Hey Tony, have you looked at making a thicker pad for you creeper, maybe out of memory foam or something to give your back abit more cushioning and support where its needed?


Nice bracket by the way...Better than Bubba

 

Very nice work on the bracket Tony, but if I have to see one more photo with your unfinished Harley in the background I’m going to fly out and finish it myself.
LOL!

 

My wife just put 2 memory foam pillows in a trash bag in the garage,,,,, SCORE!!!



You just reminded me to order some non-adhesive black vinyl wiring bundle wrap....then I can button up the Harley...shoot some video of the engine going Baaa-Bump Baaa-Bump Baaa-Bump!

 

Hmmm. I always thought Harleys say “potato-potato-potato-potato”! 😎

 

That's the Idaho Harley, not the Milwaukee ones

 

Meanwhile....back in C-Ward.....

The spine surgery worked well with the creeper...I modified the butchered P.Brake pulley so there would be plenty of adjustment and the P.Brake would actually grab better.....pardon all the grime and Bubba's removable trans. mount....





I moved the pulley bracket forward 3" toward the front of the car (not shown) and now have Full Adjustment on the threaded end.

To quote my Recovery Room Nurse....."Taaaaaaaaaa Daaaaaaaaa!"

 

I really like the e-brake pulley upgrade.
Nice work Tony

 

"If it wouldn't have been a basketcase I never would have modded it"

I had to take yesterday off and get back to the heating pad

I don't know the diameter of the plastic OEM pulley wheel/sheave but the new 3" is supposed to give a noticeable increase in handle leverage.

By the way....for those folks who use all the thread adjustment and the shoes barely touch the drums...moving the pulley bracket takes all the slack out of the cable system

554000

 

UPDATE:My friend wanted a "700+h.p." 4L80E for his truck...he told me to match the core charge and this 4L60 could be mine.
MINE

The Intermediate Band(?) is toasted. The 3-4 clutch assembly is toasted. The steel check ***** have nearly hammered themselves thru the separator-plate/one ball is seized in the plate. A couple bushings show a little wear. The 3rd(?) gear servo is stuck in the bore.
But even worse......
It amazed me that the transmission has never been touched internally AND YET 5 of the valve body bolts along the front row of the valve body were only a little more than finger tight which caused the thin separator-plate gaskets to blow out in one corner

It's nothing a basic rebuild kit can't fix

EDIT: Annnnd this is the Case (no internal parts installed yet) after a couple hours of scrubbing and a couple cans of "Blasted Metal Silver"..........

 

Oh WOW Tony! I woukd NEVER get unto a tranny! But you are far more talented and brave than I am! What is your plan for a lock-up? Watching very closely. Thad would like to do that (stick in an overdrive tranny) with his Elky, but not sure of what all he would have to do!

 

Substitute "squirrely" in place of talented......I'm watching youtube ideas and sorting out things as I go along,

I hope to be able to lock-up the torque converter without doing a wheel-stand

The fully electric transmissions are a pain to rewire...and I'm not going to invest $800-$900 in a OEM ECM/Throttle position sensor/mass airflow sensor/ wiring harness.
The NON-electric 4L60 base transmission doesnt need all the extras, but I scored this 4L60E trans first.
A basic aftermarket Controller/$500 would be much easier, but.......that is a last resort.

I'll post a step by step rebuild as I learn how to do everything.

 

Tony, great job. I watch this fellow on YouTube. I believe his shop is in Amarillo, Tx. Richard is his name. An automatic transmission guru!
https://www.youtube.com/c/PrecisionTransmission/videos

 

I'm collecting all the notes I made from his videos so I can have a checklist to rebuild my "new" trans...it seems over the years he has mentioned many tricks/must-do steps to make the transmission better in different videos.My new-to-me 4L60E needs a few parts to get it 100% again (I realize I could put $1,000 worth of upgrades into the rebuild, but 300 h.p. rating is all I need.

Front seal/rear seal/shifter shaft seal/piston seals/etc.

....a new separator plate ( 3 of the steel check ***** have nearly hammered their way thru the plate)

....a new/wider Intermediate band

(.....all the steel parts & gears look new )

.....a new 1600-1800 stall torque converter (my friend kept the original Lock-Up converter)

I will need an adapter to connect a TH700R4 Tailshaft housing to the 4L60E case.....good thing I'm a machinist!

......add a plastic speedometer Drive gear to the 4L60E output shaft

......add a speedometer gear assembly with plastic Driven gear to the tailhousing in order to keep my cable-driven speedometer

......add a transmission in-line cooler with built-in 180* thermostat



Fabricate a simple test-stand to make sure the trans shifts correctly before installing it (I realize it will shift sooner into each gear because there will be NO load on the output shaft sliding yoke)

I will work out the details on a shift controller---either DIY or basic aftermarket type.
Later

 

Tony, you are WAY to ambitious!

 

I did all this crap on a 700R4. Way more of a PITA to rebuild than a T400!

 

Yep...when helicopter was about to land in a hot LZ the flight engineer would tell me..."We don't want any John Wayne Crap today...GOT IT!"


YEP again...all those extra rotating parts get confusing.....then gm takes the 4L60E and throws in some electricity .....
good thing my head is harder than bricks .

 

When we rebuilt our T-400, we bought the book, then laid it all out on a sheet of plywood, marking everything with a name & number with a sharpie as it came out of the case. Re-assembly was easy....just going backwards. It was easier than I thought it would be.

 

I like the books with lots of color pictures.......

 

LIke our fearless leader, I like the books that I color in myself