No problem, agreed...a few more tid bits of info, DSP300C 60' was a 1.48 on 28" Hoosier slicks and winters97gt is blower/nitrous, JoeG runs a 315/35r17 and I was mistaken about Justinjor as he ran a 275/40r17 M/T dr not Hoosier...Gary's C5Z ran a 275/40r17 Hoosier though and J-Rod ran et street bias as far as I know

 

Same clutch ??

Ram or BC2 ??



Thanks...........

 

Thanks PRE-ZO6........


.

 

My tires are Mickey Thompson 315/35/17's.

I find them notably easier to launch than the 275's. They are the same nice short height. But they will not fit on a c6 without rubbing unless you have z06 rear fenders or special offset wheels.

 

Thanks Joe G..........

.

 

yes ram

 

I've seen countless low 1.4x's on 26" et streets too.

 

Thats some of the reasons I like to have a manual 60' list.....is exactly that. The dynamics between the clutch material vs tire compound. So people could do a little research on the clutch/flywheel material in the list...IMO some obvious conclusions can be made.

Trying to find the balancing act with a dr and the clutch aggressiveness...aka;Coefficient of friction..........and that, to me is fun.

There is something to be said about the 60' times......dr's love to dead hook and bias need some wheel speed out of the hole. Meaning if your clutch has a high CF then a dr would be a tough tune(speaking of conventional clutches). A slick would probably suit a higher CF better....dr's don't play well with on/off switches...LOL
The higher the CF of the disc material, the less pressure or cw is generally needed to lock up the clutch........ meaning higher CF=softer pedal pressure and of course vise versa. Its very "common sense" once you start to understand it. So, the harder a disc "grabs" naturally the less pressure is needed to force it to grab.....but in saying that....the less it likes to slip.

examples
friction modifiers/base.........
semi metalic(woven)/organics
metalics
sintered metal
exotics

Base/conductor/lubricators materials...........
Kevlar
bronze
copper
carbon
fiberglass
brass
iron

And all of these above materials can be mixed and matched to form the "best" disc for a particular combo.



This is why clutch compound, tire choice and power play a huge role in our 60's..........And auto guys wonder why "us" manual guys are so obsessive.......LOL

And now......we all can see why adjustables are so popular in competitive racing.....

Thanks........and this is just my experience....to each their own...

 

10.42 @132 1.59 60' 315/40/16 MT drag radials Exo skel clutch NA without new mods. Was hoping to at least beat Brett's (pray) 10.21 best from years ago

 

Video of this run.

Chris you just need a little seat time and you will be FLYING. You were rusty in this run and the car had the catch can messed up (causing the smoke).

If you can, get some seat time before our big meet in November.

P.s. hope you were ok with Ernesto...was thinking about you.

 

Thanks Joe. Tropical storms and hurricanes usually skirt by us here.
I'll try to be back in September to feel the new 4:10's and a sub 1.45 60'

 

Great run 123sugey..........

.

 

So........

with the late model vette chassis.............does anyone feel that one setup works better than another with all other things being equal ?? Meaning a "slipping" clutch and dr's or a on/off clutch with some bias tires ??

Have anyone played with both scenarios with the same setup ??

I would like to hear the "theories" about which and why one would be quicker than another........and of course I'm referring to a well thought out combo.

Or do you guys feel its driver specific and/or prerogative ?? And yes, track and weather play a role....but I'm more interested in theory.



Thanks...........

 

Theory.....robz has this and more + reality.
But, everyone's ideas/opinions should be welcome.
Real world is where it's all at.

 

I use the word theory, to eliminate the discussion of driver talent.....thats all....

Reality is what I'm after.......

With the lack of suspension tuning options of the late model vettes, I would assume one setup would be superior to another. While not being driver dependent.
AKA....no torque arms, factory 4 link, pinon angles....etc to play with, just shock valving and caster & camber. Just seems with less variables in the equation a unanimous combo would prove superior.

Ultimately I would like to build a spread sheet/data base on clutch compounds, flywheels, tires and power in the late model vette world.

Thanks...........just looking for a discussion (theory) on this.

 

I've run 10 different clutches, from 4 different manufacturers(luk, centerforce, spec, monster) 5 different frictions (organic, carbon/organic, Kevlar, basalt/Kevlar, and ceramic) both full face, segmented and puck style. From 22lbs to 52lbs rotational mass and all gearing from mn6, mn12 and mz6 gearing both 3.42 and 4.10 with the different trans ratios. I've run 26" et streets, Hoosier 275/40r17 dr, and m/t 275/40r17 drag radials. My 2 cents for the easiest way to 60'...more gearing helps, a clutch that can be slipped yet doesn't produce to much heat or dust and a tire with a decent amount of sidewall without hurting gearing and that doesnt dead hook. Enough talk, let's run your car!

 

Heavier clutch is easier to launch as well and the moi helps on shifts IMO if the track is holding...

 

Also I'll add getting a clutch that 60' the best may not last the longest. I believe rattg ram twin organic only held up to 20 passes. I dont claim to be a great, but did put all the different combos in the 1.5x just had to make little driving adjustments for it to happen. Sincerely, Chris

 

LOL.....its 105 today and the only thing running is my mouth......

 

Chris,
my Tex OZ700 Z-Grip and steel flywheel just weighed in at 44lbs.

If this puppy doesn't last, your Monster is next.

Pitt