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Wow! What a difference a rotating balance makes! This rotating assembly, prior to being balanced, was almost 600 lbs out of balance at 8000 rpm, compared to only 4 lbs after!
Determined my optimized pushrod length and got them ordered. With my 640 lbs/in 8000 rpm 0.8 lift springs, I opted for a bigger wall thickness of 0.120, instead of the stock 0.08.https://www.summitracing.com/parts/man-25232-16
Ok, the results of the piston to valve clearance final test are in, and it's good news! 0.122 on intake and considerably more than that on exhaust. Got my pushrods in today with the correct length, put playdough in the piston valve reliefs, partially bolted down one of the heads with head gasket and rocker assembly set for 0 lash, and cranked the engine over by hand a couple of turns. Wow, what a relief! Now I can finish putting it together.
Well, got the first head torqued down to the ARP recommended 80 ft-lb, bolted in the shaft rockers with sealer in the holes to keep the oil from flowing into the cylinders, and adjusted the valves. Pretty tough turning that engine over with those 640 lb/in springs.
Well, got the first head torqued down to the ARP recommended 80 ft-lb, bolted in the shaft rockers with sealer in the holes to keep the oil from flowing into the cylinders, and adjusted the valves. Pretty tough turning that engine over with those 640 lb/in springs.
Looking good!
Are those CNC ported? Look like monster ports. 1206 gaskets and, say 220 ports?
Last edited by 65tripleblack; Oct 23, 2017 at 02:59 PM.
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Wow! That's a awesome looking piece now. Good you checked P/V clearance with that monster cam. I'm interested in how long those valve springs live with that much lift. Don't know anyone using that much lift and spring on a street motor so I'm curious. Please keep us informed.
Wow! That's a awesome looking piece now. Good you checked P/V clearance with that monster cam. I'm interested in how long those valve springs live with that much lift. Don't know anyone using that much lift and spring on a street motor so I'm curious. Please keep us informed.
Yes, it will be interesting how well it holds together with my driving habits. I'll have to check valve lash regularly and listen carefully for any new noises, which will alert me if any potential problems have arisen, such as in the 50 mm roller cam bearings, springs, roller lifters, etc. I will definitely keep you guys posted on what I find over time.
Last edited by bdhulderman; Oct 24, 2017 at 01:20 PM.
Yes, it will be interesting how well it holds together with my driving habits. I'll have to check valve lash regularly and listen carefully for any new noises, which will alert me if any potential problems have arisen, such as in the 50 mm roller cam bearings, springs, roller lifters, etc. I will definitely keep you guys posted on what I find over time.
You won't have to check lash but you will have to check for roller disintegration. I'm sure you'll install a rev kit to keep those lifters in constant contact with the lobes.
I notice that AFR offers many heads with spread port middle exhaust ports which would make it easier to fit 2" or larger primary tube headers which I assume you'll be using. Any reason you didn't go with the spread ports?
Last edited by 65tripleblack; Oct 24, 2017 at 02:42 PM.
You won't have to check lash but you will have to check for roller disintegration. I'm sure you'll install a rev kit to keep those lifters in constant contact with the lobes.
I notice that AFR offers many heads with spread port middle exhaust ports which would make it easier to fit 2" or larger primary tube headers which I assume you'll be using. Any reason you didn't go with the spread ports?
3 things: Checking lash WILL alert me if there is "roller disintegration", also the heads were upgraded at AFR for 8000 rpm springs and .8 lift as I've said before, so no float. Just going with my 1 7/8" hooker headers into 4" collector side pipes, which will work fine with 312 duration exhaust valves with .79 lift. I'm not about to spend another 2k on larger primary tube header setup.
Will you be using racing oil , or street ? Redline, Royal Purple, ...?
Good question! I'm going to have to do a little research on that. I know I'll need higher zinc for break-in, but I'm open to suggestions on particular brands, with so many to choose from now. I've had good luck once break-in occurred switching to Mobil 1 fully synthetic. I liked the looks of the parts when I tore it apart this last time.
Good question! I'm going to have to do a little research on that. I know I'll need higher zinc for break-in, but I'm open to suggestions on particular brands, with so many to choose from now. I've had good luck once break-in occurred switching to Mobil 1 fully synthetic. I liked the looks of the parts when I tore it apart this last time.
You are full roller (cam) no need for a zinc rich oil like you would need for a flat tappet cam application. The more important thing is what weight to use. The weight of the oil is governed by your oil clearances in the motor, i.e. rod and main bearing clearances. My motors are tight and I use 10W30 oils. Lighter oil takes less power to turn. Also how much oil to use is also free hp. On my Nova I run a 7 qt pan and large filter that holds 3/4 qt of oil thus technically I could run 7.75 qts of oil. I only use 6 qts total or almost 2 qts low. On the 496 BBC on the vette I only run 1 qt low but I have a larger Moroso pan not a stock pan just to be clear. Less oil = less windage = more power. It all adds up. With your motor windage is something that can be an issue with all that stroke flying around in a very small space. Even with my big wheelies I have never had any oiling problems and I turn the motor on the Nova to 89-9000 rpm per my playback data quite often.
Keep us posted if you engine dyno this motor. I'm interested in the how fast or slow the hp tails off at higher rpm with this combination. I don't care what the desktop dyno says I'm only interested in the real world test cell dyno values.
Yes, I will definitely do a chassis dyno when I get it in and tuned. I'm quite curious myself how close the desktop dyno I created is to actual performance! It's already been validated using LS-7 and LS-9 engines, one more certainly can't hurt. Oh, and I'm thinking I'll go with AMSOIL for ring sealing at least.https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...-oil-(sae-30)/
I personally see no benefit to break in oils on a roller motor. I have been breaking in my race motors with regular oils and never any issues. No need for any fancy procedure for breakin either. I do all my engines like this and never a problem.
1. Run for 20 minutes to get everything up to temp.
2. Check lash if solid lifter
3. Make full 3 runs on the engine dyno.
4. Start to tune make another 10-12 dyno pulls tuning
5/ Change oil
6. Put engine in car.
7. Beat the crap out of it.
If you don't dyno the engine substitute steps 3&4 with hard runs on the highway on ramps where you can let it all hang out.
With the good modern piston rings out there today, if they aren't seated by the 3rd or 4th hard engine pull they will never seal.
Good you checked P/V clearance with that monster cam. I'm interested in how long those valve springs live with that much lift. Don't know anyone using that much lift and spring on a street motor so I'm curious. Please keep us informed.
