Numbers location & retrieval
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 969
Likes: 1
From: NJ
What I did when I bought my car in OH and I live in PA is that once we struck the deal (which we had already agreed up on a price so I had a certified check with me), we drove to the local DMV office with the title.
Once there, I gave him the check, he signed over the title. The NOTARY in the DMV office stamped it. I also brought two original bills of sale that specified the VIN, date, etc. We both signed both and he kept 1 original and so did I. I paid the State their nominal fee and got a temporary registration plate. I called my insurance company who basically said -- you have 30 days to officially call us. At that point, it's 100% legal.
When I got home, I made photocopies of the front & back of my title (color) and then submitted it for a PA title -- together with the registration for a PA vehicle and paid the sales tax ..(tip... what get's written on the title and the bill of sale IS THE VALUE you will pay tax on.. "whatever" THAT number might be
)
You do not want to a) get pulled over with an unregistered vehicle or b) one with the wrong tags or C) a&b and be involved in an accident or breakdown. Trust me.. you don't want to remember this trip having your car towed for lack of registration or suspicion of theft etc.
There is only 1 way to do this and that is to follow the laws to protect you and the car... Plus having that paperwork trail creates new documentation & history for this car which the next buyer will appreciate seeing State registered proof of history. It all adds to the patina so to speak. Yeah.. you might spend an extra hundred bucks.. but it's just the cost of the hobby. done
oh.. almost forgot. Your amp gauge staying slightly to the right of zero is a good thing. It's putting out the right amps. If it was slightly to the left or way right, you'd have an issue.
Once there, I gave him the check, he signed over the title. The NOTARY in the DMV office stamped it. I also brought two original bills of sale that specified the VIN, date, etc. We both signed both and he kept 1 original and so did I. I paid the State their nominal fee and got a temporary registration plate. I called my insurance company who basically said -- you have 30 days to officially call us. At that point, it's 100% legal.
When I got home, I made photocopies of the front & back of my title (color) and then submitted it for a PA title -- together with the registration for a PA vehicle and paid the sales tax ..(tip... what get's written on the title and the bill of sale IS THE VALUE you will pay tax on.. "whatever" THAT number might be
)You do not want to a) get pulled over with an unregistered vehicle or b) one with the wrong tags or C) a&b and be involved in an accident or breakdown. Trust me.. you don't want to remember this trip having your car towed for lack of registration or suspicion of theft etc.
There is only 1 way to do this and that is to follow the laws to protect you and the car... Plus having that paperwork trail creates new documentation & history for this car which the next buyer will appreciate seeing State registered proof of history. It all adds to the patina so to speak. Yeah.. you might spend an extra hundred bucks.. but it's just the cost of the hobby. done
oh.. almost forgot. Your amp gauge staying slightly to the right of zero is a good thing. It's putting out the right amps. If it was slightly to the left or way right, you'd have an issue.
----EDIT--- problem solved. Just spoke to the seller, his family member works at the regional AAA office and I can get temp playes. Now I'm leaning towards driving her back home and getting to know her for 3.5hrs
Last edited by rafalc; Sep 14, 2011 at 01:24 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 810
Likes: 48
From: West Chester Pennsylvania
From what I understand resulting from looking things up online...PA does not offer temp plates anymore....so I'm stuck taking the risk. I spoke to a NY state trooper and he said that as long as I have proof of insurance and the title to the car specifying that I JUST bought it, they usually let you go. But I guess that depends on the cop too..
----EDIT--- problem solved. Just spoke to the seller, his family member works at the regional AAA office and I can get temp playes. Now I'm leaning towards driving her back home and getting to know her for 3.5hrs
----EDIT--- problem solved. Just spoke to the seller, his family member works at the regional AAA office and I can get temp playes. Now I'm leaning towards driving her back home and getting to know her for 3.5hrs
Please post the result(s) of the trip!!.. and a few pictures would be great.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 969
Likes: 1
From: NJ
EXACTLY ! I was just going to tell you that you need "in transit" tags. You can get those from an authorized AAA service center or what they call an "auto tag" location in PA. Sounds like you're on your way. Glad all the advice helped solve the issue and get you on your way.
