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I know I'm extremely late to this conversation. I stopped 90% of my heat problems coming into the cabin by installing a $10 shut off valve on heater hose that feeds the heater core.
I forgot which year that shut-off modification was discussed
Originally Posted by COOLTED
The thread that will never die. I laughed when I saw it resurrected again. Good stuff in here.
Tell me about it!
There is a little bit of good news though......."R2D2 CAI" has been replaced in the last year................
Thanks to the idea from Forum Member AddBaller...........He installed a long tapered cone filter in each duct that draws air from the wiper tray (I think I stated that correctly)..........
I also added a belt-driven 2000 CFM flex-fan with it's own separate CAI to force ambient air onto and around the engine/exhaust manifolds/steering box/etc.
NO radiator exhaust-air enters the engine bay......it exits under the car through a 30" wide by 6" deep by 24" high duct...........
(As I always state......I would NEVER do such mods to a decent C3)
Last edited by doorgunner; Jan 21, 2016 at 09:30 PM.
Well, now I am sort of concerned. Im contemplating lining the interior with dynomat or some other alternative for sound deadning, but my 81 does not get hot I guess im not complaining, but I hope nothing is wrong
Well, now I am sort of concerned. Im contemplating lining the interior with dynomat or some other alternative for sound deadning, but my 81 does not get hot I guess im not complaining, but I hope nothing is wrong
I used an infrared temperature gun to find the hot spots in my non-A/C car.
It sounds like your cooling system is working properly..........
If you ever decide to replace the carpet you could line the floorboard/tunnel/firewall at that time.
Stick a ball valve in the heater hose going to the heater core. Turn it off. We're talking $25 (maybe) and 1/2 hour of your time. This solved my heat problem.
I know it's been said before, but I wanted to say it again for those who are stumbling upon this re-re-re-re-resurrected thread.
I used ceramic heat reflective on the engine side of the firewall and under the cab. I wrapped the downpipes in fiberglass wrap (from the manifolds to the transmission crossmember). I added padding under the carpet. None of it helped.
I just completed my interior project on my '74.
Completely covered in dynomat, then reflexit, then carpet with juke backing. Sealed up the firewall and replaced the weather stripping.
Upgraded my ac to a standen 134 unit and did the c4 blower fan upgrade too.
STILL HOTTER THAN A WITCHES TIT IN THERE.
But I'm not giving up......
Any suggestions would be helpful! !!!!!
The weather is very changeable here so I did not want to be diving under the hood all the time to turn off and on a valve so I put a vac operated heater shut of valve in the feed hose to the heater and connected the vac side to a hose from the heater control in the console, I cant remember which one but there was only one that kept the valve closed at all times except when the thumb wheel is rotated to the heat position or the engine is off. There are heaps of valves available on e bay and an added bonus is you cant see the valve unless you are under the car or look very closely down the RH side of the fire wall.
This thread is very long......if you go through it and literally take notes you CAN lower the heat in the interior. It took hours for me to find all the information that I needed, but it definitely lowered the temperature in my engine bay and under my dash/floorboard/kick panels/along the console...........so that I can drive my car in 95*F after I made the modifications (and a few changes of my own).
Last edited by doorgunner; Jun 10, 2016 at 12:12 AM.
I put a lot into this thread, having tried everything, including cutting holes and putting vents in my hood (it works well, to get rid of the heat while it's sitting, that's for sure!), but the biggest problem, that I haven't been able to defeat yet. The steering column heating up to 125 degrees. I have thermal blankets over the steering box and metal covered, ceramic blanketed shields over the headers (yes, I tried ceramic coating on the headers. Yes, I wrapped them, with the very expensive DEI Titanium wrap.
And the steering column heats right up and the heat radiates from that, right between my legs. I'm working on the next solution, which is to force air into the rear driver's corner of the engine compartment.
I put a lot into this thread, having tried everything, including cutting holes and putting vents in my hood (it works well, to get rid of the heat while it's sitting, that's for sure!), but the biggest problem, that I haven't been able to defeat yet. The steering column heating up to 125 degrees. I have thermal blankets over the steering box and metal covered, ceramic blanketed shields over the headers (yes, I tried ceramic coating on the headers. Yes, I wrapped them, with the very expensive DEI Titanium wrap.
