Per the owner’s manual, you can press the throttle to the floor at the apex and PTM will control wheel spin and engine output for maximum corner exit.

I light up the rear tires exiting the corners no matter which mode I use. I tried “track” and “sport” mode assuming TC and ESC or both on. I tried “track” and then pushed the TC button twice for PTM and selected Sport . Race within PTM definitely lites up the tires.

No matter what, I have to feather the throttle to prevent spinning the car, which I did one time.

A buddy has the LZ1 Camaro with 600HP and PTM, and he puts his throttle on the floorboard
at the apex.

What am I doing wrong?

 

It works as designed on track for me. Each mode allows more slip angle and the greater the steering angle the more intrusive it is. However, you can absolutely loop the car in Race 1 and Race 2 and it will also allow you to drift and powerslide. In Sport and lower it is much more proactive and intrusive.

 

Are you able to floor the throttle in sport?

 

No, but not because of PTM but because most parts of the track the car will push and understeer if you floor it at the apex. With the mid engine you can carry more speed to the apex but you have to be patient getting back on the throttle. Inducing a little wheelspin at the apex might actually be beneficial by getting the car to rotate but I've gotten into a few tank slappers trying that..

In my C7Z you can do exactly what you're describing, especially in Sport 1 -- you can pretty much mat the gas at the apex and ESC will kick in aggressively and cut power until you unwind the wheel. PTM between the two function very differently. I find the C7Z PTM to be more progressive as you get higher into the modes but it can still be pretty intrusive even in Race. On the C8 the difference between Sport and Race 1 is basically an on/off switch.

 

You can technically mat the throttle in wet PTM mode but the PTM mode is really not designed for you to use the throttle as an on and off switch it's still wants you to be a good driver and modulate throttle out of a corner

 

My point is the owner’s manual says you can floor the throttle. I was playing around and couldn’t get it to work. If that’s not the case, Looks like the manual is wrong.

 

The C8 manual says:

This exact line is also in my 2019's manual. "at the point where normal acceleration occurs" I think is purposely nebulous since that point will vary at every turn at every track and is not always at the apex.

 

I ask this with all sincerity, but what is the point of wanting the computer to do the modulating for you? To me that’s part of the satisfaction of driving around a racetrack.

 

I would agree the manual should have been better with the wording. In that respect Race 2 is a PTM mode and has zero nannies nor power mitigation whatsoever.

 

Have you tracked a car with PTM?

The point of PTM is to make the car more accessible for all skill levels by providing some guard rails. You can start in the lower, more intrusive modes and explore the limits of the car progressively. Ideally the driver should be 'graduating' up through the modes once they become a limitation as their skills increase. Once you're in the Race modes you are pretty much on your own and you have to be really out of shape and/or way over-driving the car before there's a meaningful intervention. Now staying in the lower modes and just hamming the car around and letting the training wheels do their thing is obviously going to stunt growth, but not everyone is trying to be Hamilton. I'd rather someone be that guy, than the one that arrogantly turns everything off and then loops the car or worse...

 

I think it may have something to do with the eLSD (assuming it has it). At Ron Fellows with was pointed out that you needed the car pointed straight before flooring it or you'd have the issue you describe. I had that issue a few times when I got on it at the apex or when the car wasn't pointed in the direction I wanted and floored it. The car's back end wanted to come around. We ran the car in Z mode with PTM in Sport during the sessions.

 

No I’ve always turned everything off and learned to respect the power. My first hotrod was a 12 second car at 16 with a carburetor, so no traction control and maybe that’s why I come from a different mindset. I believe people shouldn’t lean on the nannie’s and should slowly work up to the limits, if they can’t control it then they should start with a less powerful car imho. Autocrossing is a great way to learn car control if one has never done it as well, plus it forces you to learn a new course quickly. This was 3rd time running reverse direction in 3 years and the 2nd session of the day.

 

So for track, experienced drivers, we should:
* dial up race mode
* double tap traction
* then select PTM Race 1 (to have some Nannie’s)

Is this correct? I think my Z mode is already set
to this, but wanted to make sure.

 

I prefer to set z mode because you have individual control of steering, brakes, suspension (kind of), transmission.