Please post the result(s) of the trip!!.. and a few pictures would be great.
Please post the result(s) of the trip!!.. and a few pictures would be great.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,028
Likes: 2
From: North NJ
Preston 50/50 mix is a good idea.
Quart of oil.
Jumper cables
tools (adjustable wrench, screwdrivers, needlenose pliers, full roll of duct tape (sad but useful in a pinch)
Lug nut wrench & jack.
Quarters (incase you need to put air in your tires)
Flashlight
fully charged cell phone
rabbit foot, sunglasses and some chapstick to help with the huge smile you'll be wearing for 4+ hours.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 284
Likes: 7
From: Springfield New Jersey
It was nice meeting you last night. I think we both learned a few things from John with his C2 survivor. Drive it home and have fun ! I can't wait to see it - let me know if you need anything.
Jay
Jay
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 810
Likes: 48
From: West Chester Pennsylvania
Agreed.
Preston 50/50 mix is a good idea.
Quart of oil.
Jumper cables
tools (adjustable wrench, screwdrivers, needlenose pliers, full roll of duct tape (sad but useful in a pinch)
Lug nut wrench & jack.
Quarters (incase you need to put air in your tires)
Flashlight
fully charged cell phone
rabbit foot, sunglasses and some chapstick to help with the huge smile you'll be wearing for 4+ hours.
Preston 50/50 mix is a good idea.
Quart of oil.
Jumper cables
tools (adjustable wrench, screwdrivers, needlenose pliers, full roll of duct tape (sad but useful in a pinch)
Lug nut wrench & jack.
Quarters (incase you need to put air in your tires)
Flashlight
fully charged cell phone
rabbit foot, sunglasses and some chapstick to help with the huge smile you'll be wearing for 4+ hours.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 969
Likes: 1
From: NJ
What motor oil do you guys recommend for this 350/350? I'll ask the owner about whats in there now but in case he doesn't know or hasn't replaced the oil (since he has only driven it around 300miles)...what should I go with in case I need to fill it during the trip? What type of oil would mix well with other types if i don't know what's in there?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 810
Likes: 48
From: West Chester Pennsylvania
What motor oil do you guys recommend for this 350/350? I'll ask the owner about whats in there now but in case he doesn't know or hasn't replaced the oil (since he has only driven it around 300miles)...what should I go with in case I need to fill it during the trip? What type of oil would mix well with other types if i don't know what's in there?
If it burns/leaks a quart of oil in 4 hours.. that blue smoke vapor trail should be recognizable from the space station. I'd say have the owner make sure the engine oil level is correct and then go for it.
If the car runs.. brakes work ... rubber is good and you got gas in the tank and a good battery connection you should be good to go.. The earlier comments you heard about RainX is in case the windshield wipers don't work... the Rainx will keep the windshield clear.. but if there's no rain.. it's not an issue.
Have fun.. safe travels.
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Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 23,419
Likes: 22
From: In limbo
St. Jude Donor '13-'15, '17 thru '22
How long has the guy owned the car? If he has driven 3000 miles over a couple of years and hasn't changed the oil at all, he isn't much of a car guy. If that is the case, I would see if he would let me change the oil in his garage before I left, so it wouldn't matter what was in it, you put in what you want. If he has changed the oil, he should know what is in it, and likely has an extra quart hanging around somewhere, ask him if you can have it.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 969
Likes: 1
From: NJ
How long has the guy owned the car? If he has driven 3000 miles over a couple of years and hasn't changed the oil at all, he isn't much of a car guy. If that is the case, I would see if he would let me change the oil in his garage before I left, so it wouldn't matter what was in it, you put in what you want. If he has changed the oil, he should know what is in it, and likely has an extra quart hanging around somewhere, ask him if you can have it.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 969
Likes: 1
From: NJ
Seller told me the oil that was/is in the car is 10w40 ... I guess first thing Ill do is an oil/filter change and go 10w30 or would you guys recommend synthetic? (Ive read stuff about synthetic causing leaks in older engines....)
