cannot remove distributor
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,663
Likes: 361
From: Smyrna/Vinings, Georgia
Daren you say in post 65 that top turns left but not right. Then post 67 you say rotor doesn't move. Need clarification. Then post 32 you say distributor was out for shimming.
Who did that and is there a chance they used loose roll pin? If so maybe tap starter with distributor seated. Try that a few times and see if distance the distributor comes up changes.
Who did that and is there a chance they used loose roll pin? If so maybe tap starter with distributor seated. Try that a few times and see if distance the distributor comes up changes.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 14,370
Likes: 6,361
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
If that's the case, you're not dealing with crud. Something mechanical is preventing it from coming out. Most likely a drive gear roll pin starting to back out. I'm confused as to weather or not you're getting the distributor up high enough to disengage the drive gear from the cam: In one post you indicate that it's coming up high enough that the rotor can be turned, but in other posts you indicate it's not. I don't think it will disengage from the cam in only 1/2", so if I were you, I'd pull the spark plugs out and turn the crankshaft a little by hand. Turn it about 20 degrees-or-so at a time. After each time, try to pull the distributor out. If the roll pin is the problem, the distributor will come out when the roll pin is positioned parallel to the camshaft centerline.
Whatever you do, don't attach the distributor to an engine hoist as suggested above. That would be an exceptionally bad idea.
Lars
Whatever you do, don't attach the distributor to an engine hoist as suggested above. That would be an exceptionally bad idea.
Lars
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 58,061
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Army
I've been calling roll pin since post #29; I'm interested to see if this is the problem...
I think Lars has a good approach rotating the engine to work the pin around to a 'sweet spot'...
An engine hoist....whew...now THAT'S going 'medieval'...
I think Lars has a good approach rotating the engine to work the pin around to a 'sweet spot'...
An engine hoist....whew...now THAT'S going 'medieval'...
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,192
Likes: 194
From: East Coast
If that's the case, you're not dealing with crud. Something mechanical is preventing it from coming out. Most likely a drive gear roll pin starting to back out. I'm confused as to weather or not you're getting the distributor up high enough to disengage the drive gear from the cam: In one post you indicate that it's coming up high enough that the rotor can be turned, but in other posts you indicate it's not. I don't think it will disengage from the cam in only 1/2", so if I were you, I'd pull the spark plugs out and turn the crankshaft a little by hand. Turn it about 20 degrees-or-so at a time. After each time, try to pull the distributor out. If the roll pin is the problem, the distributor will come out when the roll pin is positioned parallel to the camshaft centerline.
Whatever you do, don't attach the distributor to an engine hoist as suggested above. That would be an exceptionally bad idea.
Lars
Whatever you do, don't attach the distributor to an engine hoist as suggested above. That would be an exceptionally bad idea.
Lars
Would have expected that Daren had already tried to rotate the engine.
Looking back at all the posts, I guess he didn't try that approach. Think that would that be one of the first things to try before prybars and hammers?
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,711
Likes: 179
From: Hightstown NJ
Ok used a pry bar. put moderate pressure, nothing. When its up 1/2 inch, the top spins counterclockwise all the way around. clockwise however does not spin. I also put more gumout down shaft. I think I need to remove bronze tach drive gear in dist first before i go any further. I will remove that, try to pull up again and report back this week (as i work during days). Appreciate all your help currently and in the past. 
I'd still like to know if the distributor BODY itself can turn or not when it's pulled up to its limit.
Verne
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Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Greenville, Indiana
Lots of questions not answered, misinformation and conflicting info here.
If the engine and/or rotor had been turned a half turn, many posts back, or it was specifically stated the rotor wouldn't turn freely, that would have cleared up a lot.
If the engine and/or rotor had been turned a half turn, many posts back, or it was specifically stated the rotor wouldn't turn freely, that would have cleared up a lot.
Last edited by MikeM; Feb 1, 2017 at 09:42 AM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 834
Likes: 86
From: CT
Guys, appreciate everyone's help. Please bear in mine I work 8-7pm EST and have many young kids to put to bed. I work on the Vette 9pm-10pm (or when the wife calls me up).
