Painting cars is all about surface prep and the quality of materials being used. I will agree that the factory has the best shot at the best paint job, but as you see in this thread people are pointing out that they are seeing problems with their factory paint.

I have a friend who retired from Allstate as a Claims Adjuster. We have a mutual friend who owns a large Chevrolet/GMC/Ford dealership. We have walked his lots several times and my friend from Allstate can always point out a paint flaw on several new cars in a short walk. There is an auto repair shop right across the street from this dealer. When they spot a problem guess where they send the car/truck to be repainted? To the guy across the street who prides himself in his paint work. GM didn't invest $439 million on their new paint shop because the old one was doing a great job!

 

The rear trunk lid and the rear facia are 1/4 inch off. This looks shoddy. After careful examination it appears that they will not be able to align these panels without shrinking one of them.

At first, I thought the rear facia was just set too high but when you look behind the rear wheel the two line up perfectly
. Yikes!

 

I just went out to the garage and checked mine. It looks a little "off" in this photo, but in person, the panels line up correctly:

 

Spoiler may be lifting the rear fascia "up". Hard to see close up but it sure looks like the spoiler is pulling it up to conform to it's location. How does the other side look? And in the middle of the fascia?

 

The other side is perfect. I can also see that the trunk lid is out of tolerance on both sides adjacent to the HTC hood. The rear facia is very flexible and was probably installed without being adjusted before fastening. I am going to point this out to the tech when they install the high wing I ordered.

 

Correct me if I am wrong but wouldn't the only way possible to lift the facia by way of the wing be going 100mph in reverse?

 

My line of thought was, lets say when the spoiler is being installed that the mid mounting section is "balanced" at the mid-fascia but has gaps at the ends of the spoiler to the fascia. When the mounting hardware is installed then the ends would tend to pull the fascia up just as you see. I can imagine that if you tightened the hardware at the middle and drivers end first then the passenger side could be even more pronounced - that's why I asked if there were pictures of the two other mounting locations.

An easy way to test the theory is to loosen the spoiler mounting hardware and see if the fascia tends to move back into the intended normal position.

 

I was under the impression that the spoiler hardware is only accessible when the rear facia has been removed from the car. I am hoping that when the high wing is installed, they can correct it.

 

I noticed that the seat base covers are becoming a thing of the past mostly on trucks. Here it looks like they saved about 2.5 oz. per seat of weight and maybe $3.00 in costs. Having said that I think that yellowish carpet is looking pretty nasty.

 

Let me preface this post by pointing out how much I love this car...I have noticed that there are several "bumps" or ripples on the surface (not paint) of the rear trunk lid and the driver side rear quarter panel and door. I have also noticed what I would describe as splash stains under the clear coat. They can only be seen up close during careful examination they are dark rapid blue splash like anomalies . I have also noticed that the rear trunk lid seems to be lower (below edge of rear facia) on both rear corners but is perfectly aligned in the center. The convertible top is aligned perfectly on the driver side where it meets the windshield pillar but it seems to be over 1/8" short on the passenger side. Nothing like applying your first coat of wax and finding various flaws that you would only notice during the close scrutiny of polishing your car. I am not even going to try to bring this up to my dealer or Chevy because I know that this is not simply an isolated problem. This is a mass-produced car made by GM, I am however interested in knowing if there is any adjustability in the trunk lid or the front convertible top alignment. Just saying... if I wanted flawlessness, I would have a new 911 and pay $220k, because a flaw of any kind would never make it out of the Porsche factory. At the dealer level it is extremely rare if ever to see any kind of flaw whatsoever on a new car.

 

Yes they all have flaws but I think your is over the top and it would be worth the time to see the dealer.

 

I read these posts with interest. My C8 is my 5th Corvette and is one of three GM vehicles in my garages. These posts almost make me want to go out and go over all three vehicles with a fine toothed comb, but then I remember exactly what @the real RacerX posted - all three are mass produced cars. I'm OCD about keeping my cars clean but I have one of my three ceramic coated and the other two will be done in the next month. In my older years I no longer want to spend my time out in my garage polishing for hours. I would rather be driving my vehicles. I usually take them to a local hand wash or in my truck's case, a wash tunnel. I guess that's why I just don't notice these imperfections and I'm sure that they are probably there.

I agree that you would never find these on a Porsche......but for 1/3rd of the price......

By the way, a good ceramic shop can get out a lot of the paint imperfections that you may find on these cars.

 

Yes, I saw issues in that same area. It was clearly some sort of a graphics rendering issue. Very likely a software bug vs a hardware issue IMHO.

The display is likely a single screen, so not likely an issue with the display itself based on how most displays work.
When mine did this it looked very much like a problem with a character renderer / "blitter" routine. Looked like a pointer was pulling data from some random memory location and rendering that data. I developed blitters in FPGA and software back in the day.

 

Wow that does seem like an excessive amount of flaws. I just took delivery of my '22 on Friday and have spent the last couple days compounding and waxing the Red Mist and Carbon Flash paints. I had a lot of small micro scratches which were probably caused by a dirty rag or sponge at dealership, fortunately they all came out. I also had what I thought were splash/spotting under the clear coat in one spot but they came out with a little polishing compound so must have been on top. Overall I'm very pleased with fit and finish on this car, the Red Mist is spectacular.

 

They didn't know why and they just ordered a replacement axle. I tried it again and did two launches with no issues, but it still weighs on my mind for the next time.

 

I had an issue with intermittent front left turn signal not working and at the same time the right rear tail light would stop working! The issue was apparently a bad connection on the back of the fuse block. A temporary repair was done at the dealership. I was told a final fix will be published soon?

 

My alarm would go off while at work with key fob on desk, in garage at 3 am all sorts of random times. I finally removed the fuse for the horn. The problem was a faulty sensor for the roof panel that told the car the panel was being removed with the car locked. If I got to the car fast enough there was a message on the dash "Theft Attempted" Sensor replaced, alarm working properly now.

 

Has anyone had a problem with the oil dip-stick popping out? Last night I got home after a short drive, smelled burnt oil and this morning pulled the car out of the garage to investigate. Found the dip-stick popped-out of the tube and oil all over the right side of the engine and dripping down to the sub-frame. Last checked oil level a month ago @ 1100 miles and pretty sure the dip-stick was securely in place after that. BTW, I own a plane and this would be an item that would be safety-wired.

 

Never happened to me. I suspect it wasn't inserted all the way the last time it was checked. If it happens again it could indicate excess blow-by.

 

So are you talking about the top part of the dip stick, or the tube itself lower down where it meets the oil system / reservoir?