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 23,419
Likes: 22
From: In limbo
St. Jude Donor '13-'15, '17 thru '22
If he has owned it for a few years, and only driven 300 miles, I would still prefer to change it.
70BBConv covered this, but before I had my first 'vette, I'm not sure I would have understood what he said, so without wanting to stomp on his gig, here is some more detail on the wipers.
The wiper motor is electric like on a regular car, but it can be "cut out" for the purpose of changing your wiper blades. When you are sitting in the driver's seat, if you reach down under the dash with your right hand, you will find three "switches". One on each side that is long and skinny and a shorter larger-diameter wheel in the middle. The left one is probably grey, and is a vacuum bypass switch. With the engine running (unless the vacuum system is really tight) pull it towards the floor about a half inch, and the headlights should come up without any bulbs on. The skinny grey one on the right is also a vacuum bypass, and should open the wiper door when pulled without starting the wiper motor. The wheel in the middle is the wiper cut-out. If you want to change your wiper blades, you start the wipers from the switch in the top-center of your dash. When the blades get to a convenient location, you turn that middle wheel clockwise when viewed from below, and the wipers will stop where they are, so you can change the blades.
The point being, if someone turned the wheel when the wipers were parked, you would get the situation you described, the wiper door opens but the wipers don't go. Turning the wheel back should correct this. If it doesn't, there is some sort of electrical problem with the wiper motor.
70BBConv covered this, but before I had my first 'vette, I'm not sure I would have understood what he said, so without wanting to stomp on his gig, here is some more detail on the wipers.
The wiper motor is electric like on a regular car, but it can be "cut out" for the purpose of changing your wiper blades. When you are sitting in the driver's seat, if you reach down under the dash with your right hand, you will find three "switches". One on each side that is long and skinny and a shorter larger-diameter wheel in the middle. The left one is probably grey, and is a vacuum bypass switch. With the engine running (unless the vacuum system is really tight) pull it towards the floor about a half inch, and the headlights should come up without any bulbs on. The skinny grey one on the right is also a vacuum bypass, and should open the wiper door when pulled without starting the wiper motor. The wheel in the middle is the wiper cut-out. If you want to change your wiper blades, you start the wipers from the switch in the top-center of your dash. When the blades get to a convenient location, you turn that middle wheel clockwise when viewed from below, and the wipers will stop where they are, so you can change the blades.
The point being, if someone turned the wheel when the wipers were parked, you would get the situation you described, the wiper door opens but the wipers don't go. Turning the wheel back should correct this. If it doesn't, there is some sort of electrical problem with the wiper motor.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 969
Likes: 1
From: NJ
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 969
Likes: 1
From: NJ
Very nice....take a look below what it currently looks like. Can't even see the switch!!! BTW...the screw right on top of it is fixed right?...so how does it get pressed?
And now the interesting part:
- #1 is a hose that is plugged by a screw....what it this line for?
- #2 goes under the wiper door and just ends without being connected to anything...I assume this is for washer nozzle?
And the same can be seen on the driver's side...#3 is not connected to anything...I assume driver's side washer nozzle?
The AIM is in the mail so I promise I'll limit all the questions
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,189
Likes: 111
From: Tolland CT
The bracket which the screw is attached to should be connected to the shaft on the wiper door linkage. The the wiper door is fully open, the bracket with the screw are pulled in, pushing on the switch. When the switch is closed, the wipers should run. If the door is closed or not fully open, the bracket and screw should not be pressing on the screw, switch button exposed, wiper motor disabled.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 969
Likes: 1
From: NJ
Looks like the PO had vacuum issues. The plugged line probably goes to the vacuum switch in the wiper well, under the passenger side wiper transmission arm. It should be open, not plugged.
Hey...just sounds strange to have a line left open. What would be its function? I hope once I get tha AIM I will be able to see exactly what its for.
Hey...just sounds strange to have a line left open. What would be its function? I hope once I get tha AIM I will be able to see exactly what its for.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,189
Likes: 111
From: Tolland CT
Looks like the PO had vacuum issues. The plugged line probably goes to the vacuum switch in the wiper well, under the passenger side wiper transmission arm. It should be open, not plugged.
