Paint/Body Corvette Materials, Techniques, and How To

1968 Bodywork

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Old Jul 15, 2017 | 11:30 PM
  #21  
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Default Slow

Went at it again for another hour or so today. I get kind of Jumpy and go all over the place. I should really stop and finish one panel and go to the next one. I just kind of keep trying to figure out what sins lie underneath everything.







On a plus side I got all 8 rear grill clips out without trauma to the tabs or clips.

Also let's talk smells. I'm sanding a really built up spot on the rear tail panel. The more I sand theore I smell Elmer's glue. What product has that type of odor?
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Old Jul 16, 2017 | 05:49 PM
  #22  
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I need to see the area that when you are sanding it smells like Elmers glue.

Is that area 'powdering away' when you sand it or does it get gummy???

Right off the top of my head I can not think of anything that smells like Elmers glue when it is sanded.

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Old Jul 16, 2017 | 06:36 PM
  #23  
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Default Hot hot heat

I went ahead and pushed the car out into the sun today. I thought that would help loosen up a lot of stuff which it seemed to. Still slow going run into roadblocks when I get to parts that have been worked on before which seems to be a lot of areas. The top two pictures are the before the last four are after. Somebody tell me how much money I'm saving by doing this. Because I'm not sure heatstroke is worth it. Hahaha






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Old Jul 16, 2017 | 07:23 PM
  #24  
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I can not comment on how much you are saving in comparison to the time you are spending...because I use chemical.

But I can say you ARE saving money...depending on how much you value your time.

I commend you on doing this and DO NOT give up. When you get done..the amount of SATISFACTION will be quite overwhelming. And you will actually have a new found understanding and respect for what guys like me do for a living and not think that it is so easy as some on the internet make it out to be.

Staying focused on one area works best for me...and YES..I know it is hard to do at times......and hopefully if you are doing that it is working for you instead of jumping all around and not actually getting any one panel completed to 100%.

DUB
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Old Jul 16, 2017 | 07:56 PM
  #25  
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Default Glue Smell




The predominant white area to the left is what produced the smell while sanding.
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Old Jul 17, 2017 | 05:50 PM
  #26  
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Thanks for the photo...

Seeing how I was also waiting your response to my question in post #22. All I can do is guess.

It looks like a body filler or a primer...hard to tell from the photo. Just make sure you use proper breathing protection.

It can possibly be a glazing putty. Either way...you know it has to come off so it won't matter when the smoke clears.

DUB

Last edited by DUB; Jul 17, 2017 at 05:51 PM.
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Old Jul 17, 2017 | 06:01 PM
  #27  
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Default Sorry for the delay.

My apologies. It feels like it powdered away but with a bunch of effort. But yes I can understand what you're saying it has to go so why worry about it.
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Old Jul 17, 2017 | 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Duffeball
My apologies. It feels like it powdered away but with a bunch of effort. But yes I can understand what you're saying it has to go so why worry about it.
I wonder if it is some type of polyester primer. That would fit. Powders away but hard to take off.

DUB
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Old Aug 6, 2017 | 01:31 PM
  #29  
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Default Guess the product

I'm finally getting some real time to scrape the paint and other terribleness off this car. I got to the front knows where I soon we'd have some issues. And as I predicted there's definitely some mystery product in the front. When I heated it up with the gun and became very malleable and peeled up really easy Once the blade got under it. So let's play the game. What product is this? Either way I'm pretty certain it has no place on my car.



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Old Aug 6, 2017 | 03:15 PM
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Have you ever thought about getting the body media blasted? Not with sand, but I think it is some type of crushed shells, walnut maybe or another type of media that won't wreck the body. They do inside and out if you want. I think I paid $800 for my 77. I had layer upon layer of repairs and paint that had to come off.

Would be an easy go for you since you have the body off.
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Old Aug 6, 2017 | 03:57 PM
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Default Follow up question






Follow-up question. A heat gun shouldn't Delaminate a previous repair if it was done somewhat correctly, right?
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Old Aug 6, 2017 | 03:59 PM
  #32  
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Default Thought about it.

Originally Posted by Emeightch
Have you ever thought about getting the body media blasted? Not with sand, but I think it is some type of crushed shells, walnut maybe or another type of media that won't wreck the body. They do inside and out if you want. I think I paid $800 for my 77. I had layer upon layer of repairs and paint that had to come off.

Would be an easy go for you since you have the body off.

I've certainly thought about it. But I haven't been able to really find anybody locally who I would trust to do it. Sounds like a lot of em are just hacks who bought a mobile media blaster.
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Old Aug 6, 2017 | 05:34 PM
  #33  
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Default Further back pictures




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Old Aug 6, 2017 | 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Duffeball

Follow-up question. A heat gun shouldn't Delaminate a previous repair if it was done somewhat correctly, right?
It has nothing to do with a previous repair that failed...this is fresh delamination that was self inflicted ...and I can tell by how good the fibers look ...they glisten. MAN...I think you are getting it way too hot and you are going too deep with the razor blade.