And the steering column heats right up and the heat radiates from that, right between my legs. I'm working on the next solution, which is to force air into the rear driver's corner of the engine compartment.
Since my project was a basketcase I was able to experiment in the engine bay and make changes that I would NEVER MAKE to a car that was in better shape.
I look forward to any mod that you do that will cool the steering column........and thanks!
I put a lot into this thread, having tried everything, including cutting holes and putting vents in my hood (it works well, to get rid of the heat while it's sitting, that's for sure!), but the biggest problem, that I haven't been able to defeat yet. The steering column heating up to 125 degrees. I have thermal blankets over the steering box and metal covered, ceramic blanketed shields over the headers (yes, I tried ceramic coating on the headers. Yes, I wrapped them, with the very expensive DEI Titanium wrap.
And the steering column heats right up and the heat radiates from that, right between my legs. I'm working on the next solution, which is to force air into the rear driver's corner of the engine compartment.
I followed all of your tests with great hope you would create the silver bullet. I do appreciate all of the effort you have made in trying to solve the heat issue.
Last edited by maverickmk; Jun 10, 2016 at 09:05 AM.
Hi,I am building a 71 big block auto coupe, soon to have vintage air. I have read most of the 30 pages of how to insulate your car.is there any way for someone to list what definitely works ,under body,engine compartment and interior.thanks for your help
Hi,I am building a 71 big block auto coupe, soon to have vintage air. I have read most of the 30 pages of how to insulate your car.is there any way for someone to list what definitely works ,under body,engine compartment and interior.thanks for your help
I understand your request. The problem is......members who want to keep their car "original" are very limited as to the improvements/changes they can make to reduce interior heat.
Those who are completing "resto-mod cars" can make changes that greatly reduce interior heat (as other members have stated.....reducing under-hood-heat helps greatly to lower interior heat).
Hi,I am building a 71 big block auto coupe, soon to have vintage air. I have read most of the 30 pages of how to insulate your car.is there any way for someone to list what definitely works ,under body,engine compartment and interior.thanks for your help
I got rid of 80% of my heat by simply installing a ball valve in one of the lines that run to the heater core. Otherwise the heater core is taking heat from the engine all the time. Even if you don't have any fans on, that heat is going in to your interior
The Vintage Air kit will come with an electric valve that (I suspect) closes when the AC is on, but if you have a day where it's nice and you don't have the AC on, then you will still be running heat to the interior. I opted to retain my ball valve and not install the Vintage valve. It's possible that it opens ONLY when the heat is on. Not worth the risk for me.
I installed an exhaust wrap that seemed to help. Took it from the manifold to the transmission crossmember.
The factory transmission foam thing probably helps too. I installed that as it was missing.
I'm not sure if it helps with heat, but I installed a sound deadening product (self adhesive rubber with aluminum) and it helped tremendously with the noise.
I got rid of 80% of my heat by simply installing a ball valve in one of the lines that run to the heater core. Otherwise the heater core is taking heat from the engine all the time. Even if you don't have any fans on, that heat is going in to your interior
I went one step further and installed one ball valve on each hose. I found that even with the water not circulating through the core is still got hot just from conduction from the hot water in the block. Now zero heat from the core.
I went one step further and installed one ball valve on each hose. I found that even with the water not circulating through the core is still got hot just from conduction from the hot water in the block. Now zero heat from the core.
Also, side pipes reduce heat dramatically.
Hmm, maybe I should install the VA valve on the other line.
1 valve still allows hot water to the heater core, it just does not flow thru.
double valve will completely isolate the heater core.
if you run 2 vales you can shut off the core in case of a leak.
with only 1 valve you cannot shut water off from leaking heater core.
picture of my insulation job, I take it all the way up the firewall.
I guess im not complaining, but I hope nothing is wrong 
I went one step further and installed one ball valve on each hose. I found that even with the water not circulating through the core is still got hot just from conduction from the hot water in the block. Now zero heat from the core.
