Well, I got good news and bad news... First the bad, which is only bad when talking about my '73 project... I decided earlier this week that I did not want to RUSH this project just to get it into paint before I left for school...

There are a couple of reasons... First, I did not feel comfortable priming, blocking and shooting paint within 7-10 days... I know it happens everyday, but thought it best to not "push it"... This will certainly give all my body work and primer time to dry thoroughly...

Probably the biggest and most important reason to make this decision is I did not want to spend every waking hour the last two weeks in the garage right before I am going to leave for D.C. I want to be able to do some good family time before I leave...

Now for the good news... I primed the doors (all three of them), hood and convertible hatch... They turned out fantastic and very happy with the way the K36 sprayed... Also, extremely happy that all of these panels turned out super straight... I know you can't really tell until you guide coat and block, but looking down each panel looks very, very nice...

Here are some pictures... I had just pulled down the plastic I temporarily stapled up to control the overspray, but really don't think I needed it as I don't remember too much overspray during the spray...

Here's my "mule" door... This is my old driver's door... I put a coat of primer on it, and plan to hang this and paint/clear this door a day prior to the main paint job... This will let me get the gun dialed in and get my timing down...



Here are the rest of the pics:











Still have a little glazing work to do on the body before I shoot her... As always, thanks for looking and commenting...

Rogman

 

Rog, Make sure you use a good respirator when spraying K36. The primer is ok, but the K201 hardener has some nasty stuff in it. I use a hobby air respirator and put the pump in my office so that it gets only clean air.

Evan Q.

 

I think you will look back at your decision to wait on the paint and be very, very happy about it. Family and sanity come first, and this is supposed to be a fun project, not full of stressful deadlines like the 9-5. Car looks great and it must feel amazing to be rounding the bend. The garage looks very nice and clean too which will rank right up there in cool factor with being able to actually drive the car again when I get to that point. Crap everywhere get's old after a while. Keeping the end in sight.... We'll certainly miss your updates, hopefully you can pop in from time to time to help rescue guys like me that need all the help they can get from guys like you.

Take care Rogman!

 

Smart and thoughtful decision Rog! Catch a breath, relax and enjoy "Tass Time" before DC.

 

Evan--

Thanks, yepper that stuff is nasty... I pulled my mask off to clean the gun and that was a mistake... Mask went right back on... Didn't think anything could come close to the harshness of spraying POR15, but the K36 is close... POR is still the king of nasty as the overspray sticks to everything... The Lizard Skin and U-Pol liner is pretty bad as well...

Rogman

Thanks much Greg... I'll still be on the forum trying to learn from all you guys and the projects you are undertaking... I know I'll be home for Thanksgiving and Christmas (probably 2 weeks)... Christmas is looking like my paint window and instead of 115 degree days I'd be fighting now; it'll be trying to warm the garage from probably being in the 40s... Please no flames northern tier states... Thinking I want the fiberglass temp to be at least 60 degrees before I shoot...

Rogman

Thanks Mike...

Rogman

 

Very wise decision IMO Roger. The car will be sitting there when you get back and to be honest, I think it's a wise idea to let fiberglass work sit for a longer period then most allow. Let it settle before you start shooting color.

The bodywork is really looking good bud - very, very nice. Going to be an amazing car when you get it all put back together!

Adam

 

Well said my friend......besides, it's a hobby, not a job. Gonna be lots of time when you get back - weather will probably me a lot more favourable. In the meantime, quality time with that lovely lady; and showing appreciation for all her hard work is what's called for. I think I speak for us all when I say we're jealous of you, not only for that beautiful machine your building, but for a truly wonderful woman in your life that takes the time to be part of your passion......that's the real prize. I know we'll hear from you before you leave, but safe travels, study hard,,,,,and try to get some pictures of DC......I've never been!!!!!

All the best

B

 

Thanks Adam... I'm ready for a little break to get re-energized, but really not digging a 4-5 month break...

Rogman

Thanks much Brian... Believe it or not, but I've never been to D.C. either... 27 and a half years in the Air Force and this is my first trip... Kind of anxious to see the sights... Tass is a trooper... She asked if she can prep the door jambs today for the primer shoot...

Rogman

 

Rog-

You have remarkable patience and a good sense of balancing "life" and hobby . . I know your wife and her mother have been extremely helpful on your project- most guys aren't that lucky.

I also think you're wise to pace yourself and create some family time before heading off to school.

As always, thank you for your service and thanks for your posts. It's a motivation for all of us.

Safe travel--

Rollie

 

Thanks Rollie... Really appreciate your comments...

