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thank you,the passenger door is a little low compared to the drivers side but it is hard to tell from other cars because they vary car to car it is roughly in the same range however on the drivers side is what I believe to be 3/8 high and 3/8 forward at the drip edge but not at the windshield I put all the shims back from which they came and door gaps are pretty good.can you shim between #1 mount and cage?
Yes. But you may find that the amount of movement may not be that drastic...due to these two points being so close to one another...and you are actually trying to flex the rocker channel of the bird cage. This action can have counter productive results elsewhere.
thank you,the reason I was thinking body sag is the fire wall went right back to original rivet holes and everything else seemed to line up except when I tried to get the 43 inches from rear hinge bolt to drip edge it was 3/8 tighter on drivers side but only at the drip edge? also thinking of putting on frame machine?
thank you,the reason I was thinking body sag is the fire wall went right back to original rivet holes and everything else seemed to line up except when I tried to get the 43 inches from rear hinge bolt to drip edge it was 3/8 tighter on drivers side but only at the drip edge? also thinking of putting on frame machine?
The fiberglass is not as rigid as you might think. So eventhough the holes all lined up...does not guarantee that the bird cage was square...and not a "diamond". When doing the welding of the bird cage ...was it "jigged" or properly secured during the welding process???
QUESTION 1: Did you index/line-up the birdcage to the holes in the frame when you set your body back down on the frame???
QUESTION 2: Was the frame checked or straightened at any time before you started bolting parts onto it?
QUESTION 3: On the side that is "off"....is this the side where you replaced bird cage steel??? Hinge post, etc? AND if YES...did you carefully inspect the new steel part for correct assembly if it from the manufacturer???
Putting it on a frame machine is "do-able" but can possibly cause for an issue due to having to over-pull it and let it relax to the point of where you want it to be....as you know. If you do pull it...I will be gritting my teeth for you...because it is not only steel...but fiberglass also... which does not like to stretch/flex...which is all dependfant on the shape of the molded fiberglass.. Fiberglass is like "Rice Krispies"...SNAP, CRACKLE...POP!!!
the cage was bolted to the frame and then tacked after measuring the parts I used were off another car.I dont believe the frame was ever pulled and I did not think the hits were hard enough to move the frame but I am not a body man,I can post a pick of the original front clip if it would help?As Clint Eastwood says a mans gotta know his limitations! DUB I am sorry for getting off my rocker in previous post and I do thank you for all your help
Last edited by 69ragvette; Oct 28, 2010 at 08:44 PM.
Reason: appology
the cage was bolted to the frame and then tacked after measuring the parts I used were off another car.I dont believe the frame was ever pulled and I did not think the hits were hard enough to move the frame but I am not a body man,I can post a pick of the original front clip if it would help?As Clint Eastwood says a mans gotta know his limitations! DUB I am sorry for getting off my rocker in previous post and I do thank you for all your help
ACCEPTED...Like I mentioned...I have been there also.....under stress due to a problem situation. NO harm...NO foul.
It does not take much to throw off the frame measurements. The "S" shape in the frame rail...around and ahead of number 1 mount is an area that can move.
But the answers to the 3 questions I asked...I kinda would like to know the answer to each of them. Because you could have a bad frame or built the bird cage to a "tweaked"frame. Not saying that it is...but possible. The bird cage will bolt to the frame...but is it/or the frame correct will determined later.
(DUB) you were absolutely right the cage was racked 1/4 inch.I loosened all the bolts on the left side and put an alignment bar in the hole in rocker and shifted the left side back and then pulled a cross measurement and that fixed that problem.BUT I still have the issue of height when you look above the hinge post on the driver side there is a gap of 5/16 the fiberglass is pushed up.I looked at a few corvettes today at corvette Haven the owner Tommy Darrin has been doing corvettes since 1965 said these things vary .some have gaps and some dont?