I hope you realize and understand that using the razor blade method of removing stuff off the panel is to get some of it off ...and not so much being able to perfectly strip it to the factory fiberglass. You can actually do MORE HARM to the panel using the heat gun than if you sand it off by hand.... knowing you are not going to use chemical.

When you see you are going into the fibers and gouging it ..STOP.

DUB
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Old Aug 6, 2017 | 05:42 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by DUB
It has nothing to do with a previous repair that failed...this is fresh delamination that was self inflicted ...and I can tell by how good the fibers look ...they glisten. MAN...I think you are getting it way too hot and you are going too deep with the razor blade.

I hope you realize and understand that using the razor blade method of removing stuff off the panel is to get some of it off ...and not so much being able to perfectly strip it to the factory fiberglass. You can actually do MORE HARM to the panel using the heat gun than if you sand it off by hand.... knowing you are not going to use chemical.

When you see you are going into the fibers and gouging it ..STOP.

DUB
I will be more careful. I'm trying to stop short of the primer two allow me to send it or whatever after the fact. But when I get to these parts where it's been worked on there's a whole lot of putty or something and I get at the putty and it gets soft and the fibers seem to go with it.
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Old Aug 6, 2017 | 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Duffeball
I will be more careful. I'm trying to stop short of the primer two allow me to send it or whatever after the fact. But when I get to these parts where it's been worked on there's a whole lot of putty or something and I get at the putty and it gets soft and the fibers seem to go with it.
Only commenting in the manner I am so you do not create MORE problems.. I would HATE to see you have a major 'cluster' going on there.

Then...if you come to previous body work or putty STOP. Sand it off. Kinda like your gas pedal in your car...you do not drive around in town with it matted to the floor all the time. You gotta know when to 'lift' or stop.

AND...just becasue 'porchdog', others and myself say that using a razor blade will work. Often times we have hundreds of hours of experience to know when to stop.

Like I wrote before..I use a razor blade but rarely use heat because the amount of heat is touchy...or your get what you have.....delamination.

DUB

Last edited by DUB; Aug 6, 2017 at 05:51 PM.
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Old Aug 6, 2017 | 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by DUB
Only commenting in the manner I am so you do not create MORE problems.. I would HATE to see you have a major 'cluster' going on there.

Then...if you come to previous body work or putty STOP. Sand it off. Kinda like your gas pedal in your car...you do not drive around in town with it matted to the floor all the time. You gotta know when to 'lift' or stop.

AND...just becasue 'porchdog', others and myself say that using a razor blade will work. Often times we have hundreds of hours of experience to know when to stop.

Like I wrote before..I use a razor blade but rarely use heat because the amount of heat is touchy...or your get what you have.....delamination.

DUB
Understandable. I appreciate you trying to keep me from Causing more problems. Is there a way to tell what's a good repair and what's a battery pair? Or should I leave that to the body guy that I'm taking it to the determine?

Basically I'm just trying to keep the car from being painted with bad work underneath.
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Old Aug 6, 2017 | 06:01 PM
  #38  
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I'm late to party but I soda blasted my 65. While my body man didn't like it, it went to base fiberglass and from there he removed all flares and fixed some really messed up body panels to almost NOS quality. It was a PITA but worked for end results.... blasting works
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Old Aug 6, 2017 | 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Duffeball
Understandable. I appreciate you trying to keep me from Causing more problems. Is there a way to tell what's a good repair and what's a battery pair? Or should I leave that to the body guy that I'm taking it to the determine?

Basically I'm just trying to keep the car from being painted with bad work underneath.
There is no way to tell if a repair is GOOD or BAD 100%...so...common sense is to remove it and repair it again so YOU know it is correct.

You worrying about the car being painted with BAD bodywork is up to you and you going out and looking at the car when it is in process. AND IF all body work is ground out and replaced...all you will need to worry about if your bodyman/painter can do the repair correctly using QUALITY materials that HE can stand behind an warranty.

DUB
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Old Aug 6, 2017 | 07:02 PM
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way too much heat. paint will come off easy just by warming it. primer or filler will not separate . anyplace porous will not release. go around those spots. you are working with a badly bastardized body . your going to have to do way more sanding because of how much primer and filler was dumped on it. it takes very little heat to soften old paint .
peel strips off . do not go straight on. start a line and take 1/4 in to blade width strips off .

Last edited by porchdog; Aug 6, 2017 at 07:03 PM.
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