Rogman

 

Rog, I had glanced over this way a couple times looking for your thread and it seemed to have gotten buried, but it looks like you're back at it. IMO you're really taking the wiser course here, and when you get back to Vegas you'll be energized and ready to go back to work. Once you've got the base and clear shot the assembly should go pretty quickly; and the important thing is that you've dotted all the I's and crossed all the T's so far- you're really doing a thorough job.

I recently purchased my primer and if the weather holds (Low 90s) I should at least get some of the details primed in a couple weeks. All I'm down to now is a final sanding to put a 'tooth' on the bare 'glass and to put the seam sealer on the door hinges and I can go to it. As far as doing the base and clear I think I may wait until the heat breaks, say, late Sept.- early Oct. When I get some pics that show some more progress I'll get them posted.

As per usual, great looking work!

 

The car is coming along great

I wonder if i should use the exhaust wrap on the 2,5 inch exhaust pipes that goes from the headers to the beginning of the exhaust pipes on my C2 coupe?

 

Thanks Dave, look forward to seeing you're baby in primer... Which primer are you going to shoot...

Rogman

Roger--

Thanks much... Just trying to keep as much heat away from the cabin... Don't know if is going to help or not, but thought what the heck as it was easy to do with the body off...

Rogman

 

HI
i'm thinking of putting C5/6 seats in my "74". I see it can be done. Did they fit on existing rails? What modifications were required to install the seats? I'll assume you also hooked up power for them. Once installed did you have to tilt your head to drive it>>>


appreciate your help>> Len

Your ride looks great

 

Len--

Thanks much... I haven't completely tackled the seats yet... I did make a template of the original seats to see how much of a bracket I would had to fabricate... Doesn't look like it will be that difficult, but there will be some fabrication going on to make them fit... There are a couple of good threads of guys that have done the swap with C5 seats and the brackets they had to make...

I plan on using the factory '73 sliders, no power...

Rogman

 

Roger, to answer your question, I'm using a red-oxide colored polyprimer (I'll get the name on the can for you when I get home) but I have used it before with good results. I went with the red because that's what the factory primer color was...

Just curious- how much 'tooth' did you put on yours before primer application? I'm thinking about 120-180 grit myself. I know we've already been down this road but I just wanted to see the direction you settled on...

 

Dave--

Initially I hit the bare fiberglass with 80 grit with light pressure... Did body work and skim coat of Metal Glaze over entire body... Finished the Metal Glaze off with 220 dry... After a panel was complete, blocked the entire panel with 220 wet... Then shot the K36...


I blocked the convertible hatch with 320 wet last night after two wet coats of K36... Had a few fiberglass fibers lift to the surface after primer so needed to re-shoot a couple of coats... The K36 sands/blocks really nice and that panel looks fantastic (and it was the worst looking panel of the first primer shoot... Will rehit this panel when I shoot the car (either tonight or tomorrow)...

So to finally answer your question, the last sanding grit for my body and fillers is 220 wet...

From the K36 tech sheet: "Sand the bare metal areas completely with 180 – 240 grit abrasive. Sand old finishes by hand or machine with 320 – 400 grit dry or 600 grit wet."

Figured I was okay with 220 wet... Maybe I should've went a little finer, but don't see any sanding scratches after shooting the K36...

Rogman

 

I had old ugly looking headers on my C2 coupe which i did not like the look of so i bought new ceramic coated Hedman headers and what a difference in heat from the headers

So go ceramic coated for less heat

 

Thanks Saint... Already have McJack's ceramic manifold replacement headers...

Rogman

 

I was "supposed" to leave for D.C. this morning, but the honey-do list was large and I didn't get to prime the body yesterday as planned, but did so this morning...

Made a mistake with the first run of K36... Mixed up an entire quart with hardener, which is enough for two guns worth... About half way through the second gun, it was starting to harden and clogging the gun... Didn't happen when I sprayed the hood, doors and hatch... Humidity was significantly higher today (10% to 35%)... Guessing that made a difference even though the temp was 10-15 degrees cooler... Go figure!!! Live and learn...

No matter how well you "think" you did your body work, that first primer shoot will humble you in a hurry... Definitely will be a guide coat, wet blocking, and re-prime... Happy with some areas, and disappointed in others... I guess not bad for a hack that hasn't done this in 25+ years...

Here are my last photos for awhile... Started to pull the tape/paper/plastic off, but felt I need to take a couple photos...







Got Tass to help me put the doors on real quick... We also just "set" the hood and hatch on...



Cheapo cover from Costco, and she's covered until I can get back to Vegas...



Thanks for looking and commenting...

Rogman