ARH Headers
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 811
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From: Virginia
ARH Headers
Installing 2" ARH headers & X pipe this weekend. What problem/s did you incur during your installation & what tricks did you learn while installing. Any pointers will be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance!
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,048
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From: South Florida
When removing the OEM manifold and primary cats you will find either #1 you can't get to 1 of the 4 bolts that connect the cat to the manifold up top and #2 that you can't get the cat off the car even after you remove all 4 bolts.
-Protip: Remove the manifold from the engine and let it drop down so that #1 you can get to the 4th bolt and #2 you can get the OEM cats down.
I was able to loosen all 4 bolts without dropping the manifold from the engine, but there was no way the cats were coming down without unbolting the OEM manifolds first. Also, be very cautious of the suspension level sensors. They are within "wrench swing" of the OEM Cat bolts. You don't want to smack them with a ratchet and have to pay to replace them.
-Protip: Remove the manifold from the engine and let it drop down so that #1 you can get to the 4th bolt and #2 you can get the OEM cats down.
I was able to loosen all 4 bolts without dropping the manifold from the engine, but there was no way the cats were coming down without unbolting the OEM manifolds first. Also, be very cautious of the suspension level sensors. They are within "wrench swing" of the OEM Cat bolts. You don't want to smack them with a ratchet and have to pay to replace them.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2014
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From: in the country North Carolina
I agree with dropping the manifold. It's the only way without raising the engine or dropping the cradle or sawing off one of the studs. I'd also use ARP studs instead of header bolts. There's a lot less risk of messing up the threads in the heads and I like them a lot better.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 811
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From: Virginia
On the passenger side, do you suggest dropping the oil lines, starter, or both? Im assuming dropping & installing the headers are done from underneath the car? Anything required up top to be removed for clearance?
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 4,301
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From: in the country North Carolina
I used Hooker shorty's and they're easier to install. I had to remove the shield on the starter but not the starter. I also left the oil lines in place. I'm guessing that you're going to have to at least remove the oil lines and probably the starter as well. You' won't know until you get under it but I don't think you can get long tubes in with the oil line in place. It's not that hard to remove just don't lose the o-rings.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,048
Likes: 1,478
From: South Florida
I only dropped the oil lines and the starter heat shield. But with 2 inch primaries you might need to remove the starter. Can always leave it on and try and then if you can't get them up there pull the starter last.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 4,301
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From: in the country North Carolina
It's been a while but I think you still have to squeeze a tab. For some reason I remember using a tiny screwdriver to push it in but it's been a while. Also when you reinstall everything make sure the sensor connector is wrapped or it will melt.
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Drifting
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From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 4,301
Likes: 959
From: in the country North Carolina
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 811
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From: Virginia
Got the 02 sensors unplugged, now I can't get to that fourth bolt you were referring to. Zipped the other three off with an impact with no problem. Im thinking I should of took the heat shield off to give me more wiggly room to get to that fourth bolt. Did you also take the plugs out for additional wiggly room?
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2014
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From: in the country North Carolina
Yes. Absolutely take the plugs out or you will break them. If you take the bolts out of the exhaust manifold it might help. I used a box end wrench and came in through the fenderwell to break it if I remember correctly. Spray it with wd-40 or something and let it set for a few minutes or hours.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 811
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From: Virginia
So after taking the plugs out I was able to position it to get an impact to get the fourth nut off!! It should drop out now, super excited. Thanks everyone for their input....IT HELPED!!!! Tomorrow the passenger side..
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 811
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From: Virginia
Thanks again guys, tomorrow passenger side, hopefully that is the easier side.
*BTW....which heat wrap did you guys use again? DEI from summit racing? Also where did you guys order those arp header studs from?
*BTW....which heat wrap did you guys use again? DEI from summit racing? Also where did you guys order those arp header studs from?
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 4,301
Likes: 959
From: in the country North Carolina
I used ARP 434-1401 when I got them Amazon was the cheapest but they're usually my last choice but I needed them the next day. I actually used teknofibra from Essex parts for the shielding. I had some that I bought for the transmission left over. Anything like that will work but if you don't wrap them they will probably melt if the headers are close. 2" will probably be very close. I also coated my headers with Cerakote. Makes them look good and keeps them that way.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 811
Likes: 177
From: Virginia
Im slacking today, decided to sleep in. I did try to slide in the driver side header before quitting yesterday just to see how tight its going to be. It didn't act like it wanted to go, Im kinda worried..
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,048
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From: South Florida
Make sure you use anti seize with the ARP bolts. Even if you use the bolts that come with the ARH kit, use anti seize. Very important!
I would also recommend getting a set of MSD plug wires. They fit much better with headers, especially 2 inch primary headers. You can snap them on the plugs and then "shape" that side by slightly bending them away from the header for clearance.
I would also recommend getting a set of MSD plug wires. They fit much better with headers, especially 2 inch primary headers. You can snap them on the plugs and then "shape" that side by slightly bending them away from the header for clearance.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,048
Likes: 1,478
From: South Florida
It's going to be a tight fit for sure. You might have to jack up the engine to save yourself a headache. Also, on the passenger side there is a bundle of wires that you can get snagged on. 2 inch primaries are a bit more challenging to get into place. If you unbolt the engine mounts you can jack up the engine about an inch for more clearance.