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All you have to do is read the magazine it tells the mods, a better comparison is C6 LS2 LS3all the sticks dpc 300 bracolli and c6devil svt haha all over 500rwhp great heads great drivers, but a bolt/on auto beat tree and close to the other then Norm and me with H&C way ahead and we have so much more to go. funny thing about parasitic loss the sticks dyno how much higher? make it a 500 rwhp auto and stick and see who dominates especially the best out of 10
Non of those cars cut the 60' in the 1.3x so I definitely don't think that's a fair comparison nor did the one I witnessed remove the belt...best of 10 challenge with an auto, you're funny never would a stick in their right mind challenge the consistency rotfl
Seriously though you're defending the auto of course and LSoholic is defending the manual, lets see the advantage that you feel Robz's car had over hotwheels's and he can state the technological advances that hotwheels car possessed being built years later...besides the weight, the main difference imho is the powerband difference in gearing.
Also, another thing worth noting.....the y-body is at a serious disadvantage because of the lack of a deeper rear gear option and IRS design (manually speaking of course).
best of 10 challenge with an auto, you're funny never would a stick in their right mind challenge the consistency rotfl
A manual is deadly consistent in all weather/track conditions. For people who know how to tune a clutch......or are we talking about soccer moms who decide to go to the track in their free time ??....
Non of those cars cut the 60' in the 1.3x so I definitely don't think that's a fair comparison nor did the one I witnessed remove the belt...best of 10 challenge with an auto, you're funny never would a stick in their right mind challenge the consistency rotfl
Seriously though you're defending the auto of course and LSoholic is defending the manual, lets see the advantage that you feel Robz's car had over hotwheels's and he can state the technological advances that hotwheels car possessed being built years later...besides the weight, the main difference imho is the powerband difference in gearing.
A manual is deadly consistent in all weather/track conditions. For people who know how to tune a clutch......or are we talking about soccer moms who decide to go to the track in their free time ??....
I agree, but were talking, a clutch in a C6, changing it to one that cost more then a good auto trans build, and I have the stock trans just a converter, i can make 5 hot laps easily and have done it many times, no cool down , from starting line to starting line no wait except maybe 1 or 2 cars i will leave the car run right behind them and run better each pass, good luck with that in a c6 stick, yes you can be consistent with a stick but not on record breaking passes, I never see back up videos the next pass we're not talking pro stock cars, a driver can be very mechanical and the c6 clutch doesn't cooperate
Also, another thing worth noting.....the y-body is at a serious disadvantage because of the lack of a deeper rear gear option and IRS design (manually speaking of course).
2.97 first with 4.10s and a 26" tall tire isn't lacking in gear in my books, almost identical to 2.66 first with 4.56 and a 26" tire in a heavier f-body.
Originally Posted by LSOHOLIC
A manual is deadly consistent in all weather/track conditions. For people who know how to tune a clutch......or are we talking about soccer moms who decide to go to the track in their free time ??....
True, but are we talking about a clutch that requires an extended cool down, needing to be swapped out/adjusted or cooled down with a fan?
Originally Posted by dennis50nj
Robz went 1.4s Rob went 1.3s
My mistake I thought it was a 1.38, but realized it was 1.42...here's his mods, very consistent not sure of the time frame between the passes
My setup is:
Anger Management Racing heads/cam package
TFS 215 heads
Custom Cam
American Racing Headers
Fast 90/90
4.10 rear built by AMR
M6 trans built by AMR
Vararam
Drag package with drag radials
The car is a street car with some minimal weight reduction.
My 4 passes were:
10.08@137+
10.04@137+
10.003@138+
*9.985@138+
Originally Posted by LSOHOLIC
You get this.....
And we get this....
