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will be very nice. Only thing I would love to have seen him/you do is notch into the b-pillar hoop and actually run the tubing up into it. Increases head room and visibility, but requires some fun with the plasma cutter.
Thanks, Brent. Pretty much the same cage as Scott, Jason and Mark's. Mark had a new dash bar put in and I am going to use the stock bar like Scott and Jason. My cutoff switch will be in the same place as Mark's. I am not opting for the seat bracing on the floor. My Sparco bases sit down in the indentions in the floor and the seat bracing design to tie the tunnel to the floor sill would raise my seat 1/2" unlike the normal 1/8". I can always add it later if I want to custom build the seat base.
The one variance to mine is I am having NASCAR bars put on both sides. I see it as ballast for the right side of the car in addition to safety for any passengers. It will not count against the 250lbs of ballast limit if I ever need that much (doubt it) and it is already somewhat low and as far right as you can get which will help David with corner balancing.
You sure that the tank will fit back in the hole with the cage pad wrapped around the frame like that? We had a HECK OF A TIME getting my passenger tank back in and my pad had just a little welds at the corner...not a steel plate wrapped around it?
Yes... it's a tight fit, but they go back in if you do it correctly. Plus, the guy doing Kevin's cage has done a bunch of them.
Originally Posted by davidfarmer
will be very nice. Only thing I would love to have seen him/you do is notch into the b-pillar hoop and actually run the tubing up into it.
If you're going to go to all that trouble just cut it out of the car
Last edited by travisnd; Dec 12, 2011 at 12:55 PM.
Kevin & others... I just cut the passenger-side/rear wiring out of the car at the foot-well; no issues. First, I removed the b-pillar ground that gave Val's car trouble and verified that the car would start fine. Then I cut it all out and taped the ends of each wire and then taped them all back together.
What does that mean? I'd guess it means that Val's car had/has a loose ground somewhere else. If you fish your manual trunk release out the license plate area then you don't need any power to the back of the car for anything.
Kevin & others... I just cut the passenger-side/rear wiring out of the car at the foot-well; no issues. First, I removed the b-pillar ground that gave Val's car trouble and verified that the car would start fine. Then I cut it all out and taped the ends of each wire and then taped them all back together.
What does that mean? I'd guess it means that Val's car had/has a loose ground somewhere else. If you fish your manual trunk release out the license plate area then you don't need any power to the back of the car for anything.
Good luck... looking forward to more pics.
Val's car had started earlier that day. I'd started it 100 times in my shop and test drove it on multiple shake down runs. Then suddenly: dead.
Val's car had started earlier that day. I'd started it 100 times in my shop and test drove it on multiple shake down runs. Then suddenly: dead.
It had started fine when I was moving it around here during the winter, seems like either that morning or night before was when it wouldn't fire trying to get it out of the shop.
I wasn't around when that ground was tightened in the paddock but it fired up right after that. I don't think he's had any issues with it since.
That whole wiring pack is the (bottom I think) pack on the fuse block, you can unscrew the whole thing and toss it. Once you get into the other 2 packs, you gotta get picky and choosy about what you keep/leave.