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FWIW: power locks became a factory option beginning with the 78 models. Any 78-82 AIM shows the factory install if you want to take a look at that approach.
When I started to work on this car, I found a wire burn, from Tail lights> to Driver door> light switch>to safety switch> to fuse block, it all had to come out, how or why it ran was beyond me. the door locks were not working, alarm system non existent. So I left it all out. Did I mention I did not find out the extent of this till after the body work on the door was done.
I'm in the midst of doing mine...mainly because I am modding the interior door panel - I wanted to clean it up. I used the factory linkage all the way to where the pull is- and mounted the solenoid on the bottom of the door. The handle requires a lot of force so I made a bracket linkage that I could take advantage of the leverage.
Not at the car now- but will post some pics later.
Oh- go to the junkyard and look at the emergency cable pull trunk release set-ups. There's so really neat pieces you can scavenge off the inside of the trunk .
I moved the door lock as well-Used a M-B door lock pull-
And here's the button to release the door- and yes -I have it wired so driving down the road the door will not unlock... the brakes or e-brake has to be on.
Interesting....like to see it when your done....thanks
I don't know why anyone would want to do this on a Corvette anyway. I like the looks of the handles and so do a lot of other people which means that it is going to limit your number of buyers if you decide to sell. This was started with the older cars who wanted to de-chrome everything including emblems for a custom look and I can see that but it just don't make sense on a Corvette.
If you like it go for it. I personally like it am planning on doing it to mine. I don't do thinks to my cars because everybody else likes it I do it because it is what I like it just has to be done with quality workmanship.
I am doing the best I can with the tools I have...it'a all anyone can ask or do. that is why it been a 5yr project. I have had too many so called experts take short cuts to my disappointment, then I have to re-do it. And if it is not right then I have myself to blame, and re-do it again until it is right.
I am sure you will do a fine job. Keep us posted on your progress and don't let any of the negative comments get you down. As I tell people when they say why are you doing that you are going to hurt the resale value. I tell them if they want to pay for everything I will do it their way but as long as I am paying for it and doing the work I will do it to my way, as far as styling goes. That is what makes this such a great hobby you can be an individual and not just be a cookie cutter.
I am sure you will do a fine job. Keep us posted on your progress and don't let any of the negative comments get you down. As I tell people when they say why are you doing that you are going to hurt the resale value. I tell them if they want to pay for everything I will do it their way but as long as I am paying for it and doing the work I will do it to my way, as far as styling goes. That is what makes this such a great hobby you can be an individual and not just be a cookie cutter.
Resale value and less buyers? On the otherhand I don't understand restoring a car and trying to get engine paint overspray on the bellhousing so it looks just as sloppy as the day it left the factory....maybe it's just me???
Back to the issue-
As far as a back up plan- you don't need to run another power wire to the battery- just a couple of small gauge wires off the door lock ( or solenoid ) something sort of easy to get to then you can simply hit it w/ say your Dewalt/Makita drills battery pack.
And I do recommencement a cable pull as well... you could make it accessible through the door handle- when you push the handle down-have a cable end accessible and maybe use a paper clip to pull on it.
And I do recommend a safety type electric lock out on the solenoids- as I would not want to be driving down the highway and pop the doors...
Here's my attempt to have a nice clean pull on the door handle,
This is the first bracket I whipped-second generation will have a longer lower arm- to get a little more leverage.
One particular vehicle I remember was my buddies daily driver truck. Had several problems with the solenoids. He had a cable hidden under the wiper cowl to manually open the door, was a pain in the *** to pull it hard enough, had to use pliers. Of course it eventually broke. In freezing/snowy weather. In the dark. Working out of town. Tools inside of course. And running late. A big rock opened the window so he could make it to work for a twelve hour shift, where the truck sat unattended in a make-shift parking lot of a chemical plant construction site. Did I mention freezing/snowy weather?
Last edited by Richard Daugird; Aug 30, 2016 at 09:38 PM.
