@firstgenaddict hi my friend.
Well the issue comes from the fact I've totaly serviced the carb, and reinstalled it.
I was in bad position to get the correct settings to have the engine start, despite richness, fuel bowls, accel pump.... and other default settings were set proprely.
Fortunately I have a very good and helpful friend located in the Bordeaux (Alain, he is in this forum and owns a red LT-1). Believe me he knows the LT-1's as if he was as gifted 1970 mechanic specialized in C3. he knows every inch of LT-1 by heart. So he is taking me step by step, out of this issue.
The main and first problem was that the spiral coil was too coiled up, and the rod couldn't get down to allow the choke plate to open a bit at cold start up.
Now he's helping me to check the clearance (pencil size as you mentionned it (0.35in exactly)) between the air horn wall and the choke plate, when the choke pull off (vacuum) is pulling at start up.

Hopefully with his help I'll make it work again properly. I'm in good hands.

Then as you suggested I'll finally bend the tab contacting the ivory stepped cam, to get the right rpm at idle speed. (If my memory's good increase is a clockwise/front bent)

But what makes me mad, is that there are so many videos tutorial for manual or electric chokes but nothing except old books and fading pictures for this very tricky and touchy choke.

I thank you very much anyway for your spontaneous and kind help.

After I'd have learned everything on it, I'd probably make a vid or a tutorial myself !

 

My 71, driven daily Drew, reach out again, lost your PM

 

The choke rod has a dog leg in it, to adjust the butterfly you have to bend the dog leg more OR less.

Here is the amount mine is open when the car is cold and the choke is set.

 

Do you plan on running those wheels? If you would like to sell I'm very interested

 

Future 71 LT1 owner here, in the next two weeks. Owner passed away last year and I knew him and the car. He bought it in 1972. Its not a low mile car, but very well preserved. It’s going to need tires, and it still has the original spare, which is a Firestone RWL. The purist in me says buy the Firestone’s but my preference is the Goodyear RWL, for ride and appearance. It’s never been judged before, but the tires don’t have to match the spare during judging. Price is not an issue. Coker makes the Firestone’s and Kelsey has the Goodyear which is made in the US. Opinions? Purist or not?

 

Looking forward to see it.....color, options? As to tires, IMHO, go with the Goodyears!

 

Thanks, I’m leaning that way. It’s a Red/Red coupe, PS, am/fm and heater. Don’t know about the rear gears yet. Hoping to have it ready for BG in June.

 

Looking forward to seeing that RED X 2, LT-1!!!!!

 

Any other Pics and info you can share on this Black 71 LS5 ...Thanks Jerry

 

@Geralds57 Congrats for your pruchase ! Concerning your question about tires. My opinion is that there is a personnal choice to do. Either you want the look and choose the tires you like what ever the original standard is, either you want to keep the original one. It's just a matter of taste.

Unless you are a show car addict I would prefer to ride in a car I'd like and that is safe.

@firstgenaddict Thank you for your pictures and explanations ! I'm out of this issue now

 

Here is a link to an album of photos.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bG2NzbbnvCghpxdH9


The goodyears are more expensive, although there is a guy who is a dealer named Rusty Smalls he goes by Rusted Tires - he is a Kelsey dealer and offers discounts often... for example I got 5 tires for the price of 4 and free shipping - so I think it was 1100 delivered for 5 tires. .
The repro GoodYears have 9 ribs as original and lose fewer points than the repro firestones which have 7 ribs VS 9 that the originals had.

 

Wow wish i knew that. I just got a set of 5 wide oval radials but I really love the Kelsey good years.

 

Looking for some help/advice on a fuel leak that I have. I just purchased the car 2 weeks ago and really haven't driven it other than up/down the street (2 miles total) since the original tires (1970) were still on it. The car is a '70 LT-1 with 9200 miles. Below are some pics. I haven't quite figured out the starting sequence and by flooding the carb and not driving it enough to burn off the fuel I am hoping that is why there is leaking fuel. When I start it I depress the gas pedal all the way and slowly let it up. Maybe I am putting too much fuel in the carb which is causing the issue. If that isn't the issue can someone identify the parts where there is drops of fuel? Maybe I need to get back under the car and try to further identify exactly where the leak is. I thought it was the circular part but after looking at the pictures there is a drop of fuel above the part and ready to fall. Really, 2 questions...1) Is my lack of experience with this car and my not understanding what the starting sequence should be - is that the cause, or 2) do I have an issue that is unrelated to my starting sequence? Thanks!

