by irvbulldogs72
Why did you remove the rear sway bar after adding the Z06 aero. Are you having serious oversteer issues? It appears that you have at least a stage 2 spoiler with a stage 1 splitter, which means you already have more rear traction than front. Removing the rear sway bar would only serve to increase the rear traction further.

Am I missing something?
i was having a problem with the car coming out of corners over steering. putting the power down was a problem. so i removed the rear bar to increase rear grip at low speeds.
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Old May 1, 2018 | 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by rb185afm
Your car is a Z51? Are you in tour mode? If it is a Z51, and not in tour, I’d get your shocks checked. Did you buy the car New or used?
it is in track mode. and i got it used over the winter
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Old May 1, 2018 | 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by joshuagtp56
i was having a problem with the car coming out of corners over steering. putting the power down was a problem. so i removed the rear bar to increase rear grip at low speeds.
Of course you have body roll now. You would be better off putting the bar back on and looking into other suspension mods to get the grip you are looking for. LG makes all sorts of goodies for the track.

Last edited by Internets_Ninja; May 1, 2018 at 10:57 AM.
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Old May 1, 2018 | 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by joshuagtp56
i was having a problem with the car coming out of corners over steering. putting the power down was a problem. so i removed the rear bar to increase rear grip at low speeds.
That's odd. I am running Toyo R888R 255/35r18 and 295/30r19 on my z51 with DSC sport shock controller and full z06 stage 3 aero, nothing else. I am also leaning quite a bit but no scrapping at all or bottoming out except for dips and crests on the splitter. Car is probably 1/2 way on lowering bolts but running 0.5" lower due to 1 size smaller tires (so i'd say fully lowered in terms of ride height). I am running -2.1 camber front and -1.7 rear, the car is 100% perfectly balanced right now but I could also use less leaning. LG Sway bars are in the future possibly, I just don't want to lose the balance. If it loses grip it will go into a 4 wheel slide mostly. See video below.

Prior to this, I had the car on 245/285 hankooks, z51 aero, dsc sport controller and -2.0 camber front, -1.0 rear and the car was definitely oversteering midcorner and during exits. What are your alignment specs.


Here is 3 good pictures of 100 mph straight (start of vid) vs 40 mph corner (0:23 vid) vs just past this corner's exit at WOT



Last edited by BrunoTheMellow; May 7, 2018 at 02:53 PM.
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Old May 1, 2018 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Southeast Beast
which coilover & swaybar setup did you go with?
I have LG's G7 sway bars. I tried both LG G2 and Penske 8300 coilovers, and they both performed pretty good. LG's coilovers force you to drop at least 1" height due to their inverted design and clearance issues that come with it. I was able to make it work with Penske shocks with only 0.6" drop.

My little sway bar comparo:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1592923126

Last edited by X25; May 1, 2018 at 01:57 PM.
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Old May 1, 2018 | 05:24 PM
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Mag ride or standard shocks? If mag ride the DSC controller might take care of it.
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Old May 1, 2018 | 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by joshuagtp56
stock c7 with z51 pack. rear bar removed for grip with Z06 areo. with 18x10.5 square with 285 re71 square. (these tires are class rules cant be changed) grinding the sides of my car away. was thinking front sway bar afe?. maybe zo7 leaf springs. i need someone that really gets these cars.
Maybe you should add some more detail. What class rules are you talking about? What speeds are you seeing exiting corners? Are these R71 285/30/18s which have a 24.8 in diameter? When you say grinding the sides of the car away are you saying the tires are rubbing the inside of the rear quarters? Which 18x10.5 wheels are you running? C5Z Rear wheels? If not what is the offset? Are you running a spacer? What else have you done with the car.

Square setup will have more of a tendency to oversteer Vs narrower front, larger rear.

