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Pulled the lower radiator hose to drain the coolant. This junk came out and a good amount of it. The hose is covered in it internally which also has a crack/slice in it. Time to get a new hose. My question is can any of the junk get in the engine and cause issues? It ran great before I pulled the hose off at around 160 degrees. Also, if anyone knows of an original hose I can get my hands on that would be great.
2025 C2 of the Year ('63 and '67) Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Me personally............change the hose, change out as much coolant as you can, run it for a year, and repeat next year. I would not flush the system as you don't know what you may raise hell with (radiator and / or heater core). I'm sure I do not need to tell you......keep that hose!
2025 c3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2025 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Modified
2024 C1 of the Year Winner - Modified
2023 C1 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2022 C1 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2020 C1 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2019 C1 of Year Finalist (performance mods)
2018 C1 of Year Finalist
It took awhile but we finally picked up the car today. The PO passed away last year, so I purchased it from his widow. He bought it in April 1972, after the original owner traded it in to the original dealer. It has a few issues to address before we take it to BG in Indy this June, to be judged for the first time. A lot to do before then.
Great article Tim! Gave me the thought process on behind what James said. I’m on 3rd application and it is sitting over night and until I get home from work tomorrow. 3 applications used a full bottle. Wondering if I put it on thick enough. I have another bottle coming but may hold off on using it. It’s not perfect and won’t be but don’t want it to great as PO said the car needs to flow for Bow Tie.
It took awhile but we finally picked up the car today. The PO passed away last year, so I purchased it from his widow. He bought it in April 1972, after the original owner traded it in to the original dealer. It has a few issues to address before we take it to BG in Indy this June, to be judged for the first time. A lot to do before then.
Love the red/red! Had my eye on a ‘71 that was born same month as myself but owner ended up keeping it.
2025 C2 of the Year ('63 and '67) Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Originally Posted by bearcatfan9
Great article Tim! Gave me the thought process on behind what James said. I’m on 3rd application and it is sitting over night and until I get home from work tomorrow. 3 applications used a full bottle. Wondering if I put it on thick enough. I have another bottle coming but may hold off on using it. It’s not perfect and won’t be but don’t want it to great as PO said the car needs to flow for Bow Tie.
Ironically, James and I were talking on the phone about paint this last week. In my own opinion, if you don't buff it, you'll be fine. Buffing will change the look of the paint. My experience with the #7, it just improves the depth and quality of color. It does feed the paint some vital oils and glazes that help the paint for when it comes time to buff. James is a much better authority on the subject than I, but that is just my .02.
On a different note, 3 applications on a Corvette for a bottle of #7 sounds about right to me. It's about what I used on my 67.
Found this code on the 4bb Holley over the weekend and the tech judging manual doesn't reference it or I overlooked it. Does anyone have an idea of what this code references? Thanks.
That is a Holley casting number not a number you can use for model information. On the air horn vertically stamped right next to your casting number would be the numbers needed for this Holley. Also could be on the side of the carb. This video should help you scroll down to the video.
Agree that,
Here is the correct ref list from my 71' LT-1. Location is front wall of the air horn stamped (hollow).
But true you also have a number (cast not stamped) on the top of the air intake right side (passenger) as yours. The one cast in relief on mine is 6R 3828 B.
Further, you can also have both the metering primary and secondary that have the correct numbers, respectively 6808 and 4919. I'm not sure it's jugged though.
@bearcatfan9 you got it ! List-4555 & 3972121 are correct numbers for camaro and corvette LT-1 / Z28.
1970 and 71 and I guess 72 Lt-1 are all 780cfm (which is far more than needed). By the way a Holley tech told me a 650cfm would be for road application much more adapted. But well who's gonna change a carb that's still working ?
Have a good day
@bearcatfan9 you got it ! List-4555 & 3972121 are correct numbers for camaro and corvette LT-1 / Z28.
1970 and 71 and I guess 72 Lt-1 are all 780cfm (which is far more than needed). By the way a Holley tech told me a 650cfm would be for road application much more adapted. But well who's gonna change a carb that's still working ?
Have a good day
Need to preserve the original belts. Is there a preferable way to remove the main belt? Doesn’t appear to be a way to loosen and remove. Read elsewhere to remove the fan and then remove the old belt and work the new belt on. Does the pulley move to angle at all?
One other question. Where can I get good quality belts? Napa? I don’t want the Chinese crap where the QC is deplorable. Want a good belt that is correct length.
Thanks!
Last edited by bearcatfan9; Jun 30, 2021 at 10:26 PM.
This thread has been really quiet recently so I'll add my resent purchase.
I sold my maroon '70 LT1 roadster a few years ago and I really missed that car and appreciate LT1s in general.
I recently was able to buy another 1970 LT1 and I am very happy that I did. It is a correctly done, frame off, older restoration of an all original low mileage, 42.5K, car. I am the 3rd owner. Number two owned it for over 30 years. The original owner saved all the paperwork and stopped driving it in 1979, storing it in his garage. The second owner achieved Bloomington survivor and 3 years later Bloomington Gold. He then had the restoration done and won 2 National NCRS top flights, scoring 98 points the second time. Since then he maintained it and kept in nearly the same cosmetic shape since the restoration. I'm finding some minor things to keep me busy, but it needs very little.
Besides the car, the original paperwork is really great. Everything was saved since new. Here's some pictures of the best items and a couple pictures of the car. I just started going through the car and cleaning.
Pulled the lower radiator hose to drain the coolant. This junk came out and a good amount of it. The hose is covered in it internally which also has a crack/slice in it. Time to get a new hose. My question is can any of the junk get in the engine and cause issues? It ran great before I pulled the hose off at around 160 degrees. Also, if anyone knows of an original hose I can get my hands on that would be great.
That's remnants of a radiator sealer such as BarsLeak..