(DUB) you were absolutely right the cage was racked 1/4 inch.I loosened all the bolts on the left side and put an alignment bar in the hole in rocker and shifted the left side back and then pulled a cross measurement and that fixed that problem.BUT I still have the issue of height when you look above the hinge post on the driver side there is a gap of 5/16 the fiberglass is pushed up.I looked at a few corvettes today at corvette Haven the owner Tommy Darrin has been doing corvettes since 1965 said these things vary .some have gaps and some dont?
One down...one to go.
If I am following you correctly...the problem is on the right side...correct?
And the problem is how the top hood surround is higher ( like your photo showed)...am I still correct?
Please let me know if I am following you correctly. Because 5/16" is a "mile" in my book. and if I am on the same page as you...your wiper door is now not aligning correctly...it is too high...correct?
it is the left side with the gap,looking from the inside above the kick panel where the fiberglass would sit on top of the hinge post.I thought the height looked right on the left fender to door but when I looked at some cars it appears that some the top of some fenders kid of swoop down?
If it is not too much trouble..can you post good photo's of what you are seeing/describing...because I kinda understand what you are saying...BUT in the first series of photo's in this post...it appeared that the right side was high..and the left side door to fender gap looked ok.
I gotta go out and do some stuff ...but I will check back on this issue when I get back later. In an hour or two.
OK...But I won't be able to respond until I get home from the shop....so don't wait around all day checking to see if I have responded...not saying that someone else could add their thoughts on this issue.
I dont need anybody to tell me what I want to hear! It was a simple question COULD THE PROBLEM BE CAUSED BY THE CAR SETTING FOR A PERIOD OF TIME WITH BAD MOUNTS? I have been on this forum for a good period of time and never had such a problem getting an answer to a simple question.I have restored several cars just not a c3 but I have done quite a bit without visiting this section and will continue to do so.I dont need someone to hold my hand every step of the way .
I did not mean to upset or insult you. My post was nothing more than support and appreciation for DUB. Just consider the time he has spent helping you. He must not sleep because if he takes the time to post he post an in depth response. He is an asset to this forum. I have seen other helpful members just get fed up and disappear.
It looks like your back on track and he has helped you out. Good luck with you'r restoration.
flyinfree,
I appreciate your passion to the success of this area and other areas of the Corvette Forum....and to those members who try to help out other members with their issues.
I do sleep very well at night...just to let you know...because I try not to let "small" things consume my life. And I have learned to take the "higher road" in many cases which often seems to be the best avenue to take...instead of "fueling" a potential fire...where the moderators have to step in and shut down the post...which in turn would have made it a total waste of time on everyone's part. When emotions overtake intellect...that is where the problem starts. I try to keep my emotions in "check" when responding to posts....I mess up from time to time...because I am NOT perfect. So this is why I can understand the responses from some members from time to time and try to de-fuse the potential explosion that is building.
I am here to stay for as long as I can...and for whatever it is worth....all I am trying to due is express my experiences in restoring Corvetttes for the past 20+ years. Not saying that I am the "best" person to ask a question to...but I have encountered so many issues...that I may just be able to offer some insight to a problem you or others may have had in the past....or modify an area to stop a protential problem due to an incorrect/sub-par design.
I feel that respect has been restored...and I am fine with that becasue I do not judge people..because in most cases that I have come to realize. About the only thing the human beings can control is their attitude.
today I got a good view of the top of the pillar and I can see something so I was thinking I might be able to borrow a friends bore scope and get a closer look as it is three feet long and you can read the stamp on top of a piston.what do you think?
today I got a good view of the top of the pillar and I can see something so I was thinking I might be able to borrow a friends bore scope and get a closer look as it is three feet long and you can read the stamp on top of a piston.what do you think?
Sound like a good plan. Hopefully you do find "something" that comfirms your raised issue.
I also left you a meesage on your phone about the "birdcage" steel parts. From the GM parts book...It appears that the hinge posts are the all the same (68-82)...but I have to confrim that via my crash manuals. GM states ...in the parts book... that the rocker channels are all the same...but my crash manuals state otherwise. I do know that the metal gusset at the area in the lower outer corner of your windshield ARE different. BUT this does not change the issue you are dealing with...BUT may effect the way the windshield sits in place ...like we talked about on Sunday.