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Super helpful information in this thread. Took a long time to get through it but I'm glad I did. I'm picking up my new to me C3 in about a month and as the interior is already disassembled I should do some things before I put it back together. I just know older cars make heat but living in the Canadian prairies, heat is in a short supply at times so it's never bad.
But since I want to take this car on a trip to Vegas I now have some new mods that I'm going to want to do before this car is road trip ready.
Again, awesome info and I want to hear how the ram air cooling theory works out.
Super helpful information in this thread. Took a long time to get through it but I'm glad I did. I'm picking up my new to me C3 in about a month and as the interior is already disassembled I should do some things before I put it back together. I just know older cars make heat but living in the Canadian prairies, heat is in a short supply at times so it's never bad.
But since I want to take this car on a trip to Vegas I now have some new mods that I'm going to want to do before this car is road trip ready.
Again, awesome info and I want to hear how the ram air cooling theory works out.
Congrats on the new car. I would say ambient temps above 90* for more than 2 days would need "cooling" insulation,,,,and there is a huge improvement in noise reduction even in a convertible.
I did my 85 with the boiler wrap from LOWES Home Center. It made a huge difference in both noise and heat, and it's cheap. Wrapping the exhaust helps . but be careful it may cause the pipes to rust faster as the wrap can hold moisture.
Make sure all the factory heat shields are in place, including the tunnel shield.
Also the radiator seals are important.
There is a rear hood line weather strip that stops the engine heated air from entering the cowl vents.
My 71 runs cool but I have an oversize radiator and run a 160 thermostat. Even after a 2 hour trip the inside is still ok, I hope to install Vintage air this spring.
I'm definitely taking points. I want a L88 hood and side pipes so there is a ton of good info on this thread that will help, unlike some threads where there is just a bunch of bickering.
So, I read pretty much all of this and still am confused a little bit.
It seems to me that someone on here stated that we need to watch out for the product we peel-and-stick to the fiberglass floors, etc., of our cars. Evidently, there is some concern that some products use chemicals in the rubberized side of the product that will negatively interact with fiberglass. Is there a final word on this, a product recommendation, or someone who has found this to be an erroneous claim?
Second, having posed that question, has anyone tried this and if so, what was the result?
The price is low, which gives me some concern. The objective, of course, is to reduce noise and heat.
Finally, has anyone used ceramic coating on their exhaust manifolds? If so, what were the results and, given the range of colors, what did you select and how is it working out?
I went one step further and installed one ball valve on each hose. I found that even with the water not circulating through the core is still got hot just from conduction from the hot water in the block. Now zero heat from the core.
Also, side pipes reduce heat dramatically.
Those installing ball valves, could you please share the best place where to mount them? Many Thanks!
Those installing ball valves, could you please share the best place where to mount them? Many Thanks!
Car just went in storage so I'm going from memory: There is an adapter nipple next to the thermostat. I pulled that and installed a street 45°, then a close nipple, then the valve, then the adapter nipple. If you can get a valve that has a female on one side and a male on the other, then you won't need the close nipple.
It stops the hot water (coolant/antifreeze) from flowing to the heat exchanger, keeping your interior cool. You can open the valve during cooler days if you want heat.
OK, I get that it keeps the water from coming into the heater core in the cabin, but if it goes back to the water pump(?) doesn't that eventually cause an issue?
I wonder if anyone has tried one of those thermal imaging cameras to actually see where the hot spots are while riding in the passenger seat. That would be a good way to zero in on the source and where to concentrate efforts to insulate.
Those installing ball valves, could you please share the best place where to mount them? Many Thanks!
Installed one just after the water pump outlet, Installed the other one on the line going into the intake manifold but a ways away so it sits near and to the rear of my A/C compressor pretty much hidden from view. I replaced the stock red hose with a black one that was a bit longer so I could position the valve where I wanted it. Also modified the handles on the valves so that they are not these huge things sticking out for all to see. Used brass (bronze?) valves not PVC ones.
Still enjoying the nice cool ride in the cabin.
Last edited by REELAV8R; Oct 24, 2018 at 10:37 AM.
Installed one just after the water pump outlet, Installed the other one on the line going into the intake manifold but a ways away so it sits near and to the rear of my A/C compressor pretty much hidden from view. I replaced the stock red hose with a black one that was a bit longer so I could position the valve where I wanted it. Also modified the handles on the valves so that they are not these huge things sticking out for all to see. Used brass (bronze?) valves not PVC ones.
Still enjoying the nice cool ride in the cabin.
I was having such a rough time with combat-related PTSD this month, the V.A. Doc decided to change my meds..........
and also told me to keep my mind as busy as possible...........
BAD ADVICE...DOC............................ .....
Think........Interior (Distributor) Heat.........
I've fried 2 Ignition Modules in 7 years... Back in the day Ign. modules lasted 20 years So...IF I modify my distributor cap to be air-cooled ............ Cool air from cabin via vacuum hose thru firewall>>>>>>>>> to Dist.cap>>>>>>> Circulates over Ign. module>>>>>>> exits thru 2nd vacuum hose from cap>>>>>>>>>>>>> to air cleaner.............this oughta' be F=U=N.
I'll do a Before / After Infrared temperature reading and post the results
UPDATE: I changed my mind. I'll put inlet/outlet ports in the base of of the distributor housing & connect the vacuum hoses/Hi-Teck Bubba.......
Last edited by doorgunner; Jul 3, 2021 at 01:30 PM.
I think the only thing that will really give you good AC is a switch to vintage Air.... Although
very expensive
I installed Vintage Air in my Corvette (that I've since given my son), the price was fair for what you get. I was lucky and lived in the town they are based in so I just picked up the kit direct from them and saved on shipping. The kit was easy to install (I had my dash completely apart for restoration), and it really cleaned up the engine bay removing that god awful HVAC factory system.
I want to hear more about the valve to cut off from heater core,I’m in the process of redoing interior on my 1981,new carpet,seat covers,painting all pieces including dash,and replacing my heater core,I am adding a sound deadner and a layer of reflex on top of that,then carpet,so would like to be able to control supply going through cab. Thanks for any help. Now,will put reflex on top,for a roll from Lowe’s is only $25 and weights nothing.
I went one step further and installed one ball valve on each hose. I found that even with the water not circulating through the core is still got hot just from conduction from the hot water in the block. Now zero heat from the core.
............
