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cannot remove distributor

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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 03:43 PM
  #41  
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Can you rotate teh housing when the dizzy is in its farthest up, jammed position?

It it doesn't rotate, that IS the jam, at the oil gallery boss. If the pin is causing the problem, the housing would rotate freely.
Old Jan 30, 2017 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by plaidside
Good thought Frankie.
To test this theory I would pull up as hard as I can and at the same time rotate the distributor shaft, if there is resistance then I would suspect you are correct.
But in the thousands of distributors I have pulled I have never encountered the pin coming out. 2 + 2 gum cutter always worked for me when a distributor was stuck.
Joe
Wow, that's a lot of distributors to pull.
Old Jan 30, 2017 | 03:48 PM
  #43  
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Drop the pan. Remove the oil pump. Take a brass drift and give a big wack to the bottom of the distributor.
Old Jan 30, 2017 | 04:07 PM
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I just talked with the owner of a well respected machine shop having been in business 40-45 years. He has had one instance of pulling a dizzy held up by sludge. It took quite a lot of grunt to get it out.
Having said that, here is a thought. I've been looking at one of my old distributors. What if just one shim (he said he shimmed it) has broken. One half is remaining in place, but having been worn enough letting it stick out enough to create the problem. Or could it be the shims he used, when installed, went in perfectly aligned, but the inside diameter of them was larger than they should be, thus allowing one or more shims to move out of position. I'm exhausted on this. Dennis
Old Jan 30, 2017 | 04:09 PM
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When I pull it up 1/2 inch, I can't turn the dist. But the vacuum advance shaft turns mostly all the way when it's raised up 1/2 inch. I feel gears come in and out so that's not it. But a solid hold when 1/2 inch up, like if I was to use crowbar something will snap.
Old Jan 30, 2017 | 05:05 PM
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ok, try this; rattle gun. I would remove the top piece of the distributor and use a soft metal (lead) and rattle the distributor while fully seated. That might (should) unstick it.
Old Jan 30, 2017 | 05:18 PM
  #47  
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What would happen if OP, Daren67, removed all the top end stuff off the distributor and tap the top of the distributor down into engine and then try and lift it out. Could that break it loose?
My $.02 trying to help.

Also you could try spraying it with a 50/50 mixture of ATF and acetone.

Last edited by Yellow6t7; Jan 30, 2017 at 05:24 PM.
Old Jan 30, 2017 | 05:19 PM
  #48  
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Daren, Check your PM.
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Daren67
Appreciate every ones help. Did not get it out. And if one more person tells me to put some muscle in it I will send you a picture of my biceps. I put two 1x2 pieces of wood 10 inches long and tried to pry on both sides evenly. Did not budge. All I can think of is The cans of gumout and PB were almost empty when I started so I will quit today and pick up some kroil and gumout Tomorrow after work and give it a whirl.
Hi, Just a thought, can you remove the tachometer drive gear brass threaded housing and the internal tach drive gear BEFORE you try to remove the distributor? Your problem does not seem likely but it could be the gears are damaged and are preventing the main shaft from reversing when you are trying to lift it up.Beyond that there is no other physical barrier to removing the shaft unless it is sticking onto the oil pump drive shaft or the camshaft rear drive gear is not allowing it to rise due to damage or severe wear to the actual gears. I believe it just needs a strong upward "yank". possibly try attaching some type of slide hammer to the distributor body by means of a strap wrapped around the housing and attached to the slide hammer to facilitate the upward yank. call me if you wish further conversation.

seven o eight -- 738---- six-five six-five 8am to 8pm c.s.t.
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Bluestripe67
Daren, Check your PM.
Why go stealth ?
We'd ALL like to know the resolution of this...its buggin' me now and I'm outta ideas. I'm not a fan of levering on the thing like there's no tomorrow as something is wrong beyond simply being 'stuck in the mud'.

Call it 'sky is falling' if you like....
Old Jan 30, 2017 | 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Bluestripe67
I just talked with the owner of a well respected machine shop having been in business 40-45 years. He has had one instance of pulling a dizzy held up by sludge. It took quite a lot of grunt to get it out.
Having said that, here is a thought. I've been looking at one of my old distributors. What if just one shim (he said he shimmed it) has broken. One half is remaining in place, but having been worn enough letting it stick out enough to create the problem. Or could it be the shims he used, when installed, went in perfectly aligned, but the inside diameter of them was larger than they should be, thus allowing one or more shims to move out of position. I'm exhausted on this. Dennis
Dennis Email sent to you.
Old Jan 30, 2017 | 05:54 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by C.W.C.
Hi, Just a thought, can you remove the tachometer drive gear brass threaded housing and the internal tach drive gear BEFORE you try to remove the distributor? Your problem does not seem likely but it could be the gears are damaged and are preventing the main shaft from reversing when you are trying to lift it up.Beyond that there is no other physical barrier to removing the shaft unless it is sticking onto the oil pump drive shaft or the camshaft rear drive gear is not allowing it to rise due to damage or severe wear to the actual gears. I believe it just needs a strong upward "yank". possibly try attaching some type of slide hammer to the distributor body by means of a strap wrapped around the housing and attached to the slide hammer to facilitate the upward yank. call me if you wish further conversation.