Resale value and less buyers? On the otherhand I don't understand restoring a car and trying to get engine paint overspray on the bellhousing so it looks just as sloppy as the day it left the factory....maybe it's just me??? NO , I think the same.
Back to the issue-
As far as a back up plan- you don't need to run another power wire to the battery- just a couple of small gauge wires off the door lock ( or solenoid ) something sort of easy to get to then you can simply hit it w/ say your Dewalt/Makita drills battery pack. Yes , I thought of that too.
And I do recommencement a cable pull as well... you could make it accessible through the door handle- when you push the handle down-have a cable end accessible and maybe use a paper clip to pull on it.This real do able
And I do recommend a safety type electric lock out on the solenoids- as I would not want to be driving down the highway and pop the doors...Good idea
Here's my attempt to have a nice clean pull on the door handle,
This is the first bracket I whipped-second generation will have a longer lower arm- to get a little more leverage.
One particular vehicle I remember was my buddies daily driver truck. Had several problems with the solenoids. He had a cable hidden under the wiper cowl to manually open the door, was a pain in the *** to pull it hard enough, had to use pliers. Of course it eventually broke. In freezing/snowy weather. In the dark. Working out of town. Tools inside of course. And running late. A big rock opened the window so he could make it to work for a twelve hour shift, where the truck sat unattended in a make-shift parking lot of a chemical plant construction site. Did I mention freezing/snowy weather?
All good points. Lucky Me I live in Nevada, Carson city area, Dayton. Not much snow or rain...hot, windy....and wild horses to help me get around if need be..just have to catch them.
Hello all and thanks for all the advice....being hard headed and some what I'll do it my way gets me in trouble at times...basically I want to see for my self..Well, winter is easing up and my medical is healing so thought I would take a closer look at the door actuator hook up..Once I got over the I have to cut an opening in the door shock, opened a small area that did not real help, The window guide is in the way, then to position the solenoid to clear the window travel, just barley, next the wire/cable was in the way and then the plastic shield that covers the door lock an added problem.....SO..scrap that idea,
I ordered a power lock actuator and linkage w/ door handles that are complete, mine were broken which was the reason for trying this shaved door opener thing.
Oh well lesson learned.
DB
First..That is a nice 77 you have there....you have done a great job on it..Nice work area, lift, impressive. Done all the work your self, Mechanical, Paint, Electrical, interior, Dam... good job.
I've been on this project 6 yr's now (medical got in the way) but it has not seen the inside of a shop other than my garage.. I had to re-move the motor and take it to ST. George UT, when living in Mesquite, NV. for a rebuild, Twice. 1 st. motor was a 396 crate @ 60 Thousand over bore with vibration from low end to high rpm. Now I have a 350 ci /300 hp. motor runs good.
Why ?? that's kind of open. I noticed the inside door panel is different from mine, your rods run on the out side of the sheet metal and between the door cover pad, mine are inside next to the window. You have electric windows, I have manual, you probably already have electric locks, mine manual.
you have room at the bottom of the door and the access openings look bigger....
I did not want to cut a hole large enough to waken the structure.
When I got the car the passenger side door handle did not work it was missing the L shaped lever used to push on the door linkage to open.
the door locks were not operational. so I removed them thinking I would use a shaved door hookup.
It's not going to work for me, So I will attempt installing a power lock which was not there before and see if that will work.?
OK..Moving along a little each day....cause I do not know what I am doing...Any way, I received the power lock actuators and got them into the door ok now waiting for the 2 wire connectors that affix to the actuators...inn the mail of course.
SO I am looking at the door trim...Here is where I need some input please..
At the top of the door where the window comes out, there are two peace's of trim, one is chrome, which screws to the inner top lip area of the outer door skin. The other is the weather strip that looks like it is to push into the holes in the door where the chrome strip
went. Problem..HOW do I get it pushed into place....???? I am about to place a punch on each split plug and hit it with a mallet.This does not sound right to me..so HELP..PLEASE.IS THERE A WAY TO DO THIS????
