MICHA -
DUNTOV is pretty difficult to achieve - there are only around 1500 cars which have ever achieved a Duntov award.
Whereas there are something like 20,000 Top Flight cars.

Duntov -
1. Flight judging FIRST -
2. Score 100% on the performance verification - which involves a road trip with the judge... they check everything - idle speed cold and idle speed hot... 4 barrel secondaries operation, acceleration to 90% of redline- braking without hands on wheel... cigarette lighter, belts, all lamps, I MEAN everything including ensuring your odometer keeps correct mileage and your clock keeps correct time.

3. 97% on Flight judging at the National NCRS show.

IF you do this all within the period of 3 years then you get your DUNTOV.

Mid Year -- my car scored 92.8 first time out... and I missed nearly 2 pct just for the battery - vent caps- oil filter - air filter and not having my keys with codes and envelope. I bought a NOS battery from 1971 - vent caps and correct oil and air filter which gave me a top flight in Atlanta... then I corrected a few more things and easily achieved the National Top Flight so I figured I would now go for the DUNTOV. -- your Daytona Yellow car should Duntov fairly easily.
Honestly I believe it is easier to Top Flight an unrestored car than a restored one... forexample - paint mismatch on a metallic is common and it will cost you at least 1 pct of the total especially if it is base clear - a few other things and you are done as far as hitting 97%.

 

Well done!

 

Here is the complete LT1 line up from the NCRS National show. LEFT to right --- 1971 Bridgehampton over Blue - 1971 Brandshatch over black - 1971 Warbonnet over black - 1972 Ontario Orange over Saddle AC Duntov winner - 1972 ZR1 - not sure the color as it appears to be incorrect.

 

great pics firstgen, thanks for posting and if you have any engine bay shots please post them. Always looking to improve on mine

 

Good grief, the pictures you take are already near perfection. Sometimes getting the exposure even is really difficult without multiple light sources. Have you tried using white panels to bounce some light into darker areas to even the light?

 

Found this pic of my ‘71 restoration. Thought worth sharing.

Note the crayon marking “CGZ” on the side of the engine block. It’s barely legible in the center above the spark plugs.

This was written so the assembly line knew to build the LT-1 engine internals.


CGZ marking

 

Dalton...
Thanks for the compliments... however if you learn your equipment and shoot tens of thousands of frames you will get the shot...
I learned that in ART school photography classes- we were required to submit 100 negs for every single finished photo submitted for grading... WHY? to get us used to shooting tons of frames, if you don't shoot it you will never have it and today with digital THERE IS NO EXCUSE...
Try bulk loading your own film cassettes and then developing negs.

Yes I have used a card to bounce light, works much better for smaller subjects... or I use an off camera flash for fill in.
Most of the time I just try to ensure the light is correct...
I shoot using a Canon 60D with a 70 200 F4L or a 17-55 2.8 gold ring, though a number were shot with the Canon 24mm 2.8 (pancake lens) 1/2" from mount ring to the tip of the I have a couple of other lenses as well...
However the 70-200 stays on my camera the majority of the time as snaps to focus and is dead sharp every time.

BRIT killer photo - do you see the mask which was over the exhaust ports and the spark plug holes while the engine was painted???

I will post some photos of my engine compartment, however is there anything you specifically want to see?
Out of 1351 Mechanical points possible I only missed about 30 points... Mostly condition points.

Missing ink stamps on my carb and AX code on choke cover (AX now done)- the ink stamp on the air filter element did not have the complete "best Way" slogan.
I have the wrong wiper washer connections on the washer pump--- they should be straight out the side.
I had the wrong washer bottle top - with the complete ridge on the bottom (changed to the correct one as soon as I got home)

 

Certainly ink stamps and labels to see what I have missing but also routing of electrical wires. I know they were pretty haphazard from the factory with little to no effort put in to hiding or at least installing in an orderly fashion but it's to me the one thing that really lets the under-the-hood finish down!

 

Your distributor should be clocked so the vacuum advance nipple comes out behind the plug wire stand...

Here are some photos... the fuel distribution block should be black - not plated - I have another original one and I am going to replace the one on my car..

 

A little Smog Sunday.

 

see your in NJ. Do you use someone to do you tuning?

 

I shoulda posted this. The big guy is the party from whom I purchased the car 43 years ago. His son, who wasn't 'around' back then, realized it and went looking for Dad.

 

After working like hell the entire Spring and half the summer to get the LT1 ready for the regionals and then the national NCRS show had me wanting to put it off til next year, however the late nights paid off - with a 96.3 top flight - (already corrected about 20 points worth of items)
The paint really has come along nicely and overall I really have no complaints considering it has never been restored.
Was out at a cruise in this weekend and shot these on the way home at an abandoned gas station and a local parking lot.
The last ones are some before and after of the paint...

 

Beautiful car^^^, and in a great color!!

 

Very nice! Very well done!

 

I need some help, along with my LT-1. Here is what is going on; My 71 LT-1 starts, idles, and drives just fine until I open it up on the freeway and the secondaries kick in just fine. It takes off like a rocket I exit the freeway and will stop at a light and the car coughs and sputters when I take off. It will get worse as time goes on. The idle will start getting very erratic and will die. What I have done is have had the Orig carb rebuilt twice (by someone that knows what they are doing), rebuilt the orig. disturber, new fuel pump, timing checked and rechecked. It does have the original coil, could this be the cause of the problems that I am experiencing? Can I use a regular coil with the original distributor? Steve

 

Check the heat riser make sure it’s not sticking closed. Boiling the gas.

 

I recall having that problem when I had my '71 LT-1. I believe I ended up putting a 1/4" thick insulator gasket under the carb which solved the problem.

Rich

 

Sounds just like LT1. First I had the clutch fan rebuilt at KIRKCONNELL CORVETTES - it continued spinning after shutting the hot engine off, happened again and determined the heat riser wasn't opening, percolating in the fuel bowl will not allow the accelerator pump to work nor allow fuel to flow through the jets... vaporizing.
Wire open the heat riser and see if it happens again. ... if not then you know that's the problem,
If I ever had to pull the intake I would put the cross over restriction plate in with the NOS gasket set I have.

 

I'll take a dose of solution, too.



In the meantime, this weekend we went to Pickety Place, in Mason, NH. They only serve lunch, three sittings a day. Very eclectic. The picture might have been better, but the parking was getting crowded, and my hoped for spot was taken by the time I got to it.

https://www.pickityplace.com/

It's at the end of a dirt road, off the side of a side road. Keep your eyes open for the signs.