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You know, now that I think of it, now that I have a truck to haul the engine, I may just take your advice and run it down to get it tuned and broke-in before putting it in. Then I will have a good baseline on net torque to go by, instead of trying to estimate my driveline losses. Thanks for the help.
Will it run on 91. I am also very interested in real dyno numbers
It should, static compression ratio is only 10.1:1 and with the duration I have on intake and exhaust, the dynamic compression ratio is much better. That's the primary reason I'm doing this, is to save money on fuel, because it was nearly 12:1.
no need for any long break in or special sauce...if you dont dyno it "seat the rings", put about 50 mi on it not hard not babying it either
Dump the oil and let her rip thats it
good to see you wen to the trouble of a good balance job...any "balanced assy" inc clutch and FW still gets taken into the balance shop. It makes a noticeable difference your bearings will thank you for it!
no need for any long break in or special sauce...if you dont dyno it "seat the rings", put about 50 mi on it not hard not babying it either
Dump the oil and let her rip thats it
good to see you wen to the trouble of a good balance job...any "balanced assy" inc clutch and FW still gets taken into the balance shop. It makes a noticeable difference your bearings will thank you for it!
I'm sorry, don't understand some of your response. "if you don't dyno it "seat the rings"" ??
Broke down and went with the AFR port matched TXR intake manifold, rather than trying to port match my old Performance Products Super Hurricane. This Titon manifold is about an inch shorter with better performance! Had a little issue with hood clearance on the other.
Got some more bling on it today, protorque starter and wire looms. Got an appointment next month to throw it in the truck and take it down to get it dyno tested. Can't wait!
Great looking engine! Can I ask why you chose an electric water pump.
I have seen these used in drag racing for years to free up horsepower but I was not aware they were being used on street cars.
Great looking engine! Can I ask why you chose an electric water pump.
I have seen these used in drag racing for years to free up horsepower but I was not aware they were being used on street cars.
Yes, the dart iron eagle block with Siamese bores tend to run warmer than other blocks, and I noticed this in city traffic here in Tucson in 100+ heat, but not on the highway. As soon as I put in the electric pump, there was noticeable improvement in temperature in the city. This electric pump runs at 2500 rpm all the time, so gets me to normal operating temperature when my car needs it, in the city.
Got the 10mm wires today with just 150 ohms/ft of resistance from Performance Distributors to match the distributor from them coming Wednesday. I'll be interested in whether they put the advance curve I requested, or something else in the distributor when I get it.
BD, I use a Davis DUI in my' 71, along with their plug cables. Mine's a tach drive and I had them make plug cables to a specified length (for under header routing). It really neatened up things at the dist, dealing with the cable crossing by routing the cables and committing the crossing under the dist.
I also specified the advance curve. They sent a paper with all the dist. specs on it. The dist. is also numbered, and you can use the number when you contact them and they can pull up the numbers on your dist. Makes it easy if you need some help from them. Great distributors, great guys at the shop.
Take a little goof-off and a shop rag and you can wipe the LIveWires logos off the boots at the dist. end of the cables.
I don't like labels on stuff. I also ground off all the Edelbrock label mess from my RPM intake. Looks lots better, more stock-ish. Except for the Air gap...
Modern moly rings on a good plateau hone cylinder finish are fully seated by the end of the first dyno pull. They are far better than the rings available in the old days.
The moly is 7 or 8 generations better than the stuff used in the 80's.
Modern moly rings on a good plateau hone cylinder finish are fully seated by the end of the first dyno pull. They are far better than the rings available in the old days.
The moly is 7 or 8 generations better than the stuff used in the 80's.
I think I'll hang onto that, may try to fit it in the wife's '71 when I get around to rebuilding/upgrading that motor. I have about everything I need to make a 410 small block with my old 4.0 crank. Also have my .555 lift cam that doesn't have very many miles on it, and a 4-bolt main block I've had for quite awhile, and my victor jr. heads that have been ported some. I'll put it together some day soon.
Ok, got everything I need now for the engine to get it dyno tested. Received the alternator bolt today and got it mounted. I had to order it online, since this one horse town didn't have it. I'm hoping I can get in next week to get it tested!
Wow, found an engine build online that's in the ballpark of what I built, only I'll have a little more displacement at 454, 1050 quick fuel carb, higher lift with intake at .747 with .02 lash, and exhaust at .77. Intake duration 268 deg at .05, exhaust at 284 deg. I think that will fix what they talk about needing higher exhaust duration than what they used. They used the same AFR composite intake with 2" spacer, which I'll bring with me at the test. They went with the 245 intake port volume heads, instead of the 235 I went with. Should be interesting!
In preparation for racing my '66 on the drag strip once I get the engine I'm building installed, I've been looking over the NHRA rules to see what mods I need to make to my Sting Ray for as fast as 10.00 sec 1/4 mile. Looks like I need at least 5 point roll bar, 5 point harness, instead of 3, driveshaft safety loop, steel braided line for fuel to carb, SFI Jacket. Found the roll bar for my car:
Had a little scare yesterday when I looked at my new Performance Distributor's distributor I mounted in and saw "Street/Strip" when I paid for "Race". I bought the race because it said it was good for 10000 rpm. The "Street/Strip" is only good to 7000. I called Performance Distributors today and they told me to look at the coil in the cap to see if it has an "M" in the number. It does! What a relief! That means they put the wrong sticker on the top is all, and they are shipping me the right one.
What fun would that be buying a ready made engine. You're obviously not an engineer. 
