It CAN...but usually only at very long lengths. The heavier the gauge, the less it matters. Take 10 minutes and read the article I linked in post #97. It's really good stuff.

 

 

Yes, they should come with connectors already. The problem I ran into is that the connectors for my speakers are for 18-14 gauge wire. I have to modify them (or source new ones) to make them work. Another way is to run 10 gauge from the amp to the crossover and then 14 gauge to the speakers themselves. Since it's not a long distance at all, it shouldn't matter to run the smaller gauge wire just to the woofer/tweeter. Food for thought.

 

Possibly and can have a dramatic effect on the amplifier itself. Think of it this way. The amplifier is a cannister of pressurized water. The speaker wire is the opening for the pressurized water to get out. The larger gauge wire is a bigger opening for the "water" to get out and your amplifier doesn't have to work as hard to push the water out. The resistance of your speakers, 4 ohm or 8 ohm for example is more like your amplifier as a bathtub full of water and the resistance of the speaker the size of the opening to get out. The lower the resistance the larger the opening. Too low of resistance and it can give your amplifier problems.

As an example wire up an amplifier rated stable into a 4 ohm load to speaker with 2 ohms of resistance using 50 ft of 18 gauge wire and if pushed, your amp will go into thermal shutdown. Take that same amp and wire it to an 8 ohm speaker with 10 ft of 10 gauge wire and she will run cool as a cucumber.

As far as sound quality, the biggest difference I have noticed in an A/B comparison between thin gauge and thick gauge wire using a pink noise generator is a drop off of low frequencies so yes I believe it has an effect on sound quality. It is definitely not a place to skimp anyway. Most of my systems have run 12 gauge or larger.

 

 

 

Good options, good info, keep it coming... I've a '08 Vert.

It seems there are quite a few of us in the same boat. I too am looking to change the HU, and ALL the speakers.

PLAN:
- Pioneer HU paired with 4 chnl amp, the amp supports the front component speakers, and 6.5" set of rear 2-way speakers (for fill sound).
- A 2nd amp would be used to install slim Sub behind the waterfall...OR a self-powered sub directly hooked with the HU.

Concerns are ~ How to install the 6.5" front component speakers in a 10" OEM Bose cavity? How to fill the cavity and installation?
How to install a 6.5" 2-way as a fill speaker in the rear?
What self-powered sub/tube to use that would fit flush behind the waterfall / or seats?

 

These: https://www.corvettemods.com/C6-Corv...n_p_18008.html

Or these:https://www.nakidparts.com/corvette-speaker-mounts

I went with the 2nd set.

You wont need 6.5s in the rear as the 5.25 will be plenty "bright" when amplified. Subs really come down to preference. How big and bad do you want...or how neat and organized. Stealth boxes are pretty popular and should be more than enough for the average enthusiast.

 

Nope, you just have to get the right size female spade terminals that will accept that larger gauge. In a real pinch, I have also taken the larger gauge wire, stripped it back 1/2 inch or so and then trimmed enough strands out of the stripped section to get it to insert into the connector for crimping. Not the preferred way, but the make it work way in a pinch.

 

Here is an example if you are looking for the connectors to attach speaker wires to speakers:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/100-YELLOW-...-/352211234727

 

 

^ The 2nd link seems to be helpful. I've sent them a message, and will order the mount needed to replace the OEM speakers with 6.5" components.

So, I already have these NEW (I like them) - https://www.crutchfield.com/S-LZ5Cxi...nce-6002i.html

What do I do with them? I'm looking for component speakers (2 way with separate tweeters), so can't use these in the fronts - I thought I'd use them in the rear then...

 

You may be able to make them fit in the rear...but it will take some work. I myself have never tried and I'm unfamiliar if there are adapters out there. So it may take some research on your part...or being the first guy to do it.

 

I actually used the plates in the second link from nakidparts. They worked great and are rigid enough that the mid bass punch coming from my doors is phenomenal.

 

 

8/10 gauge is ideal/overkill for the sub...but as long as it's not smaller than a high quality 16 gauge, you should be fine. Sky high audio 16 gauge is actually misleading...it's built like a 10 gauge.

 

 

Your call really man. Run it to the most convenient places for you. A straightened out wire coat hanger through the door "accordion" or "conduit" helps run the wire through the doors. The only "foul" would to be running it on top of (or in extreme close proximity to)your power wires. At the same time...you'd be hard pressed to "hear" that feed back. One things for sure...keep your RCAs WELL AWAY from the power and ground wires. You'll get interference from hell.