To answer some questions: 1) The dist Shaft comes up only 1/2 inch and cannot clear the cam. So when I turn the shaft clockwise it sits right back down on the cam. So the rotor actually never moved since I have been trying to get out. 2) I have used some force but not excessive force yet. I am being patient on this as car is stock and intake is aluminum and I do not want to be pulling oil pan or engine in my garage. The car was apart for one year 2015 for paint and want to drive the thing come this April. I do not have own a prybar. All I have is a medium screwdriver, 2ft crowbar, and 1x2 piece of solid maple wood 6ft long. 3) I have tried Lars approach (pulled plugs/rotated engine) but only did 180 degrees this morning before work (at 7am). I will try the remaining 180 degrees tonight after I pick up some PB, Kroil or WD 40. I thank everyone for your help with this. And will report back either late tonight or first thing tomorrow am.
To answer some questions: 1) The dist Shaft comes up only 1/2 inch and cannot clear the cam. So when I turn the shaft clockwise it sits right back down on the cam. So the rotor actually never moved since I have been trying to get out. 2) I have used some force but not excessive force yet. I am being patient on this as car is stock and intake is aluminum and I do not want to be pulling oil pan or engine in my garage. The car was apart for one year 2015 for paint and want to drive the thing come this April. I do not have own a prybar. All I have is a medium screwdriver, 2ft crowbar, and 1x2 piece of solid maple wood 6ft long. 3) I have tried Lars approach (pulled plugs/rotated engine) but only did 180 degrees this morning before work (at 7am). I will try the remaining 180 degrees tonight after I pick up some PB, Kroil or WD 40. I thank everyone for your help with this. And will report back either late tonight or first thing tomorrow am.
Last edited by Daren67; Feb 1, 2017 at 10:25 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 17,571
Likes: 3,459
From: Fresno California
Post 45 states that the distributor itself is stuck partially in the block, and won't turn. But the distributor shaft turns partially. About the only thing I can think of that would cause the distributor body not to turn while the shaft does turn is a mechanical interference between the distributor casting and the intake/engine. If the roll pin was backed out, you would think that you would still be able to turn the distributor in the intake, even in a limited way.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 834
Likes: 86
From: CT
Guys, appreciate everyone's help. Please bear in mine I work 8-7pm EST and have many young kids to put to bed. I work on the Vette 9pm-10pm (or when the wife calls me up).
To answer some questions: 1) The dist Shaft comes up only 1/2 inch and cannot clear the cam. So when I turn the shaft clockwise it sits right back down on the cam. So the rotor actually never moved since I have been trying to get out. 2) I have used some force but not excessive force yet. I am being patient on this as car is stock and intake is aluminum and I do not want to be pulling oil pan or engine in my garage. The car was apart for one year 2015 for paint and want to drive the thing come this April. I do not have own a prybar. All I have is a medium screwdriver, 2ft crowbar, and 1x2 piece of solid maple wood 6ft long. 3) I have tried Lars approach (pulled plugs/rotated engine) but only did 180 degrees this morning before work (at 7am). I will try the remaining 180 degrees tonight after I pick up some PB, Kroil or WD 40. I thank everyone for your help with this. And will report back either late tonight or first thing tomorrow am.
