Yes, you did. And I thought it was acting like it was having a problem, and it has had its problems in the past. I fixed it once, I'm sure I will again.

I don't know enough about the rear suspension to do a good list of probable causes. Pictures of the rear end would help. What does the spring look like?

I'm glad you got some real world value out of our short session in my garage!

 

Unfortunately I did not take pictures because I was under the impression that I will take it home last night. Come to think of it...I forgot to do a few things...I guess the 4hr drive and 1hr of figuring out why the car wouldn't start - (more on this later), I was too tired and things I wanted to do completely slipped my mind. For example, I always take the door sills off and look down on the frame - completely forgot to do it. This would have given me a better idea of what to expect under the paint. I even forgot to take it back up on the lift after the test drive to check for additional oil leaks. I'm kicking myself in the @SS for that but it was a looooong day.

*Now about the car not starting....the owner couldn't start it. The lights were working, the horn was working....it couldn't have been the battery right??? Wrong....1hr later he decided to charge up the battery and what do you now, it started. I thought it was a little strange that the interior lights were bright and horn sounded strong yet car wouldn't start. In my DD when the battery is dead i know as soon as I turn the key and see dim and flickering lights...I guess thats not the case in these vettes.

 

if the battery is dead or low, then when starting by turning the key to cranking position the starter draws the greatest amount of amps, and the lights should actualy dim significantly or even go out. if the lights do not change, then the starter is not drawing the current and there is another problem.

 

I am starting to understand the relatively low asking price. You were OK with buying a project, and this car is starting to sound like one.

 

You are absolutely right...I wasn't clear about it. When turned to the cranking position, yes it was dimming.

In my DD even before its turned to the cranking position, the dome light is dim and horn sounds very weak when the batterly is drained. What I found interesting is that this vette didnt have enough power to start but had enough power to run the dome light bright and had a regular loud horn.

 

Rent a UHaul trailer and bring it home if you're happy with the overall deal. I dragged mine home from GA with my SUV.
Ask the owner to find you a UHaul location near him and you can see if they have any trailers on their lot. Drive there, hook it up, pick up the car and drive home. You can drop off the trailer at any UHaul lot around your home. You can even haggle with price on the trailer. I got mine for $50 b/c they had more demand for the trailer up in Jersey.

With regards to the flakes inside the frame you should be fine as long as you don't have that hollow sound. I took a hammer and really pounded the frame in the problematic areas to listen to the sound. Poked it good with a screwdriver like you. Every frame is gong to have some rust inside.

The rear could be b/c of the spring or an accident which could have lead to the restoration! Did you ask for a carfax???

These vette ladder frames get weird when in an accident. Usually one front side sits higher and the opposite rear side sits lower b/c the frame is a little tweeked. Get it back up on that lift and take "X" measurements to make sure the frame is square.

 

After doing some more research I actually found a lot of c3 owners mentioning the lean to the left. Looks like its a "normal" occurrence for these cars especially with 40yr old suspensions. Hopefully it doesn't need more than just a new spring. (But I will definitely do the "X" measurement before money exchanges hands)

I'm hoping to find a car carrier and truck rental by this weekend and hopefully have this car in my garage Sunday ...... unless I find something I like better in 3 days

 

I have heard this too, maybe I'll put a level on my rear bumpers and see what it says.

When I bought my car, I noticed that the left front fender overhangs the tire about 1/2" than the right front fender. I assumed this was likely because it had had some front end damage, and had one, the other, or both fenders replaced. Many people have said "maybe, but it could also have come that way from the factory with the body not perfectly straight on the frame." Sometimes we need to remember that these cars were built before the implementation of lasers to align different components.

 

Back from the garage. First, I checked the garage floor, it was about a quarter bubble off level, low on the left. Then, I tested the rear deck, and rear bumpers. That tested about 2/3 of a bubble low on the left, so I think the body is sitting a tiny bit low on the left, but not enough to see visually.

Then, I thought about it for a second. If the car was up on a lift, the independent rear suspension will not go back to its natural position until the car is driven. Depending when you had the car up on the lift relative to when it looked a little off-kilter, it may be nothing.

 

Do you know anyone with a mid/full size SUV or truck with a toe hitch? Borrow them for the day and rent a Uhaul trailer. MUCH cheaper than a car carrier service. Talk to Jay about his research into the cost of transportation for the Power Tour. Not that you're driving that far but even the short distance isn't cheap. That money could be spent on the vette!!! Good luck!

 

Oh believe me...I spent the whole day today researching my options.

If I get a truck and trailer both from Uhaul, it will cost me about $600-$700 plus gas. They charge $2 per mile.

