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Have ya ever had a pilotbearing that absolutely refused to move. Tried all the tricks i could find online, and just trashed the jaws on a puller from harbor freight Not the best puller i know but geez. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
I just posted in tech/performance...
I just did mine. Pack bread chunks inside the bushing and use a 1/2" or 5/8" bolt and beat the bolt with a hammer to compress the bread. Add bread as needed. It took me 2 pieces of wonder bread. Clean the bread out with a screwdriver and your done. A lot less messy than grease.
I've always had good luck w/ the "toilet paper/hydraulic" approach:
Take a good amount of tp & soak it in water...then stuff it in the pilot bearing...
Use a piece of alum/steel/whatever insert that fits the ID of the pilot bearing nice &
tight....then just hit the insert with a hammer a few times, and the bearing will
come right out!!
Redvetracr advice is gold. Had to use a 3/4 tap and crank on it. Thought the tap might break a few times but it finally pulled it out . Clutch is in,trans is in calling it a day. Thanks again folks.
solid bronze is not magnetic, which has better lubercating, original PB were pure bronze the newer PB have some other metals in it along with the bronze,
SIMPLY because some of the bronze pilot bushings I have in my tool box that had come in with clutch kits WERE MAGNETIC due to iron particles made in it. They were replaced with the oilite bronze design
If you all need to see a photos of one of these bogus pilot bushings stuck to a magnet..I will post one. This is not a figment of my imagination.
And we all know ( or should know) the oilite bronze bushing from the facotry were NOT magnetic.
Maybe this thread can shed more light on what I wrote. If POST #2 does not confirm what I wrote...then the photo in POST #3 may prove it. But I am sure there will be someone out there that feels that it does not matter....or I am full of it.
Thank you for sharing the knowledge, my question was sincere and if it seemed otherwise it was unintentional. The new bushing was not magnetized. Thanks again
Thank you for sharing the knowledge, my question was sincere and if it seemed otherwise it was unintentional. The new bushing was not magnetized. Thanks again
No problems with your inquiry on my end...and what I wrote was read in a manner other than what I intended...I guess I read it differently before I hit 'submit reply'.
When I use CAPITOL letters when I write...that does not mean I am yelling...it just emphasizes importance.... in my opinion...which is why I do it.
I quit buying the original bronze type bushings altogether and now use the needle bearings . There are too many cheap bronze bushings out there like the ones sold at Advance . The tolerances are off on the inside diameter on some and are too tight on the pilot shaft .
found that one out the hard way got lazy didnt check it beforehand
Found a GM one they were pretty cheap dont know if they are still available.
That cheap one I couldnt hydraulic out for the life of me
Had to take a carbide bit and make one heck of a mess follow by chisel/hammer etc lol
somehow managed not to booger the crank up.
Went with a Mcleod super street pro clutch kit i think it was called. The PB fit nicely on the shaft . I couldn't believe how bad a the old one was. Im thinkin it wasn't replaced when my fatherinlaw did clutch 30 yrs ago. Im hoping to get it on the ground and rolling today. I want to breakin clutch before i put her to bed this winter.
found that one out the hard way got lazy didnt check it beforehand
Found a GM one they were pretty cheap dont know if they are still available.
That cheap one I couldnt hydraulic out for the life of me
Had to take a carbide bit and make one heck of a mess follow by chisel/hammer etc lol
somehow managed not to booger the crank up.
I've had a couple over the years that had to be drilled and chiseled out as you described by drilling a series of holes starting at the edge to weaken it and a couple hits with a chisel to collapse it . Be careful drilling not to damage the crank .