Haha, how many people do you think own or have access to that machine to set up their slipper clutches? I think the Carruthers have 3 in the US
Originally Posted by dennis50nj
I agree, but were talking, a clutch in a C6, changing it to one that cost more then a good auto trans build, and I have the stock trans just a converter, i can make 5 hot laps easily and have done it many times, no cool down , from starting line to starting line no wait except maybe 1 or 2 cars i will leave the car run right behind them and run better each pass, good luck with that in a c6 stick, yes you can be consistent with a stick but not on record breaking passes, I never see back up videos the next pass we're not talking pro stock cars, a driver can be very mechanical and the c6 clutch doesn't cooperate
Exactly my point even though I'm a manual vette owner lol
Here's Hot Wheels mods:
Naturally Aspirated 346 Auto.
stock bottom end
ARP rod bolts and Head studs
Trick Flow heads
Fast intake & fuel rails
A.M.R. Custom Cam
Pfadt motor mounts
Morel lifters
yella terra rockers
Meziere Electric Water Pump
Vararam Air Intake
American Racing Headers
Yank 4000
A.M.R. Trans -
My setup is: check - Anger Management Racing heads/cam package check - TFS 215 heads check - Custom Cam check - American Racing Headers check - Fast 90/90
4.10 rear built by AMR
M6 trans built by AMR check - Vararam check - Drag package with drag radials check - The car is a street car with some minimal weight reduction.
AMR did do my gears/rear
AMR Trans
Trans cooler
EWP
etc..\
Each car is holding off a lot of information about the build so you can only compare basic information.
My opinion:
I think it could be a close race but feel a 9.9X is a lot to ask for an Auto. ... 10.0's 10.1X maybe!
Just for the record, one mod that wasn't listed is:
Last edited by Rob Petyo; Jul 4, 2013 at 04:15 PM.
Reason: spell n
The average M driver vs the average A driver with converter will win. Now with great M drivers like RobZ Gary Joe g Ranger Mitch G, it wont be as big of a gain but I believe it will still be a gain when the clutch setup sucks so bad on the vette, now I cant prove it, and the M guys cant prove it unless Gary goes A
My car was purpose built to run the 10.50 index during the Corvette Challenge, that is no more. The NOS was put in for those HOT / Humid days of summer, playing with a 50 shot or so to run the time but I really never had it working. I recently replaced the controller (ZEX) and a new Lingenfelter 2-step. Problem seems to be fixed.
I think You and I should catch a nice cool day at ATCO and run some cooler plugs and um rrrip! I'll let you know which one I'll be bringing
I agree, but were talking, a clutch in a C6, changing it to one that cost more then a good auto trans build, and I have the stock trans just a converter, i can make 5 hot laps easily and have done it many times, no cool down , from starting line to starting line no wait except maybe 1 or 2 cars i will leave the car run right behind them and run better each pass, good luck with that in a c6 stick, yes you can be consistent with a stick but not on record breaking passes, I never see back up videos the next pass we're not talking pro stock cars, a driver can be very mechanical and the c6 clutch doesn't cooperate
Your prob right about the mojority of manual guys. But the ones that are serious have ways to keep the clutch cool......I cut two holes in my bellhousing and brazed "scoops" one facing forward to cool the clutch as well as disapate the clutch dust and the other hole/scoop rear facing "scupper" (little bit of ram air cooling @ 132 mph and on the return road). Hot lapping has yet to be a prob....also the alum fw helps disapate heat also.
I designed and installed it the way i wanted it, I can run with my NA street & race tune, its the only tune I have but i set it up with the fuel cell and high pressure pump plus i have a boosta pump on the motor and bigger injectors running tr6 i have no knock retard, i have rear the plugs perfect, i can watch my temps go down when i hit it, I have tried bre8s non projected tips but the car doesn't run right at low rpm, so im going to try bre7s and maybe change the tune for it, I don't have to pull timing im running C16 when sprayed,it works great
Your prob right about the mojority of manual guys. But the ones that are serious have ways to keep the clutch cool......I cut two holes in my bellhousing and brazed "scoops" one facing forward to cool the clutch as well as disapate the clutch dust and the other hole/scoop rear facing "scupper" (little bit of ram air cooling @ 132 mph and on the return road). Hot lapping has yet to be a prob....also the alum fw helps disapate heat also.
yes I know all the tricks,tick master formato posted all the opening and blo3w the dust out, the board on the pedal and seat to keep open the big fans, but i have still seen only 1 pass and complete cool cycles for record runs, dont get me wrong I love a M, my first and most of my cars were M's I'm actually a real good M driver, I'm just saying if you take a m stock, and an A stock, put 342 in the A and converter the M great clutch and the 342, they will dyno how much different? and the A will win with less rwhp
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