Doorgunner's '68 Convertible Project
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Charlotte NC
But if you want a suggestion ...it is better to not to try to apply too many layers upside down...they can fall. I prefer to apply the layers in different steps to get the thickness I want and be able to span out the pieces of fiberglass to get the seam really reinforced.
This pic is taken looking up and to the rear of the deck and the tail light clip.....I used only one screw in the seam to pull the upper and lower slats against the fiberglass parts.....this is the first layer of woven cloth cut to fit between the slats....once these patches cure I will remove the stats and then add the next layers which will be full-length.......
DUB
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2015
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From: SW Florida.
Probably why they used pre-made bonding strips. I know when i glassed the cockpit of my 34 Hatteras back on after doing the fuel tanks it was BIG fun laying under there pushing strips of wetted mat up there. Resin in your hair is muy unpleasanto!
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,950
Likes: 498
From: Chino Hills CA
Hey DG, even though you got gravity working against you, what you're doing with the fiberglass will turn out having more structural integrity than bonding strips. It should be as strong as if it was one piece. Keep up the great work, you're an inspiration to us all.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 6,397
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From: Saskatoon Saskatchewan
That's how I was thinking I'd do it to bond my 69 rear on my 79. Too bad the wooden slats idea won't work because of the curved rear of the 79.
Thread Starter
2026 Loser of the Year
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From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
Thanks Members! I was worried about applying a solid piece. It's good to know that sections will work.
I still need to put mat down the sides of the quarterpanels before I remove the slats.
I read that the residue on the surface of cured fiberglass can be removed with a good detergent and scotchbrite pads........
could the residue be removed with acetone?
I still need to put mat down the sides of the quarterpanels before I remove the slats.
I read that the residue on the surface of cured fiberglass can be removed with a good detergent and scotchbrite pads........
could the residue be removed with acetone?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,519
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From: Bussey, IA
Simply amazing work DG! You're not afraid of tackling anything are you? You could play for the Alabama defense! Sorry just had to get that in there! LOL! It is amazing how you even think of some of that stuff to get into! You got a great thing going! Keep it up! 
Thread Starter
2026 Loser of the Year
Joined: Sep 2013
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From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
Thanks Andy.....but it's the 10 foot camera shots that make it look good
Alabama=Yep....we kinda' saw that one coming!
Stuff that I get into=Brain damage from being a doorgunner!
Keep it up=As soon as the nightly meds wear off I'll go to the garage!
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 1999
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From: Woodinville WA
Kudos for tackling a tough job man.
Look at post #8 DG: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1586247919
noonie says acetone does not work. -R
Look at post #8 DG: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1586247919
noonie says acetone does not work. -R
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,626
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From: Kanuckistan
2022 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Hey Tony.
I've been really self-centered those lastest months, not checking out much what other people were doing.
My paint craze is over and I now have much more time in my hand, I will try to keep a closer eyes of fellow restomoder's thread like yours.
Impressive work on the gas tank, I wish I could weld (both knowing how and having the space/ressource to do so).
Keep it up, may it be day by day or hour by hour, we'll get there eventually.
I've been really self-centered those lastest months, not checking out much what other people were doing.
My paint craze is over and I now have much more time in my hand, I will try to keep a closer eyes of fellow restomoder's thread like yours.
Impressive work on the gas tank, I wish I could weld (both knowing how and having the space/ressource to do so).
Keep it up, may it be day by day or hour by hour, we'll get there eventually.
Thread Starter
2026 Loser of the Year
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 36,607
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From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
Kudos for tackling a tough job man.
Look at post #8 DG: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1586247919.........noonie says acetone does not work. -R
Look at post #8 DG: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1586247919.........noonie says acetone does not work. -R
Thanks Glen........"let me see if I can yank up my boot-straps!"
Hey Tony.
I've been really self-centered those lastest months, not checking out much what other people were doing.
My paint craze is over and I now have much more time in my hand, I will try to keep a closer eyes of fellow restomoder's thread like yours.
Impressive work on the gas tank, I wish I could weld (both knowing how and having the space/ressource to do so).
Keep it up, may it be day by day or hour by hour, we'll get there eventually.
I've been really self-centered those lastest months, not checking out much what other people were doing.
My paint craze is over and I now have much more time in my hand, I will try to keep a closer eyes of fellow restomoder's thread like yours.
Impressive work on the gas tank, I wish I could weld (both knowing how and having the space/ressource to do so).
Keep it up, may it be day by day or hour by hour, we'll get there eventually.
It's probably good timing with the weather though....it will give me time to "get myself together" enough to face the memorial in 6 days of my Son's death....he was (is) 20 years old.
You guys hang in there!
Last edited by doorgunner; Nov 12, 2015 at 02:34 PM.
