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I just ran across this thread too, and read the whole thing. It's really cool to see everyone volunteer their knowledge about various things.
At first I was panicked for you when I read the wife wanted to keep all the receipts. Heck, even I never get to see all the receipts. It was neat to see the evolution in her thoughts about the car.
Reading like a Mystery novel. Clues, hidden treasures, and a fair damsel. But the damsel keeping the books is the scariest part of this novel if your journey follows my BB car’s. Just keep showing her prices for ‘67 BBs once in a while to keep the project financially lubed. But hit it as hard as you can early while her enthusiasm’s still high. Your decision to put back a BB I think is financially wise, but unless you’re cash flush, a good 454 will free cash for other expenses. I’m finally reaching the end of surprise expenses restoring our BB. A period correct 427 is a big ticket item. Loving the whole story.... how did your brother accumulate 1200 lbs of misc papers. Lots of fun twists and turns to this novel. Following.
If you really wish to say it's a 427 you can find a 396 crankshaft and convert a 454 into a 427. 454 blocks are still available for reasonable money. This in no way will help value of the car but it certainly can help you enjoy a 427 engine.
My buddy has a 69 SS396 Chevelle and he is always looking for a 427 block to swap in.
I have suggested this to him several times and he refuses, dead set on needing an original. It won't ever be numbers matching so I don't get that desire.
Glad you are making progress and enjoying the adventure.
Last edited by Westlotorn; Jun 10, 2018 at 04:47 PM.
Lotsacubes, my brother was a hoarder, literally. I found all of his first pay stubs from the early 60's. Every college newspaper, catalogue, regular newspapers, receipts to nothing and even those stupid envelopes the bank gives you when go through the drive thru. If I had a nickel for every bank envelope I would be able to pay cash for a period correct 427 complete engine. I guess we all have our quirks and his was keeping everything. My sister in law figured that in 12 days I spent around 150 -160 hours going through, sorting and loading stuff into the auction trailer. I love my brother, but man that was a beating. I think I posted this pic at the start but there is a corvette buried in there.
Westlorn, that was my original mindset except just leave it as a 454. She was against this money trap in the beginning but has killed my initial budget over and over. Not that I am really complaining. It will never be matching and neither I or my son care to have it judged at least he doesn't at this point. He did say he hopes to be driving it when it turns 100.
I guess I will say last Friday was my official start to restoration by getting the body ready to lift off. I started on the rear a little on Friday. My son and I worked together for about 5 hours Saturday and I spent another 4 on Sunday. I think I could go longer but the wife would get upset if I rerouted the living room A/C to the garage. Radiator is out along with misc body parts. I removed the grill since it was only hanging on with the top center screw. I don't know how many bubba's had this car before my brother, but I guess it is actually kind of nice in a weird way. I don't know how things did not fall off this car. Every piece is missing a bolt or two or even more so things come off quick. Down side is that some of the bolts on the same mounts are different sizes. If you have never used Aero Kroil rust penetrator, its great. Giving the body mount bolts a shot day and hopefully they will not fight to much. In the overall pic of the body and parts you will see the long strap between the broom and stool on the floor. That is the mounting bar at the bottom of the body for the long lower strip panel. Was I supposed to leave that on for body lift? I have seen pics with it on and off. Also, can that bumper brace be straightened or do I need a new one (pic of braces side by side)? So far I am either bagging screws or taping them in their location on the part they came from as well as photographing before removal. Here are the current pics.
I would straighten that bumper brace and not think twice about it. Others may have the best way to straighten but that part is old Iron and it will live to play another day.
I have Kroil and use it as needed but you might wish to know that a 50/50 mix of Acetone and Tranny fluid has proven to work better than Kroil. Kroil may be better than all others including PB Blaster but the 50/50 mix has proven the best to break down rust for bolt removal. Hope that helps.
Last edited by Westlotorn; Jun 12, 2018 at 02:08 AM.
I got the kroil free, but just one can. I do have some trans fluid and acetone. I’ll add that as well. Thanks. So do I need to put that bar back on the lower body before I lift or is it okay without?
I got the kroil free, but just one can. I do have some trans fluid and acetone. I’ll add that as well. Thanks. So do I need to put that bar back on the lower body before I lift or is it okay without?
If you are talking about the metal strip just below the door, that's what your lifting clips fit under. Otherwise you're lifting on fiberglass. I have not explored just what that strip is attached to, or how, maybe I don't WANT to know, but mine were both on for the lift.
You might enjoy this book as you go through the restoration. It is one man's personal journey on the total restoration of his '67. It is great motivation and discusses many of the pitfalls and things that come up in such a project.
elwood13, congratulations of the family prize. All the indicators as mentioned by others say it was a BB car originally, probably 427/390 based on the tach.
I'm not going to re-read all the posts from here forward so let me just ask and forgive me if it's been explained already. I see several mentions on here the car was probably a 427/390. I understand it was likely a big block, and the oil gauge and tach eliminate a 427/435. But how are we eliminating a 427/400? I *thought* the only difference was the carbs, manifold, and perhaps fuel lines for the triples. What am I missing?
Last edited by Railroadman; Jun 13, 2018 at 07:41 AM.
just saw this thread. I am working on getting a barn find 66 big block and I really learned a lot by reading this thread. Just wanted to offer my congratulations and a big thanks to everyone who offered great information.
If you are talking about the metal strip just below the door, that's what your lifting clips fit under. Otherwise you're lifting on fiberglass. I have not explored just what that strip is attached to, or how, maybe I don't WANT to know, but mine were both on for the lift.
I took my strips off prior to lifting the body from the frame.
My "clips" on the sling actually lifted by reaching up under the edge, and up to the bottom of the birdcage.
I really don't think it matters either way if the metal strip is on or not.
I took my strips off prior to lifting the body from the frame.
My "clips" on the sling actually lifted by reaching up under the edge, and up to the bottom of the birdcage.
I really don't think it matters either way if the metal strip is on or not.
Pat
NOT having the strips on would help the clips fit better, mine seemed like they needed to be spread wider. Maybe that's why, perhaps I should have removed the strip.
So I’m out looking at the car to see all the wiring and stuff that needs to come off for body lift and notice I have two ceramic resistors. One has a connection and the other doesn’t (the lower one in the pic). Am I supposed to have two or is the upper one a bubba add on option?