Hey...just sounds strange to have a line left open. What would be its function? I hope once I get tha AIM I will be able to see exactly what its for.
Hey...just sounds strange to have a line left open. What would be its function? I hope once I get tha AIM I will be able to see exactly what its for.
I can't tell for sure from your photo whether you have two or three hoses passing through that rubber grommet. Should be three.
It's on page UPC 12 A15 in the 1970 AIM, referred to as VENT HOSE.
Some vendors offer vacuum hose diagrams. Think I've seen at least one on this forum. It may be helpful for you to deBubba the vacuum system.
I am a bit suspicious of what appears to be wires passing through with the windshield squirter hose.
Is there a switch which is actually connected behind that screw you mentioned? I don't see a wire coming off the right hand side in the photo. Could be tucked out of sight? It sounds like the PO may have rigged their own control system....
BTW: I'm working on my wiper door system at this time. All looks rather familiar. My vacuum controls operate OK but some problems with the mechanical side binding a bit, some joints rusted from sitting for a very long time.
Hope this helps...
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 969
Likes: 1
From: NJ
I am a bit suspicious of what appears to be wires passing through with the windshield squirter hose.
Is there a switch which is actually connected behind that screw you mentioned? I don't see a wire coming off the right hand side in the photo. Could be tucked out of sight? It sounds like the PO may have rigged their own control system....
Is there a switch which is actually connected behind that screw you mentioned? I don't see a wire coming off the right hand side in the photo. Could be tucked out of sight? It sounds like the PO may have rigged their own control system....
Also...I took off the wiper door (without taking off the brackets) because the door was a bit misaligned. Well....now I'm having a very hard time screwing it back onto the brackets. I guess I should have taken the door and brackets off as one unit. I got the left and right brackets loose but how the hell do you get the third one off that is right behind the vacuum actuator...I'm guessing? Do I need to take the whole thing off along with the adjusting rod and nut?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,189
Likes: 111
From: Tolland CT
I looked at where these wires are leading to and they are attached to the push switch on top (see picture)
Also...I took off the wiper door (without taking off the brackets) because the door was a bit misaligned. Well....now I'm having a very hard time screwing it back onto the brackets. I guess I should have taken the door and brackets off as one unit. I got the left and right brackets loose but how the hell do you get the third one off that is right behind the vacuum actuator...I'm guessing? Do I need to take the whole thing off along with the adjusting rod and nut?
Also...I took off the wiper door (without taking off the brackets) because the door was a bit misaligned. Well....now I'm having a very hard time screwing it back onto the brackets. I guess I should have taken the door and brackets off as one unit. I got the left and right brackets loose but how the hell do you get the third one off that is right behind the vacuum actuator...I'm guessing? Do I need to take the whole thing off along with the adjusting rod and nut?
I've been working on my wiper door for weeks. To remove the linkage you'll need to disconnect the actuator and remove the two nuts which hold the bracket. There are three points where the linkage are fastened to the firewall, sounds like you found the left and right. You'll need to disconnect the arm which goes to the wiper interlock switch. I've been disconnecting it at the linkage. Another option may be to remove the piece from the engine side of the firewall, the one which presses on the switch, then pull the arm through. I'd opt for the first option since removing the linkage is already a rather clusmy operation.
The actuator adjustment sleeve needs to be removed. One end has right hand threads, the other left.
Another tip, BEWARE of dropping bolts, washers, or tools down into the area to the left and right of the linkage. You may never see them again if they fall down between the fender and cowl. I've lost a few nylon washers, a bolt, and a small socket down there. Some say you can access this area by removing the door from the foot vent and reaching through. When I fished with a magnet I found other artifacts which had been in there for years, possibly dropped at the factory. Never found the bolt or socket.
I found it less risky to install the wiper door on the linkage, then drop the whole assembly in place. Otherwise it's really awkward and there's risk of dropping the pivot bolts down into the black hole..
Last edited by BBCorv70; Oct 7, 2011 at 10:59 AM.