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Ditto. Use the machined vertical machined edge surface of the trans yoke, and the diff yoke, after pulling the driveshaft.
You bought a Tremec right from Silversport?
Here is some info from them: https://shiftsst.com/blog/post/drive...Spicer%20table.
I shimmed mine - clearance and drive line angles were just fine
Thanks - this sounds promising.
Originally Posted by 69schemers
Nice car,
I like to use the machined vertical surface where the u-joint strap bolts rather then an as cast surface. I feel it is more accurate.
Originally Posted by leigh1322
Ditto. Use the machined vertical machined edge surface of the trans yoke, and the diff yoke, after pulling the driveshaft.
You bought a Tremec right from Silversport?
Here is some info from them: https://shiftsst.com/blog/post/drive...Spicer%20table.
Thanks guys! This is very helpful information. I'm pretty sure I will be able to make meaningful measurements now. Using planes at 90 degrees from the axles is a trick I had not thought about.
(I did get a TKO600 from SST)
I have been busy doing basic maintenance on the Alpine this week but managed to measure the 3 angles yesterday. I have a bad case of the W configuration - it's out of whack:
Engine to Driveshaft Angle: 3.2 - 2.0 = 1.2 degrees.
Driveshaft to Differential Angle: 2.0 + 1.6 = 3.6 degrees.
That's too much of a delta.
A little bit of math shows that if I raise the differential at the snubber by 1/3", I'll get good numbers:
Engine to Driveshaft Angle: 3.2 - 1.3 = 1.9 degrees.
Driveshaft to Differential Angle: 1.3 + 0.6 = 1.9 degrees.
A perfect match!
Now, how to raise the differential by 1/3"?
#1. Torque the snubber bolt . It wasn't torqued at all. Torquing it and thus compressing the rubber takes care of about 1/10".
#2. For the remaining 1/4", I wonder if I can cut off 1/4" from my rubber and steel guide:
You're right DoorGunner, after torquing the numbers are better: Engine to Driveshaft Angle: 3.2 - 1.8 = 1.4 degrees. Driveshaft to Differential Angle: 1.8 + 0.9 = 2.7 degrees.
Not quite where I want them to be yet. Current plan of record: cut off 1/8" of the bushing's rubber and steel, then measure again. I think I will be golden then.
Give Dan at Van Steel a call.
They offer a Derlin rear crossmember bushing kit that raises the rear differential.
They advertise 3/4” but I’ve read that measurement does vary.
Dan can help you with the drive shaft angles and I believe they also offer different bushing kits to set up the angles.
You're right DoorGunner, after torquing the numbers are better: Engine to Driveshaft Angle: 3.2 - 1.8 = 1.4 degrees. Driveshaft to Differential Angle: 1.8 + 0.9 = 2.7 degrees.
Not quite where I want them to be yet. Current plan of record: cut off 1/8" of the bushing's rubber and steel, then measure again. I think I will be golden then.
Keep us updated...I also heard that the diff. "rises" a certain amount and maintains the rise-angle while the car is being driven at a "constant speed".
Setting up a secure "pointer" aimed at a yellow dot on the side of the diff. could help determine the angle of rise on your specific car at highway speeds...
setting up a GoPro to record the event under driving conditions is "another Animal".
Thanks doorgunner and OldCarBum. I got in touch with Van Steel but they only offered that 3/4" raise which was way too much for me. I needed a 1/8" lift.
I ended up ordering a new polyurethane kit because on the ad picture it looked thinner than my rubber bushing. When it came, it was in fact as thick as the rubber one, so... I sawed off some of its material and landed on reasonable angles:
And the approximate result:
Engine to Driveshaft Angle: 3.2 - 1.2 = 2.0 degrees. Driveshaft to Differential Angle: 1.2 + 0.8 = 2.0 degrees.
All right, time for an update.
My next step was to address all the clearancing issues with my Doug's headers. They were hitting the Steeroids u-joint and bracket, and came a bit too close to the chassis. I meticulously followed this educational video to dimple my headers:
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
. It wasn't torqued at all. Torquing it and thus compressing the rubber takes care of about 1/10".
