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I was a bum on Sunday & didnt get much done. I did order parts, drain the oil, did some research & found out that you dont have to take off the valve cover& fuse box on the passenger side so I will probably pick up a 15mm ratchet wrench on the way home so I can drop the passenger side tonight / tomorrow. There's no way that a swivel extension will get to that fourth cat pipe nut. I believe today or tomorrow my thermal wrapping & such should be here so I can install the headers after that shows up. Looks like I wont have to raise the motor to get these headers in which I am relieved. I read that after you drop the cat pipe and the starter heat shield you can do everything from underneath the car, fingers crossed..
Looks like I can't get enough leverage with a ratchet wrench to break that fourth cat pipe bolt loose. I even tried a crows foot & that was unable to break it as well. Im going to have to unbolt the manifold from up top so I can move it to position it so as I can get an impact to break it free. Any tips on how to take that top fuse box off? I don't think I have to take the valve cover off. Also, what is everyone thermal wrapping in additional to the 02 extensions? Thanks..
Also, I know you are supposed to put anti-seize on the header bolts but how about the plugs? I always heard metal going into aluminum or vice versa you put anti-seize. I know GM puts dielectric grease on the plug tips, is this necessary? Does anyone have any torque specs on the header bolts, plugs, and oil lines? The oil line bolts didn't have any loc tight on the threads so Im assuming just torque them & they are good to go..
Also, I know you are supposed to put anti-seize on the header bolts but how about the plugs? I always heard metal going into aluminum or vice versa you put anti-seize. I know GM puts dielectric grease on the plug tips, is this necessary? Does anyone have any torque specs on the header bolts, plugs, and oil lines? The oil line bolts didn't have any loc tight on the threads so Im assuming just torque them & they are good to go..
Header bolts absolutely. Plugs is unnecessary since there is very little torque involved but it won't hurt anything if you do use it on them. Just use very little and do not get it on the tips or porcelain. No need for dielectric grease either but again, doesn't hurt if you want to use it. As for the fuse box here is a youtube video that shows how to remove. I recommend unbolting the coolant reservoir as well because it makes getting the rear plug/wire/header bolts easy.
The oil lines have to come off and you can get to all of the manifold bolts from the top. It will make it easier if you remove the two coolant reservoir bolts and move it out of the way.
I got both stock exhaust manifolds off, the drivers side header is in, looks like to get the passenger side in the starter needs to come off. My 45 degree o2 sim got here today, plug wires showed up yesterday. I will probably jump back on it this weekend, I’ve been crazy busy with work this week thus far.
Thanks! I ordered the 90’s & straights 02 sims from big daddies garage which the 90’s are just extenders, the straights has mini cats in them. After I got the drivers side header in & bolted up I threw up the mid pipe just to see how the Wires to the 02 sensors were going to have to be routed & noticed that the straights has the 02 sensors in an awkward position & I didn’t like that so I found & ordered the 45’s (which has mini cats in them as well).
I am also kicking around the idea of measuring where GM has their X pipe in their system & installing this one. I’m thinking by doing that,
it will make it sound like stock, or do I put it further down the system (like corsa). What are everyone’s thoughts?
That’s to funny!!!
I was thinking of doing the same thing.
I decided to do the install it and then drive it for a week or two, then install another X-pipe down stream like the Corsa double X.
I really like the sounds of the Corsa double x compared to cars with the single. It’s sounds a little higher pitch and more refined to me.
I actual called ARH and ask if they could do a double X and they said no, there jig is not setup for it.
I might just cut my Corsa in half and fit it to the front half of the ARH X-pipe.
I’m installing ARH catted X-pipe because of the better sounds, not so crazy loud and no smell.
I should of probably went with the catted version being that I live in Virginia & we are required to do emissions every two years or so, but I think I can still pass with the 02 sims I got. I spoke to my tuner & he said the computer that does emissions can tell if you have the after cat 02's turned off.
Splicing in a corsa may be easier, just cut and get a exhaust shop to flare the ends so you can slip it on the ARH mid pipe.
So what’s the trick to get the starter unplugged? Pull back the red safety lock, squeeze & pull?
That that should be it. it may be enough extra wire if you could just let the starter drop down and lay it on something and I have to remove the clip. I'm not sure because I didn't have to remove mine for the hookers
Got the new 02 sims on & it fits in the tunnel. Took my old SR1 mid pipe to the exhaust shop to get flared so it can slip on to the front section of the ARH mid pipe. We will see if it works. Now off to take the starter off & tackle the passenger side..
Got the new 02 sims on & it fits in the tunnel. Took my old SR1 mid pipe to the exhaust shop to get flared so it can slip on to the front section of the ARH mid pipe. We will see if it works. Now off to take the starter off & tackle the passenger side..
Looks awesome!!!
I bet it will sound crazy good!
When installing all your stuff, be extra careful to make sure that everything (pipes, clamps, sensors, ect.) have plenty of clearance so that when the engine moving around, nothing will touch the car. Anything touching the car will cause the knock sensors to go off thinking the engine is pinging, and the engine will pull timing.