To answer some questions: 1) The dist Shaft comes up only 1/2 inch and cannot clear the cam. So when I turn the shaft clockwise it sits right back down on the cam. So the rotor actually never moved since I have been trying to get out. 2) I have used some force but not excessive force yet. I am being patient on this as car is stock and intake is aluminum and I do not want to be pulling oil pan or engine in my garage. The car was apart for one year 2015 for paint and want to drive the thing come this April. I do not have own a prybar. All I have is a medium screwdriver, 2ft crowbar, and 1x2 piece of solid maple wood 6ft long. 3) I have tried Lars approach (pulled plugs/rotated engine) but only did 180 degrees this morning before work (at 7am). I will try the remaining 180 degrees tonight after I pick up some PB, Kroil or WD 40. I thank everyone for your help with this. And will report back either late tonight or first thing tomorrow am.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Camp Verde AZ
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 946
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From: McMinnville Oregon
Ok I'll dive in. You have the plugs out, put the transmission in 3rd or 4th gear, open the drivers door, step inside and lean against the door to reach the distributor, if you can't reach it use your pry device. Now bump the car back and forth and wiggle the distributor at the same time. If it comes up 1/2" it's not sludge. You might be able to get it passed the spot that is restricting it. It should twist about 1/2" and then pull straight up. Good luck.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 14,984
Likes: 185
From: CT
Without re-reading all the posts, if the body can be turned such as when you advance or retard, then that is not what is prevented the distributor from being removed. If it can be lifted slightly from the cam, but no further then it is most likely as some suggested either the roll pin backing out slightly, or something else has become lodged. I don;t think sludge build up would be that hard to break loose.
Has OP stated if body of distributor can be rotated or not?
Has OP stated if body of distributor can be rotated or not?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,214
Likes: 447
From: NJ Hockey beer league
At this point, the smart play would be to resolve yourself to dropping the
oil pan and pulling the oil pump to get a visual on what is going on. With the car on jack stands or ramps it is really not a big job. There is a good chance you could see what the problem is and get the distributor out without damaging the camshaft gear. Do yourself a favor and deal with this when you can take the time to avoid damaging the engine. You will also be able to give the pan a good cleaning and get all the crap out.
oil pan and pulling the oil pump to get a visual on what is going on. With the car on jack stands or ramps it is really not a big job. There is a good chance you could see what the problem is and get the distributor out without damaging the camshaft gear. Do yourself a favor and deal with this when you can take the time to avoid damaging the engine. You will also be able to give the pan a good cleaning and get all the crap out.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 14,370
Likes: 6,361
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
I'll mock up a cam and distributor interface tonight and see if a partially extended roll pin will cause the described problem. I can then also see if there is any rotational position that will allow the pin to not hit the cam during distributor removal.
If the pin is, in fact, hitting the cam gear, you don't want to apply too much prying force to the distributor, as the steel roll pin, jammed against a cast iron cam tooth, will break the tooth off the cam.
The problem is, after removing the oil pump, that the crankshaft counterweight is in the way, and the hole going through the block for the oil pump drive shaft is small enough that you'll never get a good visual on the distributor gear - if you could see anything at all, you wouldn't be able to do anything about it from the bottom of an assembled engine.
Lars
If the pin is, in fact, hitting the cam gear, you don't want to apply too much prying force to the distributor, as the steel roll pin, jammed against a cast iron cam tooth, will break the tooth off the cam.
Lars
Last edited by lars; Feb 1, 2017 at 01:39 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,214
Likes: 447
From: NJ Hockey beer league
I'll mock up a cam and distributor interface tonight and see if a partially extended roll pin will cause the described problem. I can then also see if there is any rotational position that will allow the pin to not hit the cam during distributor removal.
If the pin is, in fact, hitting the cam gear, you don't want to apply too much prying force to the distributor, as the steel roll pin, jammed against a cast iron cam tooth, will break the tooth off the cam.
The problem is, after removing the oil pump, that the crankshaft counterweight is in the way, and the hole going through the block for the oil pump drive shaft is small enough that you'll never get a good visual on the distributor gear - if you could see anything at all, you wouldn't be able to do anything about it from the bottom of an assembled engine.
Lars
If the pin is, in fact, hitting the cam gear, you don't want to apply too much prying force to the distributor, as the steel roll pin, jammed against a cast iron cam tooth, will break the tooth off the cam.
The problem is, after removing the oil pump, that the crankshaft counterweight is in the way, and the hole going through the block for the oil pump drive shaft is small enough that you'll never get a good visual on the distributor gear - if you could see anything at all, you wouldn't be able to do anything about it from the bottom of an assembled engine.
Lars
Was thinking with the oil pump shaft removed a small borescope could fit and you could see what is going on and possibly position the engine optimally to remove the distributor. This should be interesting.