You can set your preferred PTM mode in your z mode and then the mode selector becomes a PTM mode selector. Extremely convenient.

As for PTM mode I'd pick which one meets your preference. No one can tell you what PTM mode is right for you.

On a new to me wet track if I had slicks on the car I'd 100 percent use a different one than on a dry track that I consider my local backyard track.

Often My personal preference is PTM Sport on street tires as I'm not doing time attacks and competing. I'm just having fun trying to set personal best times. It's weekend warrior mode to me lol.

Race 1 on r comps would make sense for someone who knows the track and is comfortable with it.

You know what Race 2 is and you know if you want to use it. If you are confident with the car and that track and have already been setting records at it and want to experience zero intervention it's there.


DISCLAIMER ON ALL PTM MODES EXCEPT WET: be warned that literally all ptm modes except wet mode will force the suspension into track mode. Wet mode puts the suspension in sport mode (mid setting). This is great for most tracks but tracks like Sebring that are incredibly bumpy.... incredibly....you may find there to be nowhere near the suspension modulation you need. This literally forces you to not be able to use PTM at Sebring. You can choose competitive drive mode though if you want some level of ESC/TC and soft suspension.

 

K... You're kinda preaching to the choir here since before I got big into track days I did 20+ years of drag racing, 1/2 mile and street shenanigans in big power (1000+ WHP) stick shift cars. However, my take is exactly the opposite -- put the ego away and leverage the tools and technologies made available to you. Instead of dismissing the nannies which you've never even experienced, recognize when utilized correctly they might actually make you a better driver.

 

I disagree, they hide your flaws and give you a false sense of security. I also come from a drag racing background and worked at a performance shop having driven 1100rwhp C6Z06, how many of those 4 digit cars have you seen on the road course as I only know of a handful vs my measly 500hp was laughed at back in the day by the straight line guys. Here’s 340tw run flats, which I recommend learning on an inferior tire as again it helps to not hide mistakes since then you don’t build bad habits and in the long run will help you be an even better driver. I’ve driven C7GS, C7Z06, C7Z06 and C8Z51 on track, but not in anger like I do my own car so slower pace w/o slip angle doesn’t cause intervention. Have driven SS1LE in anger with everything off and hope to drive buddy’s C8Z06 soon as it’s done being broken in.

 

Nannies are a modern tool, with different methodology for getting the most from those tools.

Back in the day calculators were pooh-poohed by those who learned on slide rules. Modern engineers no longer learn slide rules because we have access to better tools.

I'm sure neanderthals had the same argument about starting their own fires vs naturally started fires.

 

Great analogy, so basically don’t bring a knife to a gun fight? The point I thought is to learn how to actually drive and control a car by understanding how your inputs transfer weight and maximize tire grip, not go for a ride as there are amusement parks for that.

 

You guys are going off on a tangent arguing about using nannies or not. My question is whether my PTM was working or not based on what the car was doing and what the manual said. For the purists with the big ***** that think they are good drivers and would never use nannies , We salute you master driver.

I only drive in Wet mode. 😎

 

I’m sorry if you felt I was hi jacking as it wasn’t my intention, just giving an alternative solution. I sit right seat and help others become better drivers while risking myself for their gain so my apologies as this thread isn’t nearly as dangerous though thought I’d give my 2 cents as many want instant gratification.

Many don’t even run in the rain, so I applaud you doing so as it makes you an even better driver. I understand if people aren’t wanting to risk wrecking a car, but I then question why take the risk in the first place as if someone oils down the track in front of you or you have a mechanical failure no nannies are going to save you though you understanding car control could help mitigate the damage. You may be for cars driving themselves ultimately, some people just enjoy doing it themselves though. My personal track record for what it’s worth over all the years (15k miles on current car driving to and from track only) is never spinning and going 4-off twice, only say that I’m not some reckless driver and shared my videos as proof. I haven’t ever had a student go off track nor spin either fwiw, so I again I’m not advocating that. Once you learn car control and understand weight transfer you can jump in any vehicle regardless of how the engineered programmed the stability control and have the confidence you’re going be able to keep yourself as well as others out of trouble.