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'72 Convertible Conversion, no going back now

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Old Oct 25, 2015 | 04:31 PM
  #81  
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maybe you should make your avatar a double shot of the car in both versions. maybe stacked. one facing each way.
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Old Oct 25, 2015 | 04:34 PM
  #82  
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lowbuck72.......can you post the two measurements in the pics below, and also the radius of the lid rear corners? The previous owner fiberglassed over the gap/the deck lid will not open. I will be able to cut out the filler and make the lid usable again.....................










Thanks
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Old Oct 25, 2015 | 09:47 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by doorgunner
lowbuck72.......can you post the two measurements in the pics below, and also the radius of the lid rear corners? The previous owner fiberglassed over the gap/the deck lid will not open. I will be able to cut out the filler and make the lid usable again.....................










Thanks
Hey DG, the width of the decklid just behind the seats is about 55 1/2", but tapers down to about 53 1/4" just before the radius. The radius is about 1 3/16" which is one half of the diameter I measured at 2 3/8".The center length of the decklid to the first front crease is about 20 9/16". I hope that helps. Too bad it wasn't just bonded in or you could just take the handy heat gun to it. Good luck
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Old Oct 25, 2015 | 10:19 PM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by lowbuck72
Hey DG, the width of the decklid just behind the seats is about 55 1/2", but tapers down to about 53 1/4" just before the radius. The radius is about 1 3/16" which is one half of the diameter I measured at 2 3/8".The center length of the decklid to the first front crease is about 20 9/16". I hope that helps. Too bad it wasn't just bonded in or you could just take the handy heat gun to it. Good luck
You guys ......... keep an eye on me! I didn't even think about the heat gun.

I'll mark the area and use the heat gun first/maybe I can dig out the filler if the gap isn't fiberglassed shut!
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Old Oct 25, 2015 | 10:34 PM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by doorgunner
You guys ......... keep an eye on me! I didn't even think about the heat gun.

I'll mark the area and use the heat gun first/maybe I can dig out the filler if the gap isn't fiberglassed shut!
Wear gloves, the blisters on my palms are almost completely healed.
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Old Oct 25, 2015 | 11:13 PM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by lowbuck72
Wear gloves, the blisters on my palms are almost completely healed.
LOL......I will have to wear welder's gloves....while sitting under the rear deck heating/scraping the filler/goop off------I dropped the 2" wide gasket scraper on my forearm......

toasted!

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Old Oct 26, 2015 | 08:39 PM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by doorgunner
LOL......I will have to wear welder's gloves....while sitting under the rear deck heating/scraping the filler/goop off------I dropped the 2" wide gasket scraper on my forearm......

toasted!

Ouch!
Well, anyway, finished the decklid channel drain tubes today. Just took a couple of pieces of 5/16" aluminum tubing, put a 90 degree bend in it, put a flange on the end, drilled and countersunk the holes in the decklid channel, another couple of holes out into the wheel wells, and bonded them in place. I don't expect to leave it out in a rainstorm, but it might help when I wash it.
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Old Oct 26, 2015 | 10:30 PM
  #88  
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Now THAT'S going to last a long time.....no rubber tubing to fail in a few years!

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Old Oct 27, 2015 | 10:28 PM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by doorgunner
Now THAT'S going to last a long time.....no rubber tubing to fail in a few years!

Now on to final sanding and spot puttying here and there. Hope to start painting tomorrow. Pulling out all the stops, bought the good stuff...
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Old Oct 27, 2015 | 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by lowbuck72
Now on to final sanding and spot puttying here and there. Hope to start painting tomorrow. Pulling out all the stops, bought the good stuff...
"It's not the bat......it's the batter!"
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Old Oct 27, 2015 | 10:34 PM
  #91  
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I add generic catylist for one-part acrylic enamel to rustoleum. I think it shortens dry time some.
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Old Oct 27, 2015 | 10:55 PM
  #92  
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WAIT A MINUTE!

You guys are yanking my chain.....

I may be a rookie.......

but I know one thing .............................

fiberglass doesn't RUST!

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Old Oct 27, 2015 | 11:24 PM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by doorgunner
WAIT A MINUTE!

You guys are yanking my chain.....

I may be a rookie.......

but I know one thing .............................

fiberglass doesn't RUST!


Last edited by Frank_Nesta; Oct 27, 2015 at 11:27 PM.
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Old Oct 28, 2015 | 10:13 PM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by Frank_Nesta
Sorry, they were all out of Won't-Rust-because-it's-Fiberglass-oleum.

The paint is thinned 50% with mineral spirits, and although it takes a full day for the first coat to dry. subsequent coats dry in about 8 hours. At two coats a day, by next Wed I can stop painting. Then it has to sit a good week before color sanding and compounding and then the real fun and magic happens.
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Old Oct 28, 2015 | 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by lowbuck72
Sorry, they were all out of Won't-Rust-because-it's-Fiberglass-oleum.

The paint is thinned 50% with mineral spirits, and although it takes a full day for the first coat to dry. subsequent coats dry in about 8 hours. At two coats a day, by next Wed I can stop painting. Then it has to sit a good week before color sanding and compounding and then the real fun and magic happens.
That reminds me of the good-old-days when they repainted your car and told you.................

"Don't put ANYTHING on this new paint for the next 30 days except water to rinse the dust off".
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Old Oct 29, 2015 | 08:59 PM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by doorgunner
That reminds me of the good-old-days when they repainted your car and told you.................

"Don't put ANYTHING on this new paint for the next 30 days except water to rinse the dust off".
The paint has hardened enough after about a week to color sand , compound, and bring out the deep gloss, but I don't wax or do anything else to seal the finish for a at least a month. Even a couple of months later, you could, (if you wanted to) dig a fingernail into the finish and leave a mark. BRRRRRR. Still, a small consolation for a decent looking paint job for next to nothing in cost.
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Old Nov 3, 2015 | 08:55 PM
  #97  
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On the home stretch. Applied 12 thinned coats of Rustoleum. 1st picture is after 2 coats, next picture is after 4 coats, next is after the 12th coat. I'll let is harden til next week, and then a solid day of color sanding and compounding.
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Old Nov 3, 2015 | 10:26 PM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by lowbuck72
On the home stretch. Applied 12 thinned coats of Rustoleum. 1st picture is after 2 coats, next picture is after 4 coats, next is after the 12th coat. I'll let is harden til next week, and then a solid day of color sanding and compounding.
Are you rolling the paint on? Man that looks great! I am assuming that is what is on the rest of the car? If so, how long has that been on the body? I am getting ready to paint my 74 and Am looking at almost $1000 in materials when all said and done.
Thanks
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Old Nov 3, 2015 | 10:42 PM
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Old Nov 3, 2015 | 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by havesometo
You're a lot braver than I am.
. That says it all.
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