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Window adjustment without messing up door alignment
I'm throwing a quick question out there as I'm at work and not have had a chance to consult my 82 service manual.
Frankly I'm a bit bored and would rather ponder about my car than deal with my idiot, blowhard boss. This is tough to swallow as I own my own company.
I was playing around with door alignment last weekend as gaps and door closing is a pet peeve. The drivers side is perfect--it came that way.
The passenger side is a bit off and I've been playing with striker bolts and hinge adjsutments. I have it pretty good (1/16ish away) and it has a decent door "click" when being closed with the power window down.
Now, with the power window up, it will still close and align but with a bit more "umphf" than I'd like. It seems the door alignment has made the window sit up higher and catches a bit on the T-Top seal. Again, with a little extra nudge, the door closes and clicks well.
Is there an easy way to adjust the window down about an 1/8 of an inch? Again I have not looked at the service manual, just asking the question so I know what to look for when I get home.
Now, if only my "nose to the grindstone" boss would let me off early
Last edited by billschroeder5842; Aug 25, 2016 at 02:45 PM.
There are a number of 'adjustments' that you can make on the window positioning. The best reference for how to do this is the CCSM (Chevrolet Chassis Service Manual). No other document describes this in as much detail. You will need to remove the interior door panel and vapor barrier sheeting (if your car still has it). Then, just follow the instructions in the CCSM.
Gut feeling says the adjustment range on the glass will give enough for success... but on my last go-round I absolutely could not get the drivers side perfect... so I conceeded and had the expert at J&D Corvette adjust it... its perfect.
Perhaps a body shop in your area could be your back-up if it gets difficult.
I put 6 hours into the "fix" and am probably no better than where I began. It seems that there is some odd "pivot" when the window track so the window will rock fore and aft slightly on the way up but settle one it hits the retainers.
I had a hell of a time getting the front to seat properly with the door closed, however it worked will when the door was open?
I had that poor window going up and down so many times that the motor actually overheated (!) and stopped working. I took a break and let it cool and it is back to normal.
If it works ok when the door is open but struggles when its shut there's too much friction from the front rubber.
What I did when I put my 77 back together was leave all the top adjustments loose , that's the front and back verticle track bolts (6) and the two anti rattle pads as well . Shut the door while your in the car and wind it up to the top and let it find its own spot .You may have to gently guide the glass away from that small steel retainer/clip as I had to Tighten it up and its been fine ever since .
Of course you wont find this instruction in any manual .
worn or missing inner window seals (on the door card ) can effect the angle it goes up/down as well. new ones tend to push the glass out a bit more
If you have any movement in your front and rear rollers that go in the front and rear vertical tracks...attempting to adjust your door glass and have it work correctly is pointless....that is just my opinion on this and I have done countless.
And without stirring up a HORNETS NEST...the type of weatherstrips CAN effect the door glass from going all the way up due to its density...versus the latex designed weatherstrips that GM used originally that are being offered.
Some of the aftermarket rear vertical weatherstrips for a 1978 to 1982 are really dense and cause the glass to push out or bind badly when going up. The SAME holds true for teh pillars...and also the T-top w/s.
I guess it boils down to the level of excellence a person is looking to achieve.
I guess it boils down to the level of excellence a person is looking to achieve.I
I've discovered that if I turn the radio up just a bit, everything becomes relative.
My window actually seats ok (for the moment) but as you mentioned the rubber seals do make a difference. I put some Armour All on the seals to make them a tad slippery and that helps the window to slide into place easier.
Using a polymer polish, like Nu-Vinyl on seals is much better for them and does a good job of keeping them from dragging when windows close. Armor-All will eventually eat-up the seals. Polymer polish will dry completely, minimize UV rays getting to the rubber, will not chip or peel, and you only have to do them every few months (not every time you wash/clean the car).
I can't locate it on the forum here, but Willcox (a supporting vendor) has published window diagrams a number of times. You can also check their website here for details.