Race Director
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From: Charlotte NC
DUB
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From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
If you are referring to wet un-cured resin that gets on a surface...YES...acetone can be used. If it gets on cured paint you have to be quick with the acetone. Apply it and get it off right away....let that dry out for a minute and do it again. ON FRESH PAINT...you are screwed.
DUB
DUB
I managed to remove most of the wooden slats across the top of the deck.....then go underneath and patch the gaps left by the slats. I'll try to work my way down the quarter panels with mat/resin tomorrow...
I was surprised how strong one layer woven mat can be....once the whole underside seam is covered I will scrub it, then add another layer of woven mat. I decided to go with 5" wide patches.
The more at look at that frame, the more I am positive that it will get a heated bath to remove the internal and external rust (in my younger days I worked at a company that was licensed to "boil" frames.....they came out of the tank solid grey after a day or two submerged in the huge heated vat.
And......Yes......I'm being highly optimistic at the moment about getting some work done tomorrow
8/18/2017 Adding more pics...................................
Last edited by doorgunner; Aug 19, 2017 at 12:16 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Charlotte NC
Looking good from what I can see.
If anything I can add is that when you grind down what you applied so you can add more....depending on the type of resin you used....when you go back and laminate in more....make the patches in sections/lengths that you know you can easily handle and control. A wise move if you have not figured it out is wearing head sock like painters use when painting. Resin hair is NO fun to get out.
DUB
If anything I can add is that when you grind down what you applied so you can add more....depending on the type of resin you used....when you go back and laminate in more....make the patches in sections/lengths that you know you can easily handle and control. A wise move if you have not figured it out is wearing head sock like painters use when painting. Resin hair is NO fun to get out.
DUB
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2026 Loser of the Year
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From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
A 5" by 8" section is all I can handle without the resin starting to thicken. I'm using the Bondo resin underneath the deck to learn with, and I am saving the good stuff for the visible seams. I also learned to keep the box of rubber gloves and acetone within reach.
And I thought that rebuilding a trailing arm was hard.
And I thought that rebuilding a trailing arm was hard.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Charlotte NC
A 5" by 8" section is all I can handle without the resin starting to thicken. I'm using the Bondo resin underneath the deck to learn with, and I am saving the good stuff for the visible seams. I also learned to keep the box of rubber gloves and acetone within reach.
And I thought that rebuilding a trailing arm was hard.
And I thought that rebuilding a trailing arm was hard.
The reason I am asking...is that if you are mixing the resin and applying it and all you can do it get one layer of 5" x 8" cloth in place. It seems to me that you have too much hardener in your resin. You should have more work time.
And I know it is too late. But...why would you not use GOOD resin for the entire project. I understand that it is all on the underside of the panel...BUT...what it is doing is VERY IMPORTANT...and you are in essence...relying on this laminated area to last.
DUB
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From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
QUESTION: How long is it taking your resin to thicken and no longer be viscous???
The reason I am asking...is that if you are mixing the resin and applying it and all you can do it get one layer of 5" x 8" cloth in place. It seems to me that you have too much hardener in your resin. You should have more work time.
And I know it is too late. But...why would you not use GOOD resin for the entire project. I understand that it is all on the underside of the panel...BUT...what it is doing is VERY IMPORTANT...and you are in essence...relying on this laminated area to last.
DUB
The reason I am asking...is that if you are mixing the resin and applying it and all you can do it get one layer of 5" x 8" cloth in place. It seems to me that you have too much hardener in your resin. You should have more work time.
And I know it is too late. But...why would you not use GOOD resin for the entire project. I understand that it is all on the underside of the panel...BUT...what it is doing is VERY IMPORTANT...and you are in essence...relying on this laminated area to last.
DUB
It takes about 10 minutes for the resin to thicken like pudding....being a rookie I am going very slowly....I am putting 8 drops per ounce of resin....after an hour I can dent the patch with my fingernail.
I wanted to use the Bondo resin to learn with in case it didn't hold. It seems that I cleaned and prepared to underside of the deck and the tail light clip correctly. I have tried to break the patchwork aloose with a gasket scraper but could not separate it---it seems to have become thoroughly joined to the original body fiberglass.
Today was another rough day psychologically/emotionally....so I didn't do any work on the car.
Thread Starter
2026 Loser of the Year
Joined: Sep 2013
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From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
A 5" by 8" section is all I can handle without the resin starting to thicken. I'm using the Bondo resin underneath the deck to learn with, and I am saving the good stuff for the visible seams. I also learned to keep the box of rubber gloves and acetone within reach.
And I thought that rebuilding a trailing arm was hard.
And I thought that rebuilding a trailing arm was hard.
I can apply 3 sections before the resin thickens.
Since I am very slow at doing this, I now mix only enough resin to apply 2 sections at a time......then there is no wasted resin mixture.
Last edited by doorgunner; Nov 14, 2015 at 03:29 PM.