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Back to that again! What fun would that be buying a ready made engine. You're obviously not an engineer.
Like I said before, you get what you pay for!
It's the smart way to go. A friend has a 572 crate motor with very modest tweeking that puts out over 700 hp and is streetable. Put the money saved into beefing up the trans, rear end and suspension
It's the smart way to go. A friend has a 572 crate motor with very modest tweeking that puts out over 700 hp and is streetable. Put the money saved into beefing up the trans, rear end and suspension
Ok, I see where you're coming from, but my intention was to build a "small block" not a "big block". I would never think of putting more weight than is necessary in a sports car. I think I even mentioned here before that the other option was going with an all aluminum big block, which would have been about the same as my build. The fun of building a monster small block outweighs the savings and hassle of putting in a big block anyway. I can't wait to put my 454 emblems on the side of my hood scoop and have them look inside and shake their heads. Oh, and fortunately, I've already beefed up my trans, rear end and suspension.
Last edited by bdhulderman; 11-21-2017 at 12:21 PM.
Ordered my new numbers for the beast today on ebay. Can't wait to take it to a show and have people look at the engine and shake their heads. Got my dyno test setup for Dec 8th.
Got my power results on the 454 normally aspirated SBC. He used a Go Power System's Engine Dynamometer.
This is the uncorrected Tucson measurement at 2400 feet altitude of 699.16 HP @ 7200 RPM (510 ft-lb). And I didn't even use my 1" spacer I brought, or deviated from the initial 22 deg timing, or AFR jet setting.
That is an interesting dyno printout. TQ is low from what I would have expected for this long stroke engine. It made decent power, however the correction factors are so far out in left field it isn't even funny. You might have been at 2400' but your barometric pressure is higher than the standard base correction factors start.
What was the ARF and what changes were made from the baseline to make the highest power pull? Timing, jetting etc.
Here you can play with these correction factor calculators so you can see what I am talking about.
That is an interesting dyno printout. TQ is low from what I would have expected for this long stroke engine. It made decent power, however the correction factors are so far out in left field it isn't even funny. You might have been at 2400' but your barometric pressure is higher than the standard base correction factors start.
What was the ARF and what changes were made from the baseline to make the highest power pull? Timing, jetting etc.
Here you can play with these correction factor calculators so you can see what I am talking about.
Yeah, forget the correction factor, that looked funny to me too after researching it. I think he just checked the altitude difference and came up with a number. The dyno is a Go Power System's dyno. It doesn't actually print out a torque vs. rpm, so after several pulls, he homed in on the max power at certain rpm and torque and calculated it by hand. Actually, a simple calculation. I know the torque was higher than 500 at 5300 rpm, but he probably didn't read the guage at that rpm. Anyway, pretty confident that he got the torque at the max power rpm. Like I said, no correction was made to timing, AFR, or carb spacers from my base setting, so more power was certainly achievable if fine tuning would have been done. It's good enough for me at this point. When I get the beast in the car I'll do a chassis dyno on it to get the actual figures through rpm and do some additional tuning. The real intention of this event was to get a baseline figure and break-in the engine. No leaks, drips, or errors!
Last edited by bdhulderman; 12-09-2017 at 02:30 PM.
Finally got the rest of my engine hoist late yesterday, and made good progress mounting the engine in the bay today. Hoist had just the right amount of lift and reach to pop it in and got the motor mounts bolted in, and new flywheel and clutch mounted. Still have a whole lot more work to do.
Last edited by bdhulderman; 01-04-2018 at 08:36 PM.
First startup in car of new normally aspirated small block on pump gas, dyno tested at 700 Hp @ 7200 rpm.
I still have to hook up the hydratech braking system and fill my power steering pump. I also have an issue with my accessory wire used for the relay to give voltage to my distributor. I had to bypass that and the car then fired right up. I'll find out what is wrong with that wire tomorrow. Oil pressure went right to 50 psi, which was a good sign when cold, and no leaks of oil, water, or fuel, so overall a very good afternoon!
David Vizard ( RIP also ) has a couple of great books on building big inch ( 496 ) big blocks. I'm shooting for a little over 500hp which should be easy to make with a bb and keep it reliable and on pump gas.
I was going to be a naysayer and say that an awful lot of 100 octane fuel could be bought for 19k.....then I saw (and heard) the results. VERY impressive, and green with envy over here!
Ok, got the accessory wire for distributor relay fixed, cleaned up all the wires, and primed the power steering and Hydratech braking system. Man those brakes are going to be great! Still no leaks!
David Vizard ( RIP also ) has a couple of great books on building big inch ( 496 ) big blocks. I'm shooting for a little over 500hp which should be easy to make with a bb and keep it reliable and on pump gas.
11-20-2017, 10:38 PM
What fun would that be buying a ready made engine. You're obviously not an engineer. 
Oh, and fortunately, I've already beefed up my trans, rear end and suspension.
Got my dyno test setup for Dec 8th.