I was hoping to get a truck from Enterprise or Budget but after some research I found out they don't want people to use their cars to tow ... and so they dont have a hitch. This woulda been the cheaper option plus a car trailer from Uhaul (around $240 total plus gas)

Best would be to borrow someone's truck like you said, unfortunately nobody I know has a truck...go figure...you never need one until you need one...

 

If i still had my trailblazer and I wasn't expecting my first born this saturday I'd help you out.
Nothing like looking in your rearview mirror to see your new baby following you home. Guess we'll both be experiencing that feeling this weekend one way or another.

 

Oh man, first born.... getting much sleep?

 

No sleep now and even less sleep once the kid is born...any day now.

 

ok.. read through from the beginning.. funny thing was I was ready to post an opinion and then read about the 2nd visit etc. After everything I read, my opinion stayed the same.

1. Very nice car. $16k is not unreasonable.

2. Very clean -- and the "issues" you've raised are not unusual.
Wiper door... shock/suspension... a dirty carb a little rust on the
radiator support. A wrong screw here or there... all normal and to
be expected.

3. Not sure how long your drive is.. but quite frankly, I'd bring a bottle
of Techron.. dump it in the tank... spray some gum out in the carb
and drive her home. By the time you get back, either carb will run
like new.. or you need it tuned or rebuilt.

Dude.. if the car can't be driven 4 hours.. then I wouldn't buy it.

Bought mine outside of CLEVELAND and drove it back to PHILADELPHIA .. about 6.5 hours. Flew there and had the owner pick me and my son up at airport. By the time we got home.. I knew EVERYTHING that need to be refilled, replaced, or fixed.

DO it .. Do it.. Do it Do it.. !!!!

 

He's got a point. Bring some tools, fix-a-flat, carb cleaner, rain-x in your daily driver. Drive out there with a friend. You drive the vette home and have your friend follow you in the chase vehicle. Thats the cheapest way to get the car home and Scott is right, you will know the car very well after 4hrs. Have a phone number of a tow service handy just in case. I would only go this route if you were confident in its road worthiness after a test drive.

 

What else?

Preston 50/50? (or a different type coolant?)

Bottle of Oil? I'll check with the seller what oil he's been putting in but what do you guys recommend?

 

I also HIGHLY RECOMMEND that you join AAA Motor Club at least 7 days prior to that trip so you can leverage the free towing... all kidding aside, I had both a AAA membership and the towing with Haggerty in my back pocket. Worst case.. net/net.. radiator hose goes... belt goes... or bad alternator. During that trip, I stopped at every rest stop and topped off the tank. Some simple but effective tips:

Never turned the car off during that trip back. Never. Kept it running.
Don't exceed 55.
Wear your seatbelt.
Start early so you don't have to drive at night.
Map out the rest stops and Chevy dealers
That 4 hour trip is effectively 4 quarters. By the time you get 2 hours in at halftime, you will be on your way. I remember being :45 minutes out from home bringing the car back -- and at that point, there was NOTHING that could stop me.

You will remember that 4 hour trip for the rest of your life. Wait till you get the Adrenaline rush of driving your car back -- not knowing if it's gonna crap out. Now .. that's fun !

 

Question to all you PA guys.... is there a way (and should I) to get a temporary plate in PA for the ride back to NJ? Or should I just slap a NJ plate on there just so I have "something"? I read PA used to give temp plates but not anymore?

 

What I did when I bought my car in OH and I live in PA is that once we struck the deal (which we had already agreed up on a price so I had a certified check with me), we drove to the local DMV office with the title.
Once there, I gave him the check, he signed over the title. The NOTARY in the DMV office stamped it. I also brought two original bills of sale that specified the VIN, date, etc. We both signed both and he kept 1 original and so did I. I paid the State their nominal fee and got a temporary registration plate. I called my insurance company who basically said -- you have 30 days to officially call us. At that point, it's 100% legal.

When I got home, I made photocopies of the front & back of my title (color) and then submitted it for a PA title -- together with the registration for a PA vehicle and paid the sales tax ..(tip... what get's written on the title and the bill of sale IS THE VALUE you will pay tax on.. "whatever" THAT number might be )

You do not want to a) get pulled over with an unregistered vehicle or b) one with the wrong tags or C) a&b and be involved in an accident or breakdown. Trust me.. you don't want to remember this trip having your car towed for lack of registration or suspicion of theft etc.

There is only 1 way to do this and that is to follow the laws to protect you and the car... Plus having that paperwork trail creates new documentation & history for this car which the next buyer will appreciate seeing State registered proof of history. It all adds to the patina so to speak. Yeah.. you might spend an extra hundred bucks.. but it's just the cost of the hobby. done

oh.. almost forgot. Your amp gauge staying slightly to the right of zero is a good thing. It's putting out the right amps. If it was slightly to the left or way right, you'd have an issue.