Bill
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Old May 1, 2018 | 11:44 PM
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this is what i mean by side of my car. and the are 18x10.5 TSW Nurburgring +65 5x120.65
and tires are. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Bridgestone&tireModel =Potenza+RE-71R&sidewall=Blackwall&partnum=83WR8RE71 R&tab=Sizes

this is at 1.4 to 1.5 g
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Old May 1, 2018 | 11:47 PM
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  1. class rules

    CHASSIS / AERO

    1. All vehicles must retain stock chassis with no fabricated modifications of any kind.
    2. Doors, fenders quarter panels and roof must remain OEM Material.
    3. Bolt on alternate materials may be used for Hood, Trunk and Hard Tops.
    4. Aftermarket aero is prohibited. Modifications to OEM bumpers to enhance airflow are permitted, but only partial removal of material, not addition.
    5. Stock or factory optional aero is allowed if available (this includes aftermarket replica aero and EDM / JDM optional components ie: Replica SiR spoiler etc).
    6. Factory optional aero components at the rear of the vehicle may not be higher than the highest point of the vehicle structure. Radio antennas are not considered part of the vehicle structure. Height provisions allowed for hatchbacks and wagons when using factory components will be reviewed on a case by case basis. Custom uprights for factory optional aero is prohibited.
    7. Non OEM Flat pan floors are prohibited.
    8. Lexan glass is prohibited, except in instances of aftermarket hard tops (eg. S2000, etc. ) if sold with lexan as only option
  2. ENGINE / DRIVETRAIN

    1. Dogboxes / sequential gearboxes prohibited unless OEM
    2. Alternative fuels, such as E85, are not permitted.
    3. Mixed manufacturer engine swaps are not permitted e.g., K swapped Miata.
    4. Engine swaps are permitted but must be from the same chassis, e.g., B16 into eg civic is permitted but B18C is not. Any questions on engines swaps should be directed to Gridlife staff (abrin@grid.life and adam@grid.life).
    5. Swaps with increased cylinder numbers are prohibited, e.g., V6 Accord motor into Civic chassis.
    6. Hybrid Drivetrains are not permitted, unless OEM equipped.
    7. Aftermarket conversion of N/A cars to forced induction is prohibited.
    8. Upgraded or modified compressor or turbine wheel components within the factory forced induction system are prohibited.
    9. Factory turbocharged cars must remain within 20% of factory boost settings.
    10. Drivetrain changes are prohibited, i.e., FWD to AWD or AWD to RWD.
    11. Nitrous is not allowed.
  3. SUSPENSION / TIRES

    1. Vehicles must use a DOT approved tire with a minimum UTQG Rating of 200 or higher. Tires from other markets (EU, JP) are permitted as long as they match the UTQG Rating.
    2. Tire Width: FWD: 285, RWD: 285, AWD: 255
    3. Tires may only be downsized 10mm.
    4. Suspension is limited to single adjustable unless OEM Equipped.
    5. Active suspension components are not permitted unless OEM.
    6. Suspension pickup points must remain OEM.
    7. The top of the tire may not protrude past the widest point of the wheel arch when viewed from above. Body lines may not be altered overfenders may be added if wheel openings do not change rough dimensions when viewed from the horizontal perspective when fenders are rolled.
  4. INTERIOR / MISC

    1. Vehicles must be street driven vehicles with valid insurance and registration.
    2. Vehicles must have headlights, tail lights and mirrors, all in working condition.
    3. Roll*cages are not permitted to extend beyond the firewall.
    4. Vehicles must retain all interior components e.g., seats, dash, carpets, headliner, and all must be in factory positions. (interior may be trimmed or modified to accommodate safety components.)
    5. Vehicles must have a working climate control system. AC components may be removed.
    6. Lexan Glass is not permitted.
    7. This class is not open to professionally licensed level drivers (PWC, IMSA, Trans-Am, NASCAR of any level, Formula Drive Pro-1, etc.) Amateur competition licenses do not count as professional.
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Old May 1, 2018 | 11:51 PM
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very light g load corner
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Old May 2, 2018 | 01:00 AM
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I had those wheels before. They're 14mm more inside than my 18x10.5 ET51 forged wheels, and that makes a huge difference. Combined with significant lack of sway bar support and increased lean, they must have caused this damage.

FYI, I was able to use those wheels with no damage using 750#/700# coilovers and aftermarket sway bars. Here's the video of my best lap with these wheels and 305/660/18F, 315/680/18R Pirelli DH scrubs:

I don't see anything against using stiffer sway bars and single adjustable coilovers in the rules.

Last edited by X25; May 2, 2018 at 01:03 AM.
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