Going to spray a layer of slicksand on my 74 in a week or so. Its extensivly modified and there is a lot of new glass work. Looks flat and feels smooth but Im sure there are some imperfections
Just doing the last of body filling now. Should I shoot a guide coat over it? What should I use? I figure some kind of black primer but what?

 

I use 38203 SEM Guide Coat Black. It comes in a rattle can. 1 can will easily do a car with lots left. Google it and you find videos of it being used.

 

You can use most anything for a guide coat. It will all come off anyway!

We used cheap brown lacquer primer. You just dust it on, don't shoot a solid coat.

 

Yepper, I used some "$2 a can" black spray paint... Think I went through almost 2 cans during my "several" guide coats... I think you'll be surprised at what the guide coat will reveal... I expected to Prime (K36) and guide coat only once but ended up with most areas requiring me to go around the car 3 times...

Good luck, you're making good progress on your car...

Rogman

 

BUT....

Now I use the black dust/powder the 3M sells for a sandable guide coat. It does not require any shooting of anything. It is a simple round foam applicator pad ( much like what is used when you play air hockey) that you dab in the dust/powder (which sticks very well to the primer) blend it out and sand away. This way...if you need to re-apply...dry off the panel and do just that. It does not wash off easily with water and does not clog sandpaper like some products that are shot on the panel.

LAddams,
For what it is worth:

Do not be surprised if you find yourself needing to re-apply the primer again. When the primer is wet...and you can see the surface. If you can see "issues" that you feel the primer will not fill in the reflection of the wet primer. Prime it as you planned on. But when you go and block sand it...I would block it with 180 grit DRY and then re-apply the primer again and then sand it with the paper you plan on sealing or painting on. This type of primer gets hard...and I know that in the past, I would sand my polyester primer with 500 grit. But due to it being so hard...I sand with 400 grit wet. I NEVER had an issue with sand scratches due to the primer is so hard...unlike many other primers where this could be dangerous. If you do not believe me. Shoot a small unneeded test panel when you are priming and sand it and you will see what I mean. Because if you sand with 500 grit...it will be a pain...and 400 does it much faster....that is unless you just like to spend time sanding.

DUB

 

Thanks for the tips! I saw the dust at the vendor I was shopping at last night. Facinated by the concept. Might get one rattle can and the dust.
I have a bunch of 400 and up wet/dry paper from the last project(25+ years ago but I dont think it can go bad?)
I blocked the glass work with 40
then blocked the rage with 80.
Figured I block the slicksand with 220 (but my old arms like the 180 idea better )
Then wet with the 400.
The durablocks are great if only cause they are easier on the grip than a 2x4.
Then primer and paint if the weather holds up. If not paint may need to wait till spring.
Spent so much time running my hands over this car the past 2 years I should at least buy it dinner
With the rage filling in though its feeling really smooth now. cant wait to get it in prime!So I can relearn how to wire a car from scratch!

 

I have used both the spray and the powder, only use powder now due to no worries about getting spray or overspray where I don't want it.

 

I would...if it were me...block with the 180 and then re-prime it again...then wetsand it with 400.

Going to 400 wet after block it with 180 or 220 would remove so much primer...I am sure you might run into a break through and have to re-prime.

The 3M product is called "dry guide coat" and is part number 05860. I do not waste my time with rattle can or mixing and over thinning primer to make a guide coat. It saves me time and $$$$.

DUB

 

Thats the plan,thanks!