Interior Heat
That (should!) cut down on how much heat from the headers get to the steering box/column.
I'm not a huge fan of header wrap. It doesn't look great and I always worry it's going to start a fire. I occasionally spill flammable liquids on my headers and don't like the idea of it actually starting a fire.
It's just whether you can fabricate something that fits in that gap. If not, just wait for the new headers and see how that goes.
Do you think there might be space for a scoop to pull air up from under the car directly on to the steering/header area to cool them?
I'll tell you once I get my car back and have a chance to drive it
I have a 71 BB with AC where the AC doesn't work, so cabin heat is pretty bad, lol.
It might be worth picking up some oven thermometers and duct taping them to areas under the hood. Oven thermometers are slow reacting, so you could drive, pull over, and check them before the readings drop. I'm not sure if you can get ones that go to lower temperatures though, will have to look in to that.
I'll start playing around with some ideas for engine bay cooling when I get my car back, cheaper than trying to get the air conditioner working
Sorry guys, I think I'm throwing out more questions than answers, it's hard when I don't have the car in front of me to look at.
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Also, speaking of heat blanket, Pep Boys, carries the Design Engineering products, and they have split sleeve blankets, that are velcro'd for wrapping around and protecting harnesses and lines. Why not wrap a sleeve around the outer steering column? Another thing, that popped into my brain. Yesterdat, I decided to shoot the IR gun in the engine bay and I examined the outer side or engine side of the firewall, just to get a 'lay of the land' view, because if the inside is 143, what's the outside area in exactly the same place?
I just finished examining mine and here is what I saw; a big heavy, stamped steel plate, that reinforces the firewall area for the steering column. And the lower corner of this plate is only 1 3/4" inches from the #7 header or most rearward exhaust on the drivers side. I measured 192 degrees in that area! On the inside, the lower part of the column is a constant 125 degrees! I think this area needs protection too!
Also, what is the ambient temperature where you are? I don't really have a reference for these temperatures at the moment, lol.
Been making a metal heatshield to go between the header and the entire width of the steering column and then it wraps around the last header and protects the plate on the firewall. It is a complex shape! Been at it for four hours, adjusting the bends, tweaking and cutting, where necessary.
The tough part was figuring out how to attach it, but not have it touch anything! Got an idea for the scoops too. Thanks for your input, it has been highly helpful!
Last edited by F22; Oct 19, 2013 at 09:02 PM.
In this first picture you can see how close #7 header is to the reverse key switch lockout, which is connected to the same plate that F22 is talking about, a few weeks ago I measured temps there at 184* ambient temps were mid 80's.

This next picture show how close #1 and #5 header tubes are to the steering box but I do agree that the rag joint would, for the most part, insulate the upper part of the steering shaft from the heat in the steering box. my #5 header tube is only about 1/2" away from the steering box.

This next picture shows how close the #7 header tube parallels the upper part of the steering shaft which would radiate a lot of heat to it.

I will soon be buying these headers and will be putting them in the same time I swap out my 4 speed for a 5 speed, should be in a month or so.

I'm hoping with the shape of the new headers and the fact that they are coated will help but I do think that maybe wrapping the headers and maybe wrapping the upper part of the steering shaft will help too. I will also be adding the factory tunnel heat shield and spraying the floor pan and as much of the fire wall as I can get to with lizard skin ceramic heat shield, hopefully all this combined will keep the heat down until I can get my AC working, which will be awhile
If it doesn't work, it could point to a couple of different things, which is why I'd like to test some things on my own car so I can get an idea of what the air flow and heat flow is actually doing by the rear of the engine.
On one of our race cars the driver's seat back sat right against the headers (it was rear engined, east west motor with the intake on the back and exhaust ports out the front toward the driver's seat). We ended up having to heat shield both sides of the firewall (which itself was kevlar/nomex honeycomb/carbon sandwich) to get the temperature down to a level where the driver could go for more than 10 minutes before leaping out of the car and complaining his kidneys were cooking

The headers I have on, are the same 'style' as the ones your contemplating, though, I'm not sure if the ones you are getting, are the 'block hugger' style with tighter radius' to the bends. What brand and style .are these? Oh, and I have a brand new of Heddman headers, in the box, for the D-port heads, that I have to look at today, to compare them to what I have, before I buy anything else.
Today, I finish fabbing the mounts for the heatshield. I figured out a way to attach them, using what the.factory had in that area.