 

I don’t think that has anything to do with your starting procedure. It looks like the fuel line from the pump to carb is leaking at the pump. Someone has been wrenching on that in the past given how the nut is rounded off. I’d try tightening that fitting gently.

is this a Bow-Tie award car or one that you are considering getting Bow-Tie judged?

 

Thanks Mark. I'll jack it up again tomorrow and see if I can tighten that up. If that doesn't work do I need a new line or is there a gasket of some type inside the line that should be replaced?

The car is BG Survivor and NCRS TF. Another CF member thinks the car can get to Bow-Tie. I am going to show it. I just need to clean it up some but first figure out this fuel line thing. I just put new rims and BFGs on it so I can actually drive it occasionally. The dry-rotting on the unexposed side of the original tires was pretty bad.

 

If you are going to Bow-Tie you have to try and not touch anything on the car that you don’t have to. Judges even look for evidence of fasteners being removed etc. Most Bow-Tie before actually getting the car ready for the road! Good luck with it!

 

Buy a good set of flare wrenches, if they are at all sloppy when you put them on a fitting, find another brand.

Starting a LT1 - If my car has been sitting
I remove the air clearer lid and fill the fuel bowls using a squeeze bottle - through the vent tubes, until I hear it overflow into the carb throat, replace lid and wing nut
Get in - Press the accelerator once to set the cold choke - and hit the key - most of the time it fires up to fast idle at 2200 rpm.
If you pump the pedal and the engine dies, you have to reset the auto-divorced choke- with the engine off - depress the accelerator pedal, and hit it again, resist the temptation to pump it to keep it running.

Also Check around on the intake for any sign the carb may be leaking - the drivers front corner of the carb is where the accelerator pump is located and they are prone to rupture after long periods of non use.

 

Do NOT use an open end or, horror of horrors, an 'adjustable' wrench on that fitting. If you are really lucky, a little tightening will fix the drip. If you are pretty lucky, a new line from the fuel pump to carb will be the cure. If you have my kind of luck, you'll need to replace the pump, too. Nothing terribly expensive. And I confess, I'm not at all worried with respect to shows.

Whenever I start mine, assuming the engine is cold, I crank it until oil pressure is up as indicated by the gauge. That cranking pretty much fills the bowls, or so it seems. Only then I press the pedal once. Crank and VROOM!

Have fun!

 

I forgot... YOU MUST use a wrench or adjustable wrench to hold the block on the bottom of the fuel pump where the fitting screws in - the block is furnace brazed or silver soldered to the stamped steel cover, I have seen them flex and crack the joint. It happened on a 4300 mile LS6 Chevelle one customer purchased.

If you get 2 wrenches one on the block and one on the fitting, where there is a 20degree angle separating them you can use one hand to squeeze the wrenches together, This moves it very little and also ensures you can't really over torque it, you have a much more finite movement of squeezing your hand rather the pulling with your arm or wrist - this also ensures you are putting the same tension on the block as the fitting and there is no tension on the joint.

 

Hi !
I don't think neither that it comes from your starting procedure or from the carb itself.
Quite for sure it comes from the fuel line on the fuel pump nut.

These nuts on the fuel line (at carb and at fuel pump junction) can be an issue if rounded. If so, you'll get then no other solution than to change it.

As advised flare nuts wrench are good for that job. Be aware that the edge of these wrench are rounded themselves, so be sure you engage properly the head of the wrench where all faces are contacting 100% of the nut faces. When you'll see the head you'll understand...

You may round the nut more, if you do not engage it properly around the nut.

1/8 or may be less might be enough, depending on how tight you'll feel the nut is tightened.

Say a little prayer before you start. This is a random no man's land. 😉