seven o eight -- 738---- six-five six-five 8am to 8pm c.s.t.
chuck
after I posted this I had an afterthought. Was the distributor ever removed and disassembled previously? could the distributor driven gear (bottom gear on distributor) retaining pin have come "out" enough to prohibit the distributor to be removed
Old Jan 30, 2017 | 06:03 PM
  #53  
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The one thing that hasn't happened here was the OP taking the advice that has been offered numerous times to use a pry bar under the lip to attempt to remove the distributor. I've dealt with one stuck distributor before and it acted very similar to this. I ended up using a smaller pry bar and tapping it while providing leverage to the lip on the distributor. It took a lot more force than I thought would be necessary (and I'm a caveman engineer), but it popped loose. Until the OP tries this, everything else (pin issues, etc) is just speculation. Just my useless $.02

Last edited by Al T; Jan 30, 2017 at 06:03 PM.
Old Jan 30, 2017 | 06:15 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Daren67
When I pull it up 1/2 inch, I can't turn the dist. But the vacuum advance shaft turns mostly all the way when it's raised up 1/2 inch. I feel gears come in and out so that's not it. But a solid hold when 1/2 inch up, like if I was to use crowbar something will snap.
If you are talking about the distributor shaft, as long as it clears the cam gear, it should turn freely all the way around when you pull it up. If it does, you're not screwed.

When you say you can't turn the distributor itself when it's pulled up the half inch, that tells me there must be some gunk or sludge in the tight area at the oil gallery. If it was some metal obstruction, like an out of place shim, or the pin, you would have a hard metallic clunk when you pull it up, but you would still be able to turn it.

If it is gunk, it won't have the same clunk when you lift it. You have to lift while twisting until you wear your way through the gunk to get it out. (Or pry it out)


Gerry

Last edited by Mossy66; Jan 30, 2017 at 06:17 PM.
Old Jan 30, 2017 | 06:23 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by C.W.C.
after I posted this I had an afterthought. Was the distributor ever removed and disassembled previously? could the distributor driven gear (bottom gear on distributor) retaining pin have come "out" enough to prohibit the distributor to be removed
Good thought - I already covered it a while back though
Old Jan 30, 2017 | 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
Why go stealth ?
We'd ALL like to know the resolution of this...its buggin' me now and I'm outta ideas. I'm not a fan of levering on the thing like there's no tomorrow as something is wrong beyond simply being 'stuck in the mud'.

Call it 'sky is falling' if you like....
Old Jan 30, 2017 | 06:58 PM
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Might as well pull the pan, drop the oil pump and see what falls out...

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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by C.W.C.

I believe it just needs a strong upward "yank". possibly try attaching some type of slide hammer to the distributor body by means of a strap wrapped around the housing and attached to the slide hammer to facilitate the upward yank.
Originally Posted by Al T
The one thing that hasn't happened here was the OP taking the advice that has been offered numerous times to use a pry bar under the lip to attempt to remove the distributor. I've dealt with one stuck distributor before and it acted very similar to this. I ended up using a smaller pry bar and tapping it while providing leverage to the lip on the distributor. It took a lot more force than I thought would be necessary (and I'm a caveman engineer), but it popped loose. Until the OP tries this, everything else (pin issues, etc) is just speculation. Just my useless $.02
Old Jan 30, 2017 | 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by C.W.C.
after I posted this I had an afterthought. Was the distributor ever removed and disassembled previously? could the distributor driven gear (bottom gear on distributor) retaining pin have come "out" enough to prohibit the distributor to be removed
Post 32:
Dist was out in late 1980s for shimming as well.
I have no helpful advice to add, but I'm sure watching this one with interest to see what it turns out to be!
Old Jan 30, 2017 | 07:12 PM
  #60  
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Didn't read all 59 posts. Penetrating oil, like you've done, and this: use a slide hammer, of the type used to pull dents and gears, etc. I have had to do this on a few old Ford engines....and it worked every time. The jarring/shock was the solution. You will need one with claws that go under the distributor